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Lloyd90

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Posts posted by Lloyd90

  1. Depends how big an op it is on the dog.

     

    Put my old bitch down few months back, Vet wanted to take her back leg off at age 11, I told them wouldn't put her through such a huge op. Doubt she'd have made it through it anyways. 

     

    PTS, swift and painless, she sat in my arms whilst I blubbed like a little girl :( 

    • Like 4
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  2. 12 hours ago, leegreen said:

    FTCH   Pets4Homes, 2 words that shouldn't be in the same sentence.

     

    You'd be surprised. 

    Lots of pet/working homes don't want well bred dogs. I have seen lads with FTCH bred pups (especially springers) struggling to get the pups sold. 

     

    People breeding have put out the idea that a dog with a lot of red in the pedigree will be "too hot to handle" and everyone always gets told don't get a dog with too much red. 

     

    Yet all the top training books and blokes of wise all say get the best bred dog you can get. You'd think a well bred dog would evidence its trainability :D but it seems the people breeding dog's that are complete crap know more and tell people that a well bred dog will be no good. 

     

    There are a hell of a lot of "working" dogs I have seen that do little more than go for a walk in the countryside. 

    • Like 1
  3. You'd have more luck looking up which Cocker's are FTCH's are messaging the top kennels than asking on a random forum I am afraid. 

    If you don't have any contacts in the trialling words then I think you'll struggle. 

     

     

    However I think you'll find it easy enough to get a pup sired by a FTCH, anyone can take a bitch that's garbage to the latest FTCH stud dog and get him thrown over her for a few hundred quid. Try and find a bitch thats been well line bred to a good stud dog, where the bitch is also out of top lines. 

  4. Just watching this video - greyhound racing man, feeding his dog oats and milk in the morning.

    I always thought dogs' can't digest milk? and run best on fats for energy?

     

    Yet this guy appears to be (Im not into greyhound racing) a bit of a player in the greyhound racing game, so I would think it unlikely he would be doing it wrong? 

    He says 85% what you put into them, can't get it out if you don't put the right stuff in. 

     

    Dog gets 3+ miles a day walking and a good mixed variety of food.

     

    I am wondering if feeding similar would also benefit gundogs ... 

  5. Dave Lissett ones are probably the best ones I've ever seen.

     

    There's a cocker one called working cocker wildside, biggest load of shite I ever seen. Bloke has about 10 what look like show bred cockers, "hunting" about at a slow plod, about 5-6 feet in front of him. If the bird I was hunting was ever that close I would go over and kick it up myself. 

     

    Nice type of dogif  I suppose your on an estate with 10,000 birds in a woodland and you just want to bumble along bumping them up with your dog ignoring everyone of them. 

    Not really hunting IMO but there we go. 

  6. I would teach a really solid recall, teach the dog you are great fun to be with and do little play games of hunting and obedience for the first 6 months. Get the dog out and about but coming back on recall in lots of different places. 

     

    I wouldn't do loads and loads of retrieving, especially if you want the dog to go beating. A beating dog flushes game but hardly ever gets sent for a retrieve. I trained my springer like the books etc say, then after a flush he was always looking to go and retrieve that bird. 

     

    Easier to train a dog to flush and ignore the bird and carry on for the next flush. 

     

    Joe Irving - Gundogs, Their Learning Chain, is a good book and is a generic book you can use to train your dog to be a good beating dog. A labrador specific book might not be much use because traditionally a lab should walk at heel and only sent to retrieve fallen game. 

    • Like 3
  7. 16 minutes ago, socks said:

    I built block kennels and started off with the dogs in the open on beds but it soon became apparent that in the winter this isn’t nowhere near warm enough. They are now in boxes inside the block kennel. 

     

    How big are your block kennels mate?? Run size and sleeping box size? 

  8. 5 minutes ago, jessdale said:

    Great post. Anyone that trials/train a spaniel will tell you the best thing that slows down a dog is the dog working/listening to the whistle. A untrained dog will look fast but it’s totally untrained and who would want that ??? If Ireland was the “shangri la” for spaniels why do all the best triallers over there use the same dogs as the rest of the uk ??? The new stuff did not fall from the sky one day it was bred from the old stuff. 

     

    I have lots of mates over in the UK that are from Ireland as well. Dogs are not seen the same over there as they are in the UK from my experience. They are not seen as babies and kept in houses spoilt and all that crap. 

    I think a lot of those dogs in Ireland are in the kennel, come out to hunt, and then back in the kennel. 

     

     

    I know a LOT of people in the UK and more and more of them keeping their "working" dogs inside the house. I am not saying it means they're not workers, but a dog that's in the house has to be trained, have manners etc, otherwise it would do your head in. I am sure this takes the edge off them and dulls down their drive.

     

    Best way to take the drive out of a nutcase hunting dog, train it! Imagien dog comes out the kennel, hunts, has a retrieve, then back in the kennel, no mucking about nagging it to sit in its bed for 2-3 hours or any other nonsence. 

     

    When I move house I will be putting in kennels for sure. 

  9. On 28/11/2020 at 14:44, jessdale said:

    I know it’s each person’s own choice of what type of dog they want so I’m not having a go at anyone. If these big heavily marked springers were so good why are they as rare as hens teeth ? Forget trialling dogs for a minute. Surely everyone not into trialling would still have these big heavily marked springers if they were better ? The way I see it is the dogs around now are around because they do the job. Whether it is gundogs/terriers/lurchers/guard dogs it seems everyone wants the old stuff when the dogs we have now are out of the old stuff ! When did old became new ? , it’s the same stuff !

     

    Ai, if they were so much better then why develop the "new lines"... I know trial lad who had straws off one of the old top sires from the "old stuff" that was massive and apparently hunted like hell. 

    He also had a modern bred dog at same time running alongside it. 

     

    He sold off the old style bred pup, he said the modern pup not only hunted faster and had more style, it hunted just as hard, hit cover just as well and was easier to train to handle and retrieve. 

    I think people can look back at the "old type" and romanticise about them, without having to run them side by side against modern dogs. 

     

    I also ran my modern trial bred dog against two "old type" springers at a mock trial. One of them missed a retrieve, they reckon it 100% ran on no way the old type dog would have missed it. I ran my modern type dog on 5 yards and he picked the bird up sat on the floor where the dog had run over it several times ... 

     

    My modern trial bred dog is not an out and out cover basher, however I suspect some of that might be the way I brought him up. I have another trial bred pup coming on and he is looking better. I will seen what he is like by next season. 

     

    In future when I have kennels and space I'll try and get a dog over from Ireland from these apparent hunt all day without any stopping, smash f**k out of thick bramble for no reward at all type of line bred dogs. I would like to see how they compare. I notice on the Rough Shooting Ireland youtube video's the dog's absolutely do hunt like animals flat out in thick cover, but they're hardly trained, they're not trained to sit to flush, shot, or fall, they charge through cover, often at times with the guns sprinting down the field so they remain in range to get a shot at the bird. I wonder if it's more the fact that the training is just hunt, run in and pick and carry on that brings on that driven to hunt and go? 

    • Like 1
  10. 23 minutes ago, Wideboy said:

    The dogs soon realise that the game is inside the cover not outside, a few flushes and the penny drops. I never had a problem with them continuously hunting cover. 

     

    I've got a trial bred springer, he will smash the hardest cover in the world if he thinks there's game inside, but he won't go in for nothing. I reckon he missed game on days with poor scenting conditions when he can't smell if there's a bird inside cover or if the area of cover is massive. 

     

     

     

     

  11. On 13/11/2020 at 18:08, Wideboy said:

    The shite they have to go through all day. I’ve been in plenty of shoot in Scotland and a couple in England and none of them where anywhere like rough shooting in Ireland. Dogs have to hunt unforgiving cover over here for woodcock. It’s a lot of hunting for little return. On some days my gundogs can’t open their eyes as they are swollen near shut, their ears are cut to shreds and they can’t rest easy because the pain in their feet from thorns. I have only experienced this in Ireland. I worked my dogs more in UK. 
    The grouse moods are hard on a bitches nipples.

    No offence taken, this is what I’ve seen with my own two eyes. 

     

    They must be some dogs over in Ireland, just from what I seen hunting thick punishing cover with not a lot of reward.

    I do have to ask, what they do to train dogs to get inside and hunt that sort of cover, considering they are going in for hours on end with hardly any flush ... 

  12. I used a manual one recently to mine a Roe deer with some belly fat and it was a tight bother. 
     

    The meat came out more like mush than mince. 
     

    Id never get one. 
     

    Maybe an electronic one be better.

  13. Youd have more luck / better chance buying a Euromillions ticket... at least then if you win you can buy the land. 
     

    They don’t want to do any actual work, and looking into the insurance details etc etc of letting someone run about their land with a firearm will be the last thing they want to do. 

  14. I’d stick an auto feeder, or even two on it considering it looks a decent size. 
     

    Get the feeder to spray food out about an hour before dark, as duck (I believe) will flight in as it gets dark and feed overnight. 
     

    If you can push them off in the morning. 
    I’d leave it until October to establish, if you can get there regular to push them off in morning you should see how many are about. 
     

    Come October shoot it once a fortnight, don’t over shoot it as they’ll just leave. 
     

    Stick some wooden pallets up if you can to make a nice hide ??

  15. 39 minutes ago, skycat said:

    I'm 5'6" and if I walk fast my 24" lurchers have to trot to keep up, but if I walk slowly, they amble. So, it depends on how tall you are and how fast you walk as to whether or not the dog has to trot. I would say that a spaniel would have to trot if you are average height and walk fast. I'm guessing your'e just wanting to keep the dog ticking over in this warm weather: but warning: if the dog is overweight or very unfit, even half an hour's brisk trot will cause it to overheat in this weather, so I'd walk it very early morning or if not, then go somewhere where the dog can get in the water to cool down.


    He’s not overweight or really unfit but I don’t walk or run him on ground with nothing for hours on end, as I want him to run in trials ideally and he has to come out running. 
     

    If you run them too long or on ground with no game they can start to pace themselves and just plod about. 
     

    My mates done it with his two cockers, he takes them on big walks and walking holidays they might be out for 3-4 hours at times, when he brings his dog out to hunt now it just walks from cover to cover don’t run at all, so I am trying to avoid that. 
     

    In the season I imagine hunting on game for periods will add fitness but I would like to condition the dog before that to try and give him the best chances. 

  16. 14 hours ago, skycat said:

    Road walking is good for maintenance purposes, keeps feet etc toned, but it needs to be a brisk walking pace, so the dog is trotting at your side, rather than ambling along like a camel, which moves both legs on each side at the same time. That is a very energy saving pace and many larger or unfit or older dogs try to do it to save their joints.

    They need to be running alongside a bike or similar then really? 

  17. Does walking the dog for a long time on the lead say along the roads/pavements build fitness? 

    I am wanting to build fitness in my spaniel, however I don't want to hunt him endlessly as I know this can create a dog that just plods along when set off to hunt (my mates does it as it's used to being taken on 3-4 hours walks regularly). 

     

    I want to maintain that hunting intensity but also need the dog to be fit enough to run flat out for a good period of time without being knackered. I imagine when the season comes real hunting will help put that peak performance in, but until then I need something to get him conditioned to be ready for that. 

     

    thanks :) 

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