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Photon NV, and idiots guide please

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11 hours ago, IanB said:

I was told 2 weeks ago theres a 6month back order wait on the RT models and still a 3 month back order wait on the older XT models..

That's a bit of a wait.....have you anything else good for rabbits?? Same kind of money or are you better of waiting for the photon??

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I would buy a Ward 800 instead from nightvisionstore, if you dont want to wait, more money but more versatile.

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On 28/01/2018 at 00:01, IanB said:

You may have missed the boat with the best doublers lads. They have discontinued the pulsar lens that increased mag, purely down to the fact they don't want people screwing them onto the front of photons.

They were the best option, directly screwed into the front, you may find someone with them in stock, but they have increased in price dramatically because people know you cannot get them anymore...

For longer range shooting they do improve the image, the downside your field of view is badly reduced..

Spot on, looks like very small supply left of these if any, I'm thinking the Extreme route may be an option? But again its a bit of a minefield with having to source an appropriate lens and then getting an adaptor made. By all accounts, this route seems to have the best result in terms of clarity. I'm digging into how and where now...  :-(

Edited by Lamp_Shy

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I would avoid this extreme conversion the camera lenses used are very delicate and the internals and wear in the focus mechanism can cause all sorts of point of impact shifts.

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On 30/01/2018 at 01:24, IanB said:

I would avoid this extreme conversion the camera lenses used are very delicate and the internals and wear in the focus mechanism can cause all sorts of point of impact shifts.

I hear you mate,  and can understand that completely, there is an awful lot of folk going the extreme way though;



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Yes it was popular, tried it myself with specialist machined mount, the camera lenses always shift POI, better with a proper Pulsar lens for a doubler.

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Alas mate, they're like hens teeth, as you said earlier. Seen one the other day which sold for £151 plus £10 postage, which is a rip off.

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On 27/01/2018 at 17:39, villaman said:



Lets assume that we are all idiots for the purpose of setting up our Yukon Photon.
Some will be able to do it in 5 mins and some may take an hour  but either way the results are the same and improve your Photon.
You can set any model of Photon using this method.
The simple question is,,,, Why do some photons run out of windage or elevation or even both and need shimming or expensive adjustable mounts and others don't?
Answer,,, They are just not set up properly from the factory and the quality control does not seem to exist for your £400 purchase. 
If you are lucky enough to own 2 or 3 photons then it would become evident to you as none of the photons will have the same impact point on the same rifle compared to a normal glass lens scope, ie just say your Photon is low and left before you run out of adjustment for instance,, If you put on another photon it may be high and right before you run out of adjustment hence the crap quality of each photons assembly.
To rectify any problems will probably invalidate your warranty but as I said it`s a simple procedure and you won`t be able to break anything if you try it or why not just simply send it back for a refund. Let`s face it if the crosshairs wont adjust far enough then what else can you do apart from send it back and tell Yukon the truth about how crap there assembly team are and should pull their bloody finger out for the price of the unit. 
You would certainly send your Leupold back if it had the same problem wouldn`t you.
Anyway, You`r guarantee has run out or you bought it second hand because the last bloke couldn`t zero it either or whatever so why not have a go, You have nothing to lose except around £80.00 if you want to go down the adjustable mount route. It`s a lot easier to set up your photon than it is adjustable mounts.
The tools you need if you want to adjust your Photon should already be in your tool box
(1) Allen key set,,,, To mount or remove your scope 

(2) A 2.5mm hex bit. Star bit, torque bit, Whatever you wish to call it but not an allen  key for the C Clamp. They are a totally different tool.
Sorry to treat you as a numpty at this early stage but the items I have had to repair because people don't realize the difference between an allen key and a torque key are countless and only result in rounding out the head of the bolt trying to be undone 
You may have to cut a 2.5mm Star Bit down to a manageable length depending on your mounting system which is the only hard thing to do.
(3) A smear of glue if you really want to.
(4) A plain old laser bore sighter.
I take it you have a bore sighter and if not you should always have one for each large caliber rifle you have.
Breech bore sighters for centre fire are easiest and more accurate to adjust your photon but the ones you put in the end of your barrel for your air rifles will do almost as good and will get you in the ball park.
Once you load your bore sight laser in your rifle breech or barrel and aim the rifle then the laser dot will always be your impact point obviously because that's where your barrel is pointing so let`s just say aim at 50yds (Can be shorter for air rifle setup or longer for your full bore) and when you put a Photon on your rifle you will adjust the crosshair to the laser dot you see in the photon screen hence you have zeroed your scope without firing a single shot and it saves a lot of ammo. for the big bore users.
If you run out of adjustment on either of the turrets then you will need to adjust your photon as explained below to how it should have been set before it left the factory and before they took your hard earned money.

.The air rifle bore sighter that you put in the end of your barrel are cheap and less accurate than a breech loaded guide,,, When you switch your photon on and have adjusted the crosshair to the laser dot if you rotate the laser in the end of the barrel a couple of turns you will see the laser dot rotate in a small circle round your crosshair, This is because they are rarely straight but because you have already centralised your crosshair beforehand which I will explain in a moment you will have plenty of adjustment on your turrets.

, Now with your photon on or off the rifle count the clicks on your turret from one end to the other and if its 180 clicks then return it 90 clicks so you should be in the middle and the same for the other turret. the basic idea is to get your crosshair in the tube pretty central so you have the ultimate adjustment in all directions when you start...Now you know your scope is pretty central so you can add your bore sighter and continue. Same for your XT except your using your button to get it central.

Next, With your photon mounted on your rifle. loosen the scope ring screws slightly so you can slide your scope and not the mounts forward so you can access the four screws holding two C clamps in front of your front mount, There is not much room normally hence the cut down star key. when you have this position where you can get to the screws then nip up your scope mounts, You can lightly loosen the c clamp with your photon off the rifle if you prefer then put it back on for alignment with your laser, All depends on your mounts and if you can get to at least a couple of the c clamp screws to tighten them after aligning with your bore sight.
The four screws on the Yukon C clamp have a varnish or wax coating in the head that may need to be removed and this can be done at any time during the procedure. Preferably off the rifle as its easier and as you can see in the photo that the screws on the Yukon c clamp look like they need allen keys, This is where the damage occurs if you use an allen key.
Loosen the four screws slightly on the c clamp and the whole front of the unit will become slightly moveable with very little effort. I use a star bit and small spanner to open the screws
If it does not move then there may be a smear of glue between the unit and tube that you will break with a tad more effort, It`s more of a seal than a glue and isn`t very adhesive at all and some Photons have it and some don’t. Again its quality control. If you want to add a smear of glue or a seal at a later date then it`s just the same instructions you have just done to get this far.  
You don't have to remove the screws completely unless you want to have a peep inside where the front of the unit just comes away from the tube and there is a ribbon strip connecting the two halves. 
The front unit, Tube and c clamp are like a ball and socket so can be moved slightly and there is enough movement to look through your photon when turned on and align your crosshair with the laser from your bore sighter then re tighten the four screws while holding the front of the unit in place.  
You can undo the screws further and use a smear of none fast setting glue on the front of the tube before it butts up against the front housing at this phase if you so wish before you tighten the screws and cleaned off any residue after you have moved your housing into place and locked the screws up. Like i say, Some have it and some don`t.
It may take a few attempts the first time you try it until your happy, Take`s me five mins from start to finish it`s that easy if your screws are accessible but i have been doing this since the Photons came out so don't be disheartened if it takes an hour as its your first time. It`s not a race and doesn't have to be absolutely spot on the centre crosshair dot as you have the ultimate reticule adjustment to play with later on, But if you can get it on the crosshair dot then even better and well done. 
When your happy and the four hex screws all nipped up tight you can then return your scope toi the usual settings in your mount and your good to go and adjust your crosshair a final time with your laser as you have just moved your scope back an inch or so. You have plenty of reticule adjustment to get it near enough. 
Looks a long winded explanation but way easier to do than write out. Main thing is the proper star key so you don't mark or round out the 4 bolts on the c clamp and a bore sighter (Best you can afford but a 20 quider will do,,,,




Thought I'd just add again to this excellent summary: 

I'm moving the Photon this weekend to my new rifle, as in preparation, I had to buy a set of star bit drivers. The one for the Photon C clamp is T10, which I've already tried and it loosens the screw easily.

As VM has said, this is most definately the way to go rather than shimming the Rear mount. I'll update when the deed is done.


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