snareman
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Posts posted by snareman
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there is no problem about asking for wire , but for the humane factor use the proper rabbit snare wire , good snaremen on this site have repeatedly told certain individuals where to purchase quality rabbit snarewire , these individuals phone up and waste time asking knowing fullwell that they do not want to pay for good snares or wire , they would rather spend money other ways , but continually ask again and again where to get rabbit snarewire , once again for the thousands time don,t purchase picture wire , and some of these other thin cheap wire,s to try and snare with , use the proper stuff , 0.457 brass wire, make good six strand snares , and practice with them . cheap crap wire isn,t as pliable and snaps more readily , and the last thing thats needed is rabbits running around with broken snares on their necks, therefore try and work in a professional and more humane manner, rather than it being a cost cutting cheap excersize,Well said, but whats wrong with people wanting wire so they canj make their own snares mate ?Butch
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instead of playing around at snaring use proper snares , and get to it , and do it properly , to many on this site are kid on merchants , always wanting to know where to get the stuff , and when told where to get proper snares , they don,t want tp pay for them, then they go and buy cheap sh#te and wonder how they can,t get big kills of rabbits , remember we are dealing with animals here therefore the humane factor should always come first .Go to a craft shop and buy this it's copper coated steelwire.gerjan
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timeout, look at the drawing i,ve put up and the instructions are there also, its really a very simple process and only takes a few seconds to complete , hold the snare as its shown between the hands , sqeeze the loop inwards and work anti clockwise down round the loop , to your right hand .Ok i have sat for 2fuckin
hours following the pinned section about getting tension into a snare.No matter how hard i try i cant get it to spring back.Got the loop set fine and looks the part but when i push it up it wont spring back. 
Anyone know any wee tricks to get it to work? 
Timeout, You know how well a brand new snare sits up, perfect in every way. That's because the wire is straight. start at one end of the snare and with your first two fingers inside the loop and the thumb on the outside, gently go round the snare trying to remove the curve from it, one end to the other. Don't dent it just enough pressure to straighten it out. It works, good luck.
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steady, stick to the snaring lads
your manly body :kiss: :kiss: 
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moley , woodga even wanted george,s 6 drums along with his 6 that i,ve got for him, so i,m afraid you have no chance , i wouldn,t say he,s desperate or anything .
the real old scottish ruby snares were four strands of brass and two of bronze , copper is softer than bronze. i use a special kind of copper slightly thicker than the brass and stronger , i make a four strand snare using two of brass and two of copper , its as thick as a 6 strand brass wire very pliable , and strong, fast running and good for fencelines , and pegged snares , woodga and i have been using them for a few years , infact i have 6 drums lying here for woodga to collect on saturday when he comes up and 6 for geordie also.There was a topic on here about ruby snares some where,thats where i got the idea from.my ratio is 2 brass 1 copper my copper wire is a little thicker than the brassi might just have to pay woodga a visit after saturday
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ian b, four strand wires are okay throughout the summer not for heavy winter rabbits, yes rabbits do chew through baling twine on occasions , there is a way to help stop them doing it though , i have came across them sitting chewing the snare wire also , these things do happen on the snareline now and again, and foxes do pull the rabbits clean out of the snares when using breakaways , the breakaway snares also allow house cats to escape easily if accidently caught .When myself and pegangun were out last week checking snares, a rabbit had been caught in a peg snare, chewed through the twine and must of thought screw you I'm free, then ran 20yd up to the fenceline and into a fence snare
Just as a matter of interest does anyone use four strand wires,I've been using the four and the six strand, I got some four strand pegs of phil, just goes to show hes not the tightest man in the northern hempishere....
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i have snared coyotes out in canada, in some states , and provinces , they can weigh over 70 lbs. and can do some serious damage , to sheep and cattle , also house pets , they are also a danger to children playing outside, infaact one grabbed a small child a few days ago in america in the back garden , and the house maid had a tug of war with the bast#rd before it would let go . my mate and i snared 6 in two days at one farm as they were killing the ducks and hens through the day.I was talking to one of my customers who breeds American miniature horses, she told me she had heard some bad news from one of her friends that lives in Texas, she said that the fella in Texas gets troubled by coyotes killing livestock and off his ranch he has lost 20 odd miniature horses in 12 months, on this day he looked out of his window and saw a pack of coyotes round one of his horses, he ran outside with his rifle and downed two of them and the rest ran off, when he got over he found it was his stallion dead, it was a world champion and worth £45,000 -
had squirrels a few times while snaring along woodland , fields , and had hundreds in my mink snares over the years , caught a large dog mink in a pegged rabbit snare set at 6 1/2 inches high , the squirrels were caught at the same height in the pegged rabbit snares also.
any one had one of these in a snare?was shocked to see this bouncing about this morning -
that will do you peg and gun , less of the old, crack, you will fit over my knee a lot easier and quicker now lad, that your in training . big simon and wullie said hello.The older i get the less i want to kill but have to for pest control but when it comes to youngens ive always had a soft spot.Now adays i take great pleasure in teaching people how to trap and snare like old Snareman did for me many years ago.We all no the hay days of trapping have gone when a man could earn good money trapping fox and selling there pelts,like old Snareman did in the sixties and seventies.anyway good luck to all you young trappers and if you need any advice pm woodga or snareman because ime a miserable old bas...d
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the real old scottish ruby snares were four strands of brass and two of bronze , copper is softer than bronze. i use a special kind of copper slightly thicker than the brass and stronger , i make a four strand snare using two of brass and two of copper , its as thick as a 6 strand brass wire very pliable , and strong, fast running and good for fencelines , and pegged snares , woodga and i have been using them for a few years , infact i have 6 drums lying here for woodga to collect on saturday when he comes up and 6 for geordie also.There was a topic on here about ruby snares some where,thats where i got the idea from.my ratio is 2 brass 1 copper my copper wire is a little thicker than the brass -
you are getting there son, put 5 turns around the tealer shaftat the grip. then lay tealer flat and bevel grip or handle with a tap from the hammer , also tap the base of your tealer in so that it will enter into the ground easier , and never ever use high tensil wire , or you will be there for a week trying to make one. shape your loop better with the striking curve in the middle of the bottom of the loop , by the way i,m talking about your double tealers , not the single ones .forgot to say make tealer eyehole small so that the double knot can,t be pulled through , and the snare wire only needs to be turned around tealer shaft once.ive just knocked up afew snares on tealers both double and single tealers,the singles are made with a heavyduty ht wire and was a real bugger to bend,the other is whats called a double tealer and is made from a thinner guage wire,i am yet to attach the pegs and lines.
i shall set these early evening and with a bit of luck have a bunny breakfast!
thanks for looking!
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you are getting there son, put 5 turns around the tealer shaftat the grip. then lay tealer flat and bevel grip or handle with a tap from the hammer , also tap the base of your tealer in so that it will enter into the ground easier , and never ever use high tensil wire , or you will be there for a week trying to make one. shape your loop better with the striking curve in the middle of the bottom of the loop , by the way i,m talking about your double tealers , not the single ones .ive just knocked up afew snares on tealers both double and single tealers,the singles are made with a heavyduty ht wire and was a real bugger to bend,the other is whats called a double tealer and is made from a thinner guage wire,i am yet to attach the pegs and lines.i shall set these early evening and with a bit of luck have a bunny breakfast!
thanks for looking!
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rolfe is that the field you are going to set with rabbit wires , you will have to set them up , and catch that rascal firstJust a quick picture i took yesterday of a fox run just out from the fence line. She has just started running the fence line to check for snared rabbits and also to drink from the water trough at the end of the hedge. I have watched her go that way about three times now. Note the almost dead straight line and narrowness of run with distinct lack of beats.......that is one of the difference between a rabbit run and a fox run for anybody who is unsure. Thats my old Lurcher working in the background -
rolfe is there no lugs on the back of these kanias now , as the very first ones that i was sent from calvin kania in canada have the lugs at the back , you just turn them up and put a nail through them , thats how they are used in canada , this holds them to the tree and eliminates any additions , another good point about the lugs are when trapping mink , if you bend a wire hoop and push the legs through the lugs this stabilizes the trap to the ground and stops foxes rolling the trap around with the dead mink , this is why i used the wire hoop as i nearly lost a trap in deep water due to a fox, that fox taught me a lesson and saved me a lot of money , otherwise i would have thought that the trap had been stolen and been none the wiser .Just thought i would show my portable kania set-up i use to control the greys in woodland areas. There are NO reds in my area......so i can safely use spring traps........If you live in an area that has red and grey squirrels then only cages should be used for obvious reasons.By bolting the Kania to a board, i can move the trap around the woods to favourite trees as and when required, each tree having a nail pre-fixed to hang the trap on. It also makes it so much easier to set the trap....as it can be lifted down and set whilst on the floor. Note.......the wire mesh fitted to the lower half of the board to make it easier for the squirrel to enter the trap.
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thats a quality reel lad, ive got the old metal mitchel 300 that i brought back from canada in 1968, and its still as good as the day i bought it.put a pic up , bob nets show how you put the hook on
Here you go mate some pics, you take the spool off and bolt in a block of wood with a hook on, this reel is 1 turn of the handle equals 6 rotations of the spool, i find 10 turns of the handle makes me a decent wire.
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these small winders have been around for a lot of years , i gave one to woodga and peg and gun, infact you will see woodga making snares with it on his dvd. these are better than a cordless drill as there is no waste .also you can control the firmness of the wire better.ive just started making snares,i successfully made 20 this afternoon and have sited them on some hedrow runs,i only put 6 out for a first attempt. anyhow a while back i aquired a fab bit of kit for twistingthe wires together,i had seen one on a snare making dvd,originally it was a hand crank bench grinder,my ol man recons circa 1900,with a bit of a tinker i attatched a cup hook on the shaft ,it has a ratio of 11 : 1 and i turn it 4 times per snare.anyone else use one of these?
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stubby, is it me or is it the way that the photo has been taken , it looks as if you have set the snare in between the beats, also there is a bad fault the way that the snare is set , pm, me and i,ll explain it to you ,Nice one stubby.........I prefer a figure 4 tealer, just find them a bit steadier........buts thats just me.Hope you remembered to make your marker pins as well
Try snaring on very short grass.........it makes you study the ground for the beats a lot more........at least very amature fellas like me it does.
Good fun...........
You been on that field by the round-a-bout yet?.........its fecking lifting with rabbits.
well, the new permission I have is a football pitch, so yup, the grass is kept short
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remember and not buy that picture wire sh#t , why don,t you just buy 20 pro. snares from geordie , and a hundred eyelets . if you buy brass wire now it will cost a fortune , plus vat plus postage .Hi Grebb ; type in www.gameandcountry.co.uk ; brass eyelets/100/ £3.82 ~ brass wire £81.08 ; do not know how much p+p or VAT ? hope this has helped you? best regards Steveyep great help thanks very much..
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MAKE SURE THAT YOU USE A GOOD NOOSE SIZE TEN INCHES , AS A SMALL NOOSE CAUSES AVOIDANCE.Could someone give me details on snaring foxes in the tramlines (wheel ruts) of a field of rape?It is very effective and very easy - use the snare conventionally set at about 12" high as he will have his head up and anchor using the earth anchors (pinned post at the top of this forum)
OTC
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ditchy, did you not ask for your expenses, for your consultation in his yard .
just what i was thinking :friends: 
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woodga, his phone must be broken.ok ian where,s phill about time he got back into things look forward to seeing a few pictures tomorrow -
a pegged rabbit snare is a quick set snare it only takes seconds , the ones i saw are the usual type shop bought crap , that are always advertised for sale telling every one that they are professional snares , why do you think t.hat all the pro. trappers wouldn,t give them a second glance , the people who say that these type of snares are professional are the type who have never set a rabbit snare or has ever seen a big mornings kill of snared rabbits in their life . these short twined snares are made for maximum profit and to catch the amateurs and school boys who don,t know any better . and as i have said a thousand times who the hell needs twine on a snare to set on a fence , and who the hell needs or wants 8 or 10 strand snares , they are like tow rope , the difference between my snares and the latter are like a whippet and a fat labrador running , waken up, we have been indoctrinated by authors for almost a century writing books and in magazines telling us to set with tiny nooses and four fingers of the ground between the beats crap, also to set extra snares to compensate for misses , which is pure sh#t , by people who couldn,t do it them selves , no wonder half the country couldn,t catch large numbers of rabbits in snares , hunting life the no one site shows people how to set snares properly everything is there for you to follow , showing the proper placement and heights of the snares , also professional snares . rant over, get to it.I wonder if its Pat the Warrener who is selling these? -
why don,t you purchase some large bodygrip traps such as 280,s or 330,s from usa, the snare shop. bait the traps and put salt on the bait as porky,s love it , because they chew the handles on shovels spades etc, to get at the salt from your sweat , also set their runs , these large traps will kill quickly.Hello Everybody,My farm is full of porcupines. They damage our plants and defect our irrigation system.
Can anyone help me on how to trap them? What kind of a trap can I use and what kind of a bait to use in order to attrackt the porcupine into the trap.
I hope to hear from you.
Cheers,
Faris
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the mark up on some of these lamps are over fifty quid , depending on where its purchased , if thats not pure greed what is . my mate got sent a trade catalogue by mistake thats how i found out , i would not entertain them , better sending for all your gear to the usa .a guy who is top class in electronics , was saying he could make these electonic locators for a few quid , and we are charged over a hundred . at least dick turpin had the courtesy to wear a mask when he robbed you.they are good lamps but are vastly overpriced , the same with the batteries , like everything connected to fieldsports in this country we are robbed to death , the two ive got , one is a 12 volt 10 amp, and 12 volt 7 amp , you will get them for a tenner from guys that work with alarm systems , it beats paying about 40 quid for them .All true
I was in a spot yesterday so I had to fork out 75 Euro for an 18 amp battery. Still, it was worth it with the result I got, but like you say SM we get rightly screwed on prices.
Knife
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