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Found 52 results

  1. Heard a while back mention of sharpening with MDF wheels but never really paid much attention. I recently thought i would give it a go and turned up a quick MDF wheel on the face-plate of my wood-working lathe. I clamped a makeshift guide to the back of the lathe and worked with the wheel turning away from me. I was blown away by the results! Super sharp paper slicey edge straight off the wheel. Decided a dedicated MDF wheel sharpener was high on the list of must haves so started gathering bits. I was lucky enough to pick up an old 8" Makita bench grinder on ebay for £25. Everything else is made from scrap bits so that was all the outlay for the build. I took the guards off the grinder, swapped the switch and the power cable around so the on/off switch is effectively now on the back so the grinder can be operated with the wheels running away from you. The knife clamp is made from an old door hinge welded to a bit of rod off of some other power tool, hence the nice grippy knob on the end. A 6mm hex bolt through the hinge clamps the knife in place. A cutting of hex bar slides up and down to alter the angle of grind and locks in place with another allan bolt. Once set up to the desired angle the blade can be sharpened on both sides and both wheels quickly without altering anything. The MDF wheels are loaded with grey polishing compound and jewelers rouge respectively. P1100602 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100612 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100604 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100605 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100606 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100608 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100610 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100611 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  2. kitchen knives and steak knives from bohler n690 and AEB-L stainless red g10 handles with stainless pins
  3. Here is the UK legal carry Opinel mod slip-joint i have been working on. I dropped the point on the original no8 blade and shortened it to 3" The slightly unusual shape was determined by the central pivot point and steps in the original blade. You can see this from the pre-assembly pic. Although it looks slightly unusual it has the advantage of giving a shoulder to place your thumb on which actually holds the slipjoint spring in making it even more solid and less likely to fold up on your fingers than a normal slipjoint design. Milled brass liners with soldered bolsters and stabilized stag scales, all fixed together with stainless pins with the exception of the brass rivets on the scales. P1100490 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100491 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100492 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100494 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">p1100495 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100496 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100499 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100503 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100509 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100513 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100489 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100488 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  4. aeb-l bohler udderholm , stainless,blade , leadwood handle ,red g10 liners ,stainless fittings
  5. A little something for the Mora fans that don't want a fixed blade. 104mm Sandvic stainless Mora blade with the classic scandi grind. N0 8 Opinel hardware and fitted to red stag antler with stabilized core. Phosphor Bronze contact plates to give smooth long lasting action. Overall length of knife is 140mm P1100485 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100465 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100464 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100482 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100459 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100469 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100477 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100456 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100455 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100460 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100474 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100468 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  6. Thought you would like to see the latest off the production line from my son. Medium sized full tang, not sure what the style would be described as but very much his own style and design coming to the fore. The thick blade gives his characteristic long grinds. The 100mm blade is series 2 Landrover leaf spring and overall the knife is 195mm long. Soldered brass bolsters (he was a bit miffed he scratched the blade cleaning the excess solder off), teak handle, copper pins. P1100373 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100375 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100376 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100378 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100379 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100380 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100381 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100382 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100383 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100384 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  7. .....A knife made from a wheel bearing. Recently changed the front wheel bearing on my car. I had heard the steel can make good blades so did a bit of research. Bearing steel tends to be Bohler 52100 and indeed makes good knife steel with a good chromium content keeping the carbide grains small and the blade tough. I made this carver for the kitchen, similar to the shape of the one that it is replacing (inferior cheap stainless and now well worn from sharpening). The handle is melamine, not the most exotic looking but functional. The blade is made from the opposite side race to the one it is sitting on in the pictures. Have been using it for a week and it still slices paper so i am very hppy with its performance. P1100403 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100399 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100411 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100409 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100408 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100407 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100406 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100405 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100404 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100412 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100413 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  8. This is the latest from my lad. A very fine 240+ layer Damascus kitchen knife. He hand forged the Damascus from layered industrial band-saw blade and circular saw blade. He spent most of the day forge welding the blade all on the anvil with a hammer. Drawing it out, cutting & re-stacking then drawing out again. Used the waste oil forge and ran about 30 liters of waste oil through it....happily it is free fuel. It is a very slicey blade and now has pride of place in our kitchen. 301mm over all and the blade is 178mm x 23mm x 2mm P1100358 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100356 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100367 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100368 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100371 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100365 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100364 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100372 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100372 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100346 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  9. This is the latest knife made by my son. Custom made hunter 220mm overall. Blade: 105 mm long x 30mm wide x 4mm thick. Series 2 land-rover leaf spring with pitted finish on the flats and satin on the bevels. Shaving sharp with excellent edge retention. Handle: 105 mm long Scottish red stag antler. Polished brass pommel capped in stainless steel drilled through with a 2.5mm hole. Guard: 10mm polished brass with the front hammer finished to match the flats of the blade P1100315 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100338 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100317 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100321 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100337 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100335 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100323 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100324 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100325 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100319 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100316 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100320 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100322 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  10. My lad has been churning some work out of the workshop with the extra lockdown time. He made this Bowie to be used and abused so just did a quick handle and left it rough ground. Series 2 landrover leaf spring, oak handle fixed with copper pins. P1100292 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100291 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100290 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100287 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  11. My son made up this surface grinder jig using the slide off a scrapped cross cut woodworking saw. The adjustment screw is from a car jack. The rest is out of the scrap pile. At the moment the blades just get stuck to the platten with double sided tape. A magnet chuck will be added later. P1100278 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100279 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100280 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100281 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  12. Made this Customized Opinel No9 fitted to Scottish Red Stag antler tine handle over the last couple of days. Self lubricating Phosphor bronze contact plates for smooth action and durability. Polished blade and shaving sharp! P1100265 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100272 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100276 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100277 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100269 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100270 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100264 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  13. My lad (now 20, don't know where the years went) made this custom flipper for my anniversary. He has made a lot of fixed blades but this is his first folder so he has set a pretty high bench mark for himself! Blade is 01 tool steel with Stainless Liners and Oak scales
  14. pair of deerstalkers knives 120mm blades from bohler n690 austrian stainless , red g10 handles with stainless fittings
  15. work in progress kitchen knives , a real pain in the boll...blending the grinds so there is no grind line ,lot of work yet before heat treatement ,then a fkn lot more after
  16. one for the kitchen from bohler n690 stainless
  17. Been busy with other things so not made a knife for a while. There is a KITH over on EM and the challenge was to make a Puukko form recycled materials....right up my street. Blade ground form a HSS industrial planer blade. Handle is stacked from recycled brass, copper, stainless and filled in with denim Micarta. All cast onto the handle in a oner then ground to shape.
  18. a few blanks profiled and ground .from 3mm bohler n690 stainless ,ready for cyro and heat treatement .
  19. It is an idea that has been floating around in my head for a while....using wast oil to fire a forge up to welding temp. Anyone that does much forge welding knows fuel is expensive! I was looking to keep it as simple as possible so gravity fed fuel and low pressure air with no fancy nozzles to get clogged. This is the solution i came up with. Based around an old propane bottle. Filled with water and cut top and bottom off. P1090436 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090437 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090438 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> Brake disk welded on vent end and an old chimney pot for the inner skin. P1090440 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090442 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090443 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> Ceramic wool on the inside of the door, base and between the pot and the steel bottle. P1090444 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090445 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> Painted rigidizer on the ceramic wool on the door and around the pot, layed a piece op polythene on and closed tight and let it dry. The pot was left 20mm proud so it pushed into the wool and formed a checked seal. P1090446 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> Cored a hole through the lot for the burner. P1090447 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090448 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> Burner 50mm scaffold pipe with stainless milker nipple nozzle on the end. Something like a 8mm steel pipe down the middle for an oil feed. Initially i left the end of the air pie restricted thinking it would spray the oil better but it restricted the air flow too much so i cut it back to nearly full bore. P1090449 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090450 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090451 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090453 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090454 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> After first fire the chimney pot is cracked but still in tact. I put o piece of stainless steel 6mm plate in the chamber where the oil lands. This needs to be red hot for the oil to vaporize and ignite. The first burn i just threw some paper and sticks in and lit them up then started injecting oil and air. For the next burn i added a quick hitch point pr a propane line to pre-heat before starting the oil injection. P1090455 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090456 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> Pics of the assembled unit. Waste oil holder is just a plumbers gas bottle with the bottom cut off and a simple tap to control the oil flow. P1090457 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090458 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090459 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> Here she is on her maiden run at forging steel. Ever optimistic i went for forge welding straight off. About 12 strands of bed spring and 4 strips of file welded in a bundle then forge welded like a cable weld, twisting them together. These pics are all with the burner shut off, just the after glow! P1090462 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090463 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090461 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090465 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090468 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090469 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> This thing pumps out insane heat. After running at welding temps for a couple of hours it has actually started to melt the fire-clay chimney pot! May replace it with fire-bricks or refractory, but will wait till it disintegrates, P1090470 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090471 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr"> In summary: The whole thing was built entirely from scrap.The fuel is even free. The only thing i paid for was the ceramic wool and welding rods. Best used outside. It burns surprisingly clean but i wouldn't chance running it in an enclosed space. The blower is an old variable speed hoover...again off the dump. It pumps out insane heat but is quite adjustable. It will light up again without pre-heat half an hour after the previous shut down....just turn on the oil and air. Finally here is the forge welded Damascus blank. P1090474 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090473 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
  20. ready for heat treatement !! .cut and profiled from 3.25mm bohler n690 . premium austrian stainless
  21. skinner .from austrian bohler n690 stainless red g10 over black g10 liners .handle
  22. Just finished this Tanto style knife. It is made for a KITH (Knife In a hat) on another forum. You make a knife to a chosen style, names all go in a " hat" and you all get someone else's knife. This one is made from a HSS Planer blade, black denim wrap Micarta and copper trims. P1090391 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090389 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090388 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090408 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090407 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090407 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090402 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090396 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090395 by Terry GriP1090393 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickrffiths, on Flickr
  23. profiled and first grind , ,now ready for heat treatement , 2 skinners and 2 deerstalkers field knives , from german bohler n690 stainless
  24. My lad has been back in the shed again. Here is his latest design. A hefty chopper made from 7mm Landrover Leaf Spring. With a 200mm blade she is a beast! Will get some more pics up when it is finished. P1090245 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1090244 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr
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