Guest The Shaman Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Been on my Basic Chainsaw Course this week and have my assessment tomorrow. Spent two and a half days stripping the chainsaw down, learning all the parts, sharpening chain etc no problem - but we only spent an hour outside doing the cross cutting as it was Baltic, hoying it down and generally unfriendly weather. Now I'm doing a bit of revision - all the parts, stripping down, health and safety no problem - starting a chainsaw from cold is the bit thats got me, as we only did it the once - do you have chain brake on or off to start, then knock off choke, rev etc before engaging chain. Any help welcome - On the day I will be fine, it's just those stupid niggly doubts that won't go away. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest The Big Fish Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Chain break off. Choke on and pull until she fires, switch choke off then pull until she starts. The chain break is only there as fail safe device to prevent a kick back taking your head off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest The Shaman Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Nice one The Big Fish :thumbs-up: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Ditch_Shitter Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Could've done with you two lads round here this afters. I was out there with my Bow Saw. Cutting a load of Ash I've had stored up. I have a Chain, but I'm still trying to get back to the shop for my horse and a pair of 'Safety Trousers'. I figure I can probably move my face faster than I can both legs, see. Anyway, as I have a pair of knowledgable blokes here: These Safety Trousers (Husqu' ones); How 'Safe' are they? Like, will they just protect me from flying splinters - or are they of any earthly use should the damn thing drop and come after my shins? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest The Shaman Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 The safety trousers are designed to fray if the chainsaw touches them, and the fraying material will snag around the chainsaw stopping it before it can cut through to the flesh - supposedly, so they are no good for stopping sharp objects piercing through. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest The Big Fish Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 As the shaman has stated, inside the trousers are long strands of fibers, IF the chain was to cut through the outer layer it would start collecting these strands and binding the chain. They rekon that there is enough strands to wrap the chain up and stop it dead before it cuts right through to your leg. Plus they are warm as feck on a cold day, but they are sweaty feckers in the summer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Ditch_Shitter Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Mmm. Thanks for that, lads. (Ho! *Cough*) Just reading it all made me visualise it ..... F*ck That for a game of LumberJacks! Ok. Good. (Gulp!) Don't what I'm so ' ' about. I just have the Ultimate Respect for Chain Saws. Well, alright; They scare the shit out of me! Maybe I'll take some more notice of the various other bits and pieces available then? Boots would be nice. Maybe even a jacket ....? I mean, if the kit has half a chance of working, that's a f*ck site better than the NO Chance I'd have, if that b*stard came back at me and made contact. Cheers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest The Big Fish Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Well, if i'm on a full on day with the c.saw, only protection that i have is trousers and eye protection, I KNOW I KNOW, you are supposed to have the jacket, goggles, helmet, ear protection, gloves and fecking boots and no doubt a gas mask too, BUT you also need to be aware of whats going on around you and with all the clober on you just aint got a clue wether its night or day. The main thing i have found to be and the safest bit of info that i can give, is that when you start to tire of holding the saw, then its time to pack in and call it a day. If your knackered and that saw decides to kick back on you, you wont be able to control it. Also knowing what a tree or branch is going to do when cut helps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest The Shaman Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 There was a newspaper article last year i think. The husband was up some step ladders with the chainsaw, the wife was holding the step ladders. Husband finishes lopping branch, starts to climb down step ladders with chainsaw engine running, stumbles, revs chainsaw, which has just landed on the back of his wifes neck decapitating her. He got charged with murder.......... He put her head in a carrier bag and she suffocated Quote Link to post Share on other sites
logman 0 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 Ditchy mate, leave any Husky stuff well alone. If you want a pair of saw trousers youve got too go for Sthil, But the HI-Flex variety, safest on the market but are just like a pair of jeans when on. Same advice as regards saws themselves, BUY STHIL. I earn my living with these machines so thats the angle im coming from Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tiny tim 22 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 agree with country man ...sthil all the way ...all my 2 stroke machines are sthil after using all the cheaper makes, in the end buying sthil will save you money in the long run ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
logman 0 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 What sthils do you use then mate? I ve got an old 038, a 3 year old 440 and best off all the DADDY- THE 880. The biggest chainsaw in the world The beast from the east we call it! Ive never seen a saw cut like it but its bloody heavy and it if it kicks can take me off my feet, and im nearly 16 stone! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Guest The Shaman Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I have got all the Stihl safety gear - gloves, jackets,boots and trousers through work, who are paying for the chainsaw course, and the felling course next week, and once we have successfully passed that we shall be purchasing chainsaws and they will more than likely be Stihls. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whitewarrior 0 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 agree with country man ...sthil all the way ...all my 2 stroke machines are sthil after using all the cheaper makes, in the end buying sthil will save you money in the long run ... sthil chainsaw trousers have 64 layers of mesh stuff in them and should [bANNED TEXT] drop the saw on your leg when it is reving flat out the trousers will stall your saw at 3 layers of mesh so i've been told Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mole catcher 1 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 (edited) in answer to your question about chain break on or off, you should have the chain break on(so the chain doesnt spin as you pull start it) most saws wont let you start it without the chain breaked. if you try and start it with the chain spinning or drop start it you will FAIL on safety issues. done mine last november Edited January 26, 2007 by mole catcher Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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