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Taken from my book ....................

 

SORE NAIL BEDS

 

Some dogs suffer from sore nail beds (quicks: where the claw joins the end of the toe) I have found no particular reason for a dog to suffer from this: some of mine do, most don’t so I can’t really put a reason to this one.

 

When some dogs run on earth or sand, their running action forces dirt up under the delicate skin that surrounds the nail bed. Left untreated this can cause serious problems with the nail bed becoming sore, infected, oozing and swollen: very painful indeed. I’ve found that the outside and inside claws on the feet, both fore and hind, are usually the worst affected. This is because the inside and outside toes are the ones which are bearing the brunt of the dogs’ weight as it turns hard when galloping: the middle toes seldom seem to suffer to the same extent, but check all toes as a matter of course when you are treating them for soreness.

 

Always check your dog’s feet when you have been out in muddy conditions, and wash them carefully on your return home.

I use a bucketful of warm water containing a splash of antiseptic, though a tablespoonful of salt is just as good for everyday use. Use a soft brush: I use an old toothbrush, to clean the softened dirt from around the claws.

 

Don’t brush upwards towards the dog’s foot, always brush away from the nail bed, or in line with the skin. Don’t try and do this if the mud is hard: stand the dog’s feet in the bucket for a few moments first if the mud has set hard: our local clay sets like concrete round each claw by the time we reach home unless it is pouring with rain.

 

Cut 6-7" lengths of Elastoplast into three, lengthways. Use a strip for each claw you need to bind. Start half way up the claw, and work back towards the toe, winding the strip round, making sure to end on top of the claw: add a drop of Superglue to hold the end in place.

 

Follow the above instruction, being careful not to bind the tape too tightly as this can cut off circulation in the claws. Even claws have a blood supply which needs to circulate freely. Don’t forget to remove the tape as soon as you return home: soak the dog’s feet in a bucket of hot water for a couple of minutes as this soon loosens the binding and the whole lot normally slips straight off if you get a finger nail under the top edge.

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You should also check underneath the dog’s feet as well when you wash them: lumps of mud, even stones, can get trapped between the pads, once again setting like little concrete chips between the toes, and fastened there by the fur: don’t try and pull these off if that is the case as you’ll not only hurt the dog but pull out the protective fur as well. Always soak mud off feet.

 

Finish the feet by applying Padnasol around the nail beds and on the pads.

 

IMPORTANT If the dog’s nail beds have become swollen, oozing and infected DO NOT attempt to bind them until healing is complete. Binding infected nail beds will aggravate the infection and be incredibly painful to the dog and prolong the problem one hundred fold!

 

You need to keep the dog on a lead and out of mud until the healing process is complete, and if the problem is one of longstanding this could take several weeks. An antibiotic cream can be applied to infected nail beds once the initial cleaning has taken place, and to clean infected nail beds you need to make sure that all pus, dead tissue, as well as fur, is removed from the area.

 

Hydrogen Peroxide 6% vol is a good way of removing the muck from infected nail beds as it seeps into wounds, and by its oxidising action, bubbles the infection and trapped dirt to the surface. If the problem has become really severe you will also see dead tissue sloughing off leaving behind healthy pink flesh. If there is any sign that the claws are hot and tender, or that swelling is apparent on the toe itself I’d get straight to a vet as that sort of infection can travel up the leg to the whole body and make the dog very ill indeed.

NOTE: Do not use Hydrogen Peroxide more than twice on normal wounds as it does damage healthy tissue as well as helping to remove infected tissue. Hydrogen Peroxide has a slightly cauterizing effect which inhibits healing if used too often.

 

 

Any infection to the foot should not be ignored as without correct treatment you could find yourself, or rather your dog, in deep trouble: remember? No foot: no dog! (at any rate, no dog capable of running!)

 

 

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real good advice skycat one of my dogs suffers bad quicks..iam not questioning your methods just adding what i do ..i dont wait till i get home i do them as soon as possible like you say some certain types of soil sets like concrete and can be hard within half hour after they have stopped running and more it works up into the quicks the worse it gets so i either use a hosepipe at one of the farmers or keepers houses or even find a small stream river ect and do them . even a puddle ..and do them proper when i get home..and always towel the dry either wound powder or even jonhsons baby talc helps take the moister out off them too,,

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ALRIGHT MATE .

IN MY HUT I HAVE A 2LTR COKE BOTTLE WITH THE TOP CHOPPED OFF WITH DILUTED POTTASSIUM POMAGNATATE IN IT AND MY DOGS FEET ARE WASHED DAILY.

PREVENTION,S BETTER THAN A CURE..

MOST IMPORTANT THING ABOUT BEING THE REAL DEAL.

ALWAYS TAKE EXCEPTIONAL CARE OF YOUR RUNNERS FEET.

IF THE DOG CANT RUN ITS A LABRA MONKEY.END OFF :thumbs:

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ALRIGHT MATE .

IN MY HUT I HAVE A 2LTR COKE BOTTLE WITH THE TOP CHOPPED OFF WITH DILUTED POTTASSIUM POMAGNATATE IN IT AND MY DOGS FEET ARE WASHED DAILY.

PREVENTION,S BETTER THAN A CURE..

MOST IMPORTANT THING ABOUT BEING THE REAL DEAL.

ALWAYS TAKE EXCEPTIONAL CARE OF YOUR RUNNERS FEET.

IF THE DOG CANT RUN ITS A LABRA MONKEY.END OFF thumbs.gif

 

 

You could just teach us all too train our dog to Watch your feet while they run 3Turns :laugh: :laugh: :laugh: ,

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