Acuspell 329 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 It is actually quite easy. You will need: A pencil and a notepad Target set up with a small cross drawn on it that you can see at 45 yards (50? yards) A good rest suitable for the rifle - so soft for a recoiling rifle. More of a hand steady than a rifle rest. A set up zeroed for 30 yards (30 for now, you can tweak it later to suit your needs - this will work for 177, 20 or 22) At 30 yards fire a group of 3 at the taarget. You should clover leaf on the centre of the cross. Now try from 40 yards. Either move the target, or your shooting stand. Place the cross hair on the cross of the target and shoot the group. With the cross hair on the target cross, note where on your reticle the pellet hole coincides. THAT is your aim point for that distance. WRITE IT DOWN. Repeat for each of the other ranges. Armed with that information you might want to tweek your zero a little to make better use of the point blank range ability of your outfit and ammo combination. Point blank range means the range at which you can hold dead on and be within the set liit of error you decide. Point blank range will differ from one quarry to another - imagine shooting down a tube of a certain diameter (your acceptable error, what is that 1/2"? 1"?) On a rabbit possibly 1" ring will be a certain kill, on a pigen that acceptable error is only 1/2", whihc is why PBR changes with the quarry, on a deer the acceptable error could be as much as 4" on a large red, which gives a tube of 8" to shoot down. The point blank range is th elength of the "tube" that you can shoot down without touching the sides. In the case of our pigeon, 1/2" either way gives a tube diameter of 1". On the rabbit the acceptable error being 1" (so we said for purposes of this exercise) so the "tube" is 2" diameter - the range has just extended without changing zero. Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted January 26, 2012 Report Share Posted January 26, 2012 It is actually quite easy. You will need: A pencil and a notepad Target set up with a small cross drawn on it that you can see at 45 yards (50? yards) A good rest suitable for the rifle - so soft for a recoiling rifle. More of a hand steady than a rifle rest. A set up zeroed for 30 yards (30 for now, you can tweak it later to suit your needs - this will work for 177, 20 or 22) At 30 yards fire a group of 3 at the taarget. You should clover leaf on the centre of the cross. Now try from 40 yards. Either move the target, or your shooting stand. Place the cross hair on the cross of the target and shoot the group. With the cross hair on the target cross, note where on your reticle the pellet hole coincides. THAT is your aim point for that distance. WRITE IT DOWN. Repeat for each of the other ranges. Armed with that information you might want to tweek your zero a little to make better use of the point blank range ability of your outfit and ammo combination. Point blank range means the range at which you can hold dead on and be within the set liit of error you decide. Point blank range will differ from one quarry to another - imagine shooting down a tube of a certain diameter (your acceptable error, what is that 1/2"? 1"?) On a rabbit possibly 1" ring will be a certain kill, on a pigen that acceptable error is only 1/2", whihc is why PBR changes with the quarry, on a deer the acceptable error could be as much as 4" on a large red, which gives a tube of 8" to shoot down. The point blank range is th elength of the "tube" that you can shoot down without touching the sides. In the case of our pigeon, 1/2" either way gives a tube diameter of 1". On the rabbit the acceptable error being 1" (so we said for purposes of this exercise) so the "tube" is 2" diameter - the range has just extended without changing zero. is that the same as adjusting tragectry to fit the ret tidier? so more distance is inbewtween a dot up and say 2 or 2 1/2 dots down? or just the 'kill zone' that chairgun puts on as two paralel straight lines? always intrested in ways and methods. Quote Link to post
nangell 50 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 method i use is prity quick and simple,i have a ball of string which has a knot tide every 5 mtrs ranging from 5 to 50 mtrs ,i also draw a picture of the reticle on a peice of card,lay the string out and then zero gun at point that suits, lets just say 25mtrs ,then move the target to each knot i have tied a make a referance to the drawing ,once i done that i stick a peice of card in the back of my flip up lense cap here's acouple of pics to help explain 1 Quote Link to post
Acuspell 329 Posted January 27, 2012 Report Share Posted January 27, 2012 The chairgun two lines thing - that is the top and bottom of th etube, if you like. Don't forget, your error is in 3 planes, not just 2. You can have some error sideways and still be in the kill zone - the kill zone is a circle of your own choice in size. A circle on a pigeon kill zone is smaller than the one on a rabbit - but whatever size it is, imagine that circle extending back to the rifle as a tube. Point blank range is the length of tube that you can shoot down by holding dead on - for example, a .177 sighted in at 33 meters and an acceptable kill zone of 1" would relate (roughly) to a point blank range of about 23 metres to 36 metres and again another short "tube" at about 12 metres to 15 metres where the pellet is within 1" of th eline of sight - but on the upward section of the arc. Bigger animal has a bigger kill zone, so the error can be extended out a bit, hence my suggestion of 1/2" for a pigeon and 1" for a rabbit and 4" for red deer. These are not hard and fast, just to illustrate the point. Quote Link to post
robwelsh 354 Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 ..so bottom line is, is practice your arse off, learn what equiptment you have at diffrent ranges, with the methods been given, an practice some more lol...i used to be a crackin shot, with a springer and normal scopes...iv now got a pcp and AO scopes (never used them before) and im shockin, i thought a pcp would enhance my shots, but im finding it more difficult than a springer...believe it or not. whenever i take a shot, i think i have to compensate for recoil...i suppose its me adjusting to a new gun too thats making it tricky...and when i say im shockin...im not that bad, but worse than i was lol..at 30yrds, zeroing point, i can hit the target allday long...its at diffrent distances im finding hard, where i never used too..abit mad i think, might be me being lazy because i have a PCP and not realising, im not sure, but definately have to work on it Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 ..so bottom line is, is practice your arse off, learn what equiptment you have at diffrent ranges, with the methods been given, an practice some more lol...i used to be a crackin shot, with a springer and normal scopes...iv now got a pcp and AO scopes (never used them before) and im shockin, i thought a pcp would enhance my shots, but im finding it more difficult than a springer...believe it or not. whenever i take a shot, i think i have to compensate for recoil...i suppose its me adjusting to a new gun too thats making it tricky...and when i say im shockin...im not that bad, but worse than i was lol..at 30yrds, zeroing point, i can hit the target allday long...its at diffrent distances im finding hard, where i never used too..abit mad i think, might be me being lazy because i have a PCP and not realising, im not sure, but definately have to work on it yes its adjusting to no recoil... try 'dabbing a tiney wet brush gently on the target'...lol, seriosly, thats what the duference is like, as aposed to hitting it with a broom head of paint lol. or wording it diferently, gently touch the silencer at/onto the target. yeh, it's a bit wet lettice at this stage but when you suss that bit you'll find shooting through again becomes really deadly. Quote Link to post
davyt63 1,845 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 ..so bottom line is, is practice your arse off, learn what equiptment you have at diffrent ranges, with the methods been given, an practice some more lol...i used to be a crackin shot, with a springer and normal scopes...iv now got a pcp and AO scopes (never used them before) and im shockin, i thought a pcp would enhance my shots, but im finding it more difficult than a springer...believe it or not. whenever i take a shot, i think i have to compensate for recoil...i suppose its me adjusting to a new gun too thats making it tricky...and when i say im shockin...im not that bad, but worse than i was lol..at 30yrds, zeroing point, i can hit the target allday long...its at diffrent distances im finding hard, where i never used too..abit mad i think, might be me being lazy because i have a PCP and not realising, im not sure, but definately have to work on it hi Rob I find this hard to beleive ,you are having trouble shooting a PCP have you seen the post with the targets i put up,for different ranges for hold over http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/234650-free-printable-hft-zeroing-targets/ print these off,and after a session with these you should be fine keep me updated! and I will try and help you as much as I can,you have a nice PCP and it will be a shame if you get disheartened by this problem.so keep me informed check this post code out http://www.old-downs-pursuits.co.uk/where-we-are and if you want some on hands advise and tips,then make it here! Please dont loose the faith in the huntsman classic,a lovely PCP to shoot! regards Davy Quote Link to post
robwelsh 354 Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 i know , i thought my shooting would of gone better :L bloody typical! i think its just me getting used to the scope and the kit, as i can shoot it tidy, ish haha, but its at diffrent distances..im sure il get to grips with it before long.. going from spring to pcp i kept expecting recoil , this was putting my shooting off, but i seem to be getting better..just adjusting i suppose, il have a look at the postcode and am greatful youd take the time out mate, il have a butchers now.. the car is finally going to a garage tommorow to stop this leak, been driving me crazy lol atb an thanks again robbo Quote Link to post
ghillies 209 Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 The chairgun two lines thing - that is the top and bottom of th etube, if you like. Don't forget, your error is in 3 planes, not just 2. You can have some error sideways and still be in the kill zone - the kill zone is a circle of your own choice in size. A circle on a pigeon kill zone is smaller than the one on a rabbit - but whatever size it is, imagine that circle extending back to the rifle as a tube. Point blank range is the length of tube that you can shoot down by holding dead on - for example, a .177 sighted in at 33 meters and an acceptable kill zone of 1" would relate (roughly) to a point blank range of about 23 metres to 36 metres and again another short "tube" at about 12 metres to 15 metres where the pellet is within 1" of th eline of sight - but on the upward section of the arc. Bigger animal has a bigger kill zone, so the error can be extended out a bit, hence my suggestion of 1/2" for a pigeon and 1" for a rabbit and 4" for red deer. These are not hard and fast, just to illustrate the point. fitting it to the ret is what i knew it as...yup yup. Quote Link to post
Acuspell 329 Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 ..so bottom line is, is practice your arse off, learn what equiptment you have at diffrent ranges, with the methods been given, an practice some more lol...i used to be a crackin shot, with a springer and normal scopes...iv now got a pcp and AO scopes (never used them before) and im shockin, i thought a pcp would enhance my shots, but im finding it more difficult than a springer...believe it or not. whenever i take a shot, i think i have to compensate for recoil...i suppose its me adjusting to a new gun too thats making it tricky...and when i say im shockin...im not that bad, but worse than i was lol..at 30yrds, zeroing point, i can hit the target allday long...its at diffrent distances im finding hard, where i never used too..abit mad i think, might be me being lazy because i have a PCP and not realising, im not sure, but definately have to work on it hi Rob I find this hard to beleive ,you are having trouble shooting a PCP have you seen the post with the targets i put up,for different ranges for hold over http://www.thehuntin...eroing-targets/ print these off,and after a session with these you should be fine keep me updated! and I will try and help you as much as I can,you have a nice PCP and it will be a shame if you get disheartened by this problem.so keep me informed check this post code out http://www.old-downs...uk/where-we-are and if you want some on hands advise and tips,then make it here! Please dont loose the faith in the huntsman classic,a lovely PCP to shoot! regards Davy RUBBISH. It is an aweful thinig that you can't shoot for toffees. because I am in a generous mood today, I'll tell you what. I'll give you £200 for it so you can go and buy yourself a hatsan or SMK springer and regain your shooting mojo. Can't say fairer than that. Quote Link to post
zini 1,939 Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 LOL You wish. Quote Link to post
robwelsh 354 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 imagine that , 200 quid my arse, im not that bad, lol davey at the time i looked at the AA route planner, it wasnt working for me, wasnt loading up tidy, il try again in a bit Quote Link to post
robwelsh 354 Posted February 1, 2012 Report Share Posted February 1, 2012 LOL You wish. enventually watched that ultra of yours grouping with the 4.53's, nice demonstration mate Quote Link to post
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