lamping foxes

[dickyboy 1]

7mm exit pupil refers to the beam of light coming through the scope, making the exit pupil bigger just means theres light you don't see, the scope tube and lenses affect the quality of the light so a duller light is actually coming through the scope not less light as is commonly stated

 

 

Example a 6x42 crap scope with 25mm tube still has a 7mm exit pupil but as the lenses are not perfectly clear they remove some of the colours of the light spectrum from the 7mm beam of light, much lke putting a red, blue and yellow filter over the front of the scope..........still got 7mm of light but very dark

 

A very expensive or high quality and therefore clearer glass removes less of the light coming through

 

the scope body would only effect the light if less than 7mm.........although the bigger the scope tube the less the light has to bend creating less distortion!

 

a 3x60 crap scope lets out a 20mm exit pupil of crap/dull light you will still only see the middle 7mm of crap light

[Deker 3,491]

7mm exit pupil refers to the beam of light coming through the scope, making the exit pupil bigger just means theres light you don't see, the scope tube and lenses affect the quality of the light so a duller light is actually coming through the scope not less light as is commonly stated

 

 

Example a 6x42 crap scope with 25mm tube still has a 7mm exit pupil but as the lenses are not perfectly clear they remove some of the colours of the light spectrum from the 7mm beam of light, much lke putting a red, blue and yellow filter over the front of the scope..........still got 7mm of light but very dark

 

A very expensive or high quality and therefore clearer glass removes less of the light coming through

 

the scope body would only effect the light if less than 7mm.........although the bigger the scope tube the less the light has to bend creating less distortion!

 

a 3x60 crap scope lets out a 20mm exit pupil of crap/dull light you will still only see the middle 7mm of crap light

 

 

 

Cheers for that...I get the idea and have known about this ratio business for years, but to be honest, never thought about it, or realised it had anything to do with eye pupil.

[SNAP SHOT 194]

7mm exit pupil refers to the beam of light coming through the scope, making the exit pupil bigger just means theres light you don't see, the scope tube and lenses affect the quality of the light so a duller light is actually coming through the scope not less light as is commonly stated

 

 

Example a 6x42 crap scope with 25mm tube still has a 7mm exit pupil but as the lenses are not perfectly clear they remove some of the colours of the light spectrum from the 7mm beam of light, much lke putting a red, blue and yellow filter over the front of the scope..........still got 7mm of light but very dark

 

A very expensive or high quality and therefore clearer glass removes less of the light coming through

 

the scope body would only effect the light if less than 7mm.........although the bigger the scope tube the less the light has to bend creating less distortion!

 

a 3x60 crap scope lets out a 20mm exit pupil of crap/dull light you will still only see the middle 7mm of crap light

 

 

 

Cheers for that...I get the idea and have known about this ratio business for years, but to be honest, never thought about it, or realised it had anything to do with eye pupil.

 

 

7mm pupil is just the average pupil size also the human pupil can be anywhere from 4mm to 7mm depending on the person...............the bigger the ocular size or objective or tube has no impact becaause the human eye cannot procees it, for example infra red its in the spectrum but we simply cannot see it............and not a problem deker..............hope this helped.......

[smasher 1,055]

This is my understanding of light gathering. First thing is that fixed magnification scopes will pull in light better than variable magnification scopes. How much better I do not know. Personally I like the options a variable scope gives me. You'll see fixed magnification scopes set at 6x42, 7x50, 8x56. Those are the best light gathering settings, a lot of it is to do with your eyes ability to use a certain amount of light in darkness.

 

Anyhow, I usually have my scopes set at 8x. The reason for that is my foxing scope has a 56mm objective lens so 8x56 is optimal for it, though it may be less than 8x for variable but I am not really sure on that, so I leave it at 8x. Another reason I have it set at 8x instead of changing it a lot is when I look at foxes at different rangers I have a better idea of how far away they are, seeing as most of my experience now is going on a basis of 8x magnification. (I call that the Dougal factor, he's not small, he's farrrrr away....)

 

I'll sometimes crank up the magnification for longer shots but on a fox under 180 yards I don't usually bother to be honest, as I always go for heart/lung shots and not head shots.

 

So first thing I would suggest you do is look at the objective lens of your scope, if it's 50mm I would suggest you set your magnification at 7x and so on. I used to know the formulation for finding out the most usuable light and scope setting etc but I've forgotten it. Low magnification will give you a better field of view, but it does not necessarily follow that the lowest setting will give you a brighter image as your eye simply may not be able to use that much light. Saying that, it's a matter of personal choice which you will prefer As long as you can consistantly hit and kill that fox cleanly then whatever setting you pick will be right for you

 

Sorry if that's a bit convoluted and hard to follow, I just started typing.

 

 

johns right, the most usable ammount of light to the human eye is 7mm this is why 6x42, 8x56 etc are good because you divide the objective by the mag and in both these cases you get the magic 7mm exit pupil, as you crank up the mag on a variable scope you make the exit pupil smaller and you start to lose clarity and light. hope this helps. i use an 8x56 schmidt by the way great scope no muckin about with mag.

 

alan.

Thats very interesting to know,does this apply to day time shooting also or would there be enough light availible in this situation,or is it the case that by dividing the objective by the mag that will give yiu the best clarity for the scope you are using?

[Guest JohnGalway]

Thats very interesting to know,does this apply to day time shooting also or would there be enough light availible in this situation,or is it the case that by dividing the objective by the mag that will give yiu the best clarity for the scope you are using?

 

Daylight won't matter as much. In daylight you're more likely to notice things like clarity of the scope, differences in colour through different scopes, how sharp the image is or isn't etc. As you move up in magnification I'm sure it does get a little darker but certainly not to the point where you can't see what you're shooting at. The only experience I have of rubbish daytime glass is a cheap spotting scope I got in Aldi or Lidl, it's 20-60x60 I think. 20x is alright, 40x gets darker and 60x is darker still.

 

Really good glass has more aspects to it than being discussed here. How it's made, what coatings are on the lenses etc. But the real real high quality scopes do come with a price to match Saying that, if you do splurge out on top of the range glass then you'll have it for life pretty much. The best optics will retain their high prices even in the second hand market. When there's a constant demand, and more importantly a demand with a track record, for certain optics then usually there's a very good reason for that. In a word, quality.

[snapper5 0]

Really interesting thread guys. You can learn so much hanging around here.

 

S