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tynoprime

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Everything posted by tynoprime

  1. How much are you looking to get for it? Roughly.
  2. The main problem for me is that my silencer is a pathetic universal one. That means that half of it is just to keep it ON the barrel. So I've only got 63mm from the end of the barrel (where the bullet enters the silencer) to when it exits. >.<
  3. I found out my silencer is actually the Parker Hale universal, so I'm even less impressed. Great though, I'll be doing that then. Sounds like it works a treat. Scotch Brite work ok? I've heard it mentioned many a time for suppressors.
  4. To quote something Buster321c said: Ok, essentially I've taken apart my frankly terrible excuse for a "sound moderator" made by SMK. The internals are a joke. It's literally one chamber - that being a piece of pipe with holes drilled in it, surrounded by foam, with sellotape around it. I aim to change this. Oh yes. Now, I hear that the Weihrauch sound mods are curlers. (as above) Is this true? And if so could you please take a few pictures of the internals, so I can make sure I'm getting the right thing. The internal size of the SMK silencer is 20mm, so if I get the go-ahead I'll
  5. take a look at this http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/index...howtopic=101742 or ask him to make you a stock. He does do some beautiful work, it has to be said. I think I'm going to get a real sense of acomplishment from making the stock myself. I'm actually making two side-by-side, incase on goes wrong, and if it doesn't I'll sell it ^^ The hardest part for me is getting the timber. Turkish Walnut is hard to get hold of, but is just as good as American which is 2x more expensive. I hear Black Cherry is good for stocks, so may try that. Then again I may do it in beech fir
  6. I also have a friend that may be interested - although would post be an option? As he lives down in Bristol.
  7. And is incredably ugly. S410k I'd say. Beautiful and accurate. It's my dream to one day own one after shooting my mate's one. I litterally got a chill down my spine as I cradled it.
  8. I thought that was more to do with the shot gun .. My appoligies if im wrong fella. what you are both describing is essentially the same thing continuing to aim at the target post shot, only difference in the two explanations is the type of gun one aiming shotgun the other a rifle atb They're both describing the same thing - regardless of rifle or shotgun - except breffni is talking about a moving target, maltenby/top gun a static one. Yes the moving target is the difference however you are essentially remaining in an aimed position with your weopn pointed at the target even
  9. Ok, so it looks like I don't need you after all. I've completed a scale drawing of the stock I intend to make - I've had to slightly redesign the stock to fit the QB78d, as the front end (from nose to where the trigger is) was alot longer on the MK3 (once I scaled it) than I needed, and the rear (butt to trigger) wasn't long enough. So here is my redesigned MK3 stock, to scale, which I'm going to print at work tomorrow onto a sheet of A1. This isn't intended to be amazing quality! I only need it as a rough guide, remember! And a comparison between the two:
  10. I thought that was more to do with the shot gun .. My appoligies if im wrong fella. what you are both describing is essentially the same thing continuing to aim at the target post shot, only difference in the two explanations is the type of gun one aiming shotgun the other a rifle atb They're both describing the same thing - regardless of rifle or shotgun - except breffni is talking about a moving target, maltenby/top gun a static one.
  11. Hi guys! My very first project; I'm making a custom stock for my QB78D that I aim to look very simular to the Daystate MK3 FTR's stock. I have access to my college's workshop with a band saw, cross-cut, etc. I'm in dire need of an owner with a tape measure to help me out - as I could try and work out the dimensions from the pictures of them (As I know from the daystate site it's 95 cm length in total, so I could try and work it out to scale) but that might end badly and would be an awful lot of effort. This is the stock I wish to accomplish: If anyone is willing I need the
  12. I havn't seen any that are specifically for the Gamo 610 but even so you do have options. 1. Get the barrel threaded to 1/2 inch male - this will allow you to use a vast majority of silencers on the market 2. Get a "Universal Silencer" - These slide over the barrel and tighten with either a grub screw or by hand (it's like a nut/bolt situation but with washers that compress and "grip" the barrel) bare in mind the linked one only fits 14.3 mm to 15 mm barrels. 3. Get an adapter. Again havn't seen one specifiacally for your gun, but measure the barrel and you can get one for a S400 o
  13. I shall risk sounding like a fool - give me optics and I'll rant, sound suppressors and I fall silent (mind the pun) - has anyone tried using something like rockwool as wadding? Or even a packed rockwool silencer with just a channel for the pellet and four or so chambers?
  14. That is what he meant. They've probably changed since Deker had one. Thanks for the posts guys - I think I'll get the Gold AO.
  15. Depends alot on what you're doing with it. If you're just plinking or shooting upto 30/40 yards, a fixed 6x32 would do. Or you could get a 3-9x40, but bear in mind scope quality. The cheap ones that come from china on eBay are pieces of crap that wouldn't hold a zero if you were firing a pea through a straw. I'd suggest the Nikko range, or a JSR scope - which has great optics for the money.
  16. Hi guys, I'm strongly tempted to go for a Nikko Stirling in my "Cheap AO for 10-30meter shooting" hunt I have a question. Is there any difference between the Nikko Stirling Gold Crown and the Nikko Stirling Mountmaster? The only difference I know of is the mounts and asthetics - but are the optics different? And if so, which one's got the better? Thanks in advance.
  17. Before even that, take the silencer off completely and try then. It sounds like the pellets are hitting the break, so take it off and see what your groupings are, then put it back on. Same problem?
  18. Couldn't have said it better myself. I use AA fields and Bisley Pest Control, not for the expansion but simply because in my rifle they're so accurate. Try as many as you can, different guns really do take likings to different pellets, so it's trial and error really.
  19. I have a fully tuned QB78 deluxe in .22, and as long as you're willing to tune it, it's a great rifle for the price. They only kick out about 7ft/p stock, but with the TR Robbs tuning kit it's chronoing at 11.8/11.9 with bisley pest. You can do some free tuning on it, which will improve it, and I can give you links if you need them, or you could buy the full TR Robbs kit, and fully tune it.
  20. tynoprime

    Scopes

    :ooks interesting. Hope you get on well with it.
  21. He's right you know, JSR offer brilliant scopes for the money. Also very odd - the glass is chinese... But it's clear. It's like the sky is falling down.
  22. tynoprime

    Scopes

    The SWAT's are fantastic scopes, had a chance to use my mates one and the only thing that beat it was my brothers Nikko Stirling Diamond . Let me know how you get on with the Hawke. Is the Nite-eye not a 30/30?
  23. Nothing works better than acouple of socks stuffed with sand ontop of each other
  24. NEVER put a rifle (firearm) scope on a springer, they're not designed to take the double recoil and vibration that a springer pumps out. Ensure you get an air-rifle scope, and get a good one if you don't mind paying abit more (JSR offer really, surprisingly for china, good optics for the price) a Leapers or an OLD Tasco. They're all around the £50 mark, so affordable but decent. Also it might be an idea to get a one-piece mount, as they don't pull at the scope as much and are designed with powerful springers in mind. I'd also suggest getting one with an AO (Ajustable Objective) so parrala
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