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Great day for the young dogs


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A couple of friends and I got out today for some hunting with the young dogs,

 

 

First spot checked something is there and the dog begins to work. We dig about 3 ft in rock hard dirt. We never broke thru, but that was ok. He pulls out this years model hog and we let some young dogs have a look.

 

The tug by the leg

 

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Keeperhogfacetoface.jpg

 

Keeperhogleg.jpg

 

 

having a look

 

milliehogthl.jpg

 

Millie.jpg

 

We move on and a young dog enters and begins to bay. We locate and get a mark then we see a groundhog bolt out and head up the creek bed.

 

hogboltbrushpileskunk.jpg

 

 

The dog continues to work so we wait. Shallow dig at less than 2 ft, then we smell skunk. We dig fast and pull the dog, we lose the skunk in this sette with multiple holes but the dog is ok.

 

liger.jpg

 

 

Not soon after my dog enters a sette at the top of the field and immediately begins to bay. He’s moving a little so we wait for him to settle. We hear him mixing it up with something and sticking to his job. We get a mark and begin to dig thru this dirt that’s like concrete. After the first six inches, it’s literally inches at a time to get down to him. We break thru and get a look at an adult groundhog. He did a great job. His first find, fit and stay. My camera batteries went dead, so I don’t have any pictures. :blink:

 

tyke2-1.jpg

 

 

We checked a few more spots with no luck, call it a very successful day and head back for a beer. Great company, with some very good young dogs coming along just fine,

 

 

wooly

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great post mate some fine pictures too good to the see the young dogs havin a go ,is the skunk as bad as it is made out am just curious been from the other side of the pond cheers rob :)

 

Skunks can be very bad and kill dogs in the ground in the wrong situation.

 

Here is part of an article written about terriers getting skunked. We take it very seriously and get the dog out as quickly as possible. I've seen a number of dogs get skunked but recover right away. Fortunately I've never been around when a dog had to be treated by a vet. Both of my dogs have been skunked, one now acts different when she encounters a skunk in the ground. She was skunked pretty bad but came out of the ground on her own, threw up a few times and recovered. (Stunk for weeks though) My young one hasn't learned the hard way yet. He was lucky. I know of a couple of friends who have lost their dogs to skunks.

 

Long article but interesting. there's no perfect science, just the best advise we can come up with.

 

 

Skunked underground

 

Sadly, the account of their veterinarian's initial lack of concern over their dog being sprayed by a skunk was not the first of which I have heard. One must understand that vets often get calls about dogs being sprayed by skunks, and the biggest concern is usually how to get that foul odor off the dog. But there is a major difference between a dog getting sprayed above ground where there is plenty of fresh air, and a dog getting sprayed in the ground where the air is limited, especially if sprayed in the face. There are a number of theories as to the physiologic mechanisms which effect a dog skunked in the ground, but it is clear to me that the ultimate result is shock.

 

What is shock exactly? It is a sudden derangement of the intricate mechanisms which normally control vital body functions such and blood pressure and circulation. When shock occurs the body tries to compensate by restricting blood flow to non-vital organs such as the extremities, digestive organs and liver, while maintaining blood flow to vital organs such as the heart, lungs, brain and kidneys. This mechanism can buy the animal (be it human or beast) time for the shock to be reversed, but there is a point of no return. If the cause of the shock is quickly removed the animal will likely recover spontaneously. However, if the shock is not soon reversed, blood flow to the kidneys is sacrificed. As the blood continues to circulate to the heart, lungs and brain, vital nutrients including oxygen, salts and sugars are used up, and toxins build up. This occurs because the liver and kidneys, which function in the provision of vital substances and the clearance of toxins, respectively have been bypassed. The brain is very sensitive to low levels of oxygen and sugar and to toxins, and the kidneys suffer damage when subjected to extended periods of low blood flow. As a result individuals who initially survive a period of profound shock may later show signs of brain and kidney damage, and eventually die. That is why it is essential that the shock victim be treated as soon as possible.

 

I believe that in dogs sprayed underground the cause of shock is continuous exposure to the noxious stimulant from which they are unable to escape the skunk spray. This theory is supported by the fact that dogs who get out of the hole quickly and do not take a direct hit in the face almost always do well, while those trapped underground do poorly. The more quickly the cause of the shock is reversed, the more quickly the animal recovers.

 

Many of us who hunt have had the misfortune of having had a dog skunked in a hole. Most can attest that the majority of dogs come out of the hole, throw up a few times and stink for a couple of months, but suffer no major consequences. This is why most veterinarians are not terribly concerned when they receive a call about a dog who has been sprayed by a skunk. However, dogs who take a direct hit in the face and/or cannot get out of the hole do poorly, and even die. Most veterinarians have not dealt with such cases because very few of their patients spend afternoons chasing animals underground. Here are some suggestions for dealing with the unfortunate terrier who faces a skunk underground.

 

1)Assess the situation. Once the dog is out, whether dug to or out on his own volition, examine him. Look at his overall appearance. Is he having difficulty walking/standing? Is he throwing up? What color are his gums? Looking at a dog's gums gives you an idea of the status of his circulation. As shock progresses gums will go from healthy pink, to pale pink, to white, to blue-purple. This is a reflection of the body shunting blood away from non-vital peripheral tissues. In advanced shock the gums are bluish because the oxygen in the blood remaining in this tissue has been used up. If you are not familiar with the appearance of normal gums, look at your dogs gums so you will be. A dog whose gums are slightly pale, vomits once or twice and is having a little difficulty walking will likely recover completely within a few minutes. The dog will usually salivate a great deal, and may also have a bout of diarrhea. This behavior is typical of a dog who has been sprayed but gets out of the hole quickly. Let the dog rest, allow small drinks of water and treat areas of skin which have been sprayed (see below). Keep a close eye on the dog - he should recover to normal behavior and gums should return to a healthy pink within about 30 minutes or less. The dog should be seen by a veterinarian if full recovery is not achieved, or if he seems to recover but then deteriorates. The dog that has been trapped in a hole and/or sprayed in the face is more likely to be in serious condition. Gums may be very pale or blue-purple, dog may be staggering or unable to stand, may be staring blankly and may vomit several times. This dog should receive veterinary care immediately. Treat the areas of skin which have been sprayed as soon as possible, but do not delay getting to the vet.

 

2)When contacting a veterinarian about a dog you feel must be seen INSIST the dog be seen immediately! Tell him/her that the dog was down in a hole when sprayed and could not escape from the fumes, and that you know of dogs in similar situations who have DIED, because they went into shock. Tell the veterinarian what color the dog's gums are, if he is having difficulty walking/standing, if he is staring blankly, and how many times he has vomited. This information will help the vet understand that the dog really is in serious condition.

 

3)Neutralizing the spray on the dog's skin can be accomplished in a number of ways. There are some good products available for this purpose. "Skunk Off" is reputed to be the best, and is applied directly from the bottle to the affected areas without dilution, so it is easy to use. It is available in a small bottle which can be included in your hunting gear to be used in the field. Another good product is "Odor-eze", however requires making a solution with water, so may not be as practical for use in the field. Tomato juice works quite well, but may leave a pink hue to your white terrier. Whatever method you choose, neutralizing the skunk spray as quickly as possible is extremely important - remember that it is the what initiates shock. The more quickly it is reversed the more quickly the animal can begin to recover.

 

I wish there was no need for this article, but as long as terriers are hunted in this country skunks will pose a very real threat. I hope that this information will better prepare hunters for dealing with future misfortunes.

Edited by woolbr8stl
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