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About markha

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    Extreme Hunter
  • Birthday 29/01/1968

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    North Wales
  1. Hi, I have an acquaintance who requires some rabbits in the fur, £3.50 each paid, must be headshot as they need to be edible. You need to be in or close to the Chesterfield area. needed for this Friday Thank you.
  2. Hi, I have an acquaintance who requires some rabbits in the fur, £3.50 each paid, must be headshot as they need to be edible. You need to be in or close to the Chesterfield area. Needed for this Friday ta
  3. Hi, I have an acquaintance who requires some rabbits in the fur, £3.50 each paid, must be headshot as they need to be edible. You need to be in or close to the Chesterfield area. Needed for this Friday ta
  4. Sold. Have a couple more available.
  5. I have been away from this site for a year or so. To be honest I can believe that all those who have commented on the original question, except those whos answer was correct, were not able to read their own certificate conditions and figure it out themselves. I can on,y assume there was lots of advice from non FAC holders. If you have a closed ticket, ie you have nominated land on record that you shoot over, it doesnt matter a jot that your mate has invited you to shoot on his permission, all you have to do is make sure you get a 'Land Authority Form' completed by the owner or tenant (farmer who gives your mate permission) who owns the shooting rights giving you permission to shoot there as well. Then you send the map of the area plus the form back to your local firearms team who then add that to your record. Once you keep adding permissions they will eventually 'open your ticket' when you send in a letter formally requesting and open certificate. You still need to get land authority forms completed for each permission,,but you dont have to inform your local police force. This is why people get so concerned about taking friends on their permissions, as to satisfy the letter of the law, they do in fact have to have permission to be there from the land owner, tenant who Owns the sporting shooting rights. Now, if the Land Authority Form, signed and dated by the owner of the shooting rights and the person who wants permission, has a sentence stating that a guest may accompany the permission holder then it is up to the 'guest' to satisfy themselves that while shooting as a guest, that they can meet the conditions on their certificate... Which is basically get written permission from the owner of the shooting rights. When someone invites me to shoot with rifle, i make a point of adhering to the conditions on my certificate, which is Open. It doesnt matter if your certificate is open or closed, written permission is needed otherwise you are committing armed trespass, a very serious offence. Atleast that is how I have had it explained to me, and as someone else has already stated on here, the definitive answer will come from your departments in BASC or CA or the other membership organisation that you have membership and public liability insurance with for shooting
  6. markha

    Viht N135

    Your missing the most important and highly favoured bullet! 53gr V-Max. Very high BC! Enough said Forget swaged stuff, benchrest, F-class and long range varmint shooters just use high quality off the shelf bullet heads. Also try the Sierra dome points, used them in the past for easy 1/2" groups at 55gr.
  7. As title. Brand new, unused, in factory wrappings and stuff sack. Eberlestock Snipers Nest. £410 plus postage.
  8. I bought this set up about a year ago. In that time I have used it a handful of times ( been using nv kit predominately) and the lithium battery has only been charged about 5 times if that. All in perfect clean working order, amber filter has a few scuffs. Coil cable and cigar adapter are in as new perfect working order as is the on/off switch, never had any problems with overheating etc. Lightforce 140 lance with scope mount Spare scope mount Deben Tracer 10Ah Lithium battery, mains charger, cigar car charger, pouch Lightforce 140 Amber Would rather sell as a complete pack but may spilt. All items are plus postage, or can collect in North Wales, Bangor area Item also for sale elsewhere so be quick! £190.00 no swaps!
  9. Sounds to me like far to many things going wrong that you dont fully understand yet. The thing you said about not being able to get a decent sight picture in the scope is definitely the place to start. If there is one thing that will cause bad groupings its 'cheek Weld' and parallax issues. Pick your rifle up and bring it to shoulder with your eyes closed as if your ready to take a shot. Now open your shooting eye and do not adjust your cheek position. If you cant see through the scope properly you need to adjust the height of the scope mounts or the height of the comb till you can see through the scope when bringing the rifle to shoulder. Now get a box of remington accutips from the shop, get some 50gr as the recoil will be light, go try it out.
  10. markha

    Spring Spaniel Problem

    Bunson, Hello I was going to post my thoughts on collars and thought better of it as personally didnt want to get involved in that debate. Personally I think they work well if used correctly and are another training aid. However, reading what you have posted on your use, I would put you (and one of the other lads who used a collar) firmly in the box of 'a person who knows how to use correct timing with collar' not blowing smoke up you mate. Im thinking that you already have a very concise grasp on canine behavior and body language and as such know how to use a collar to the best effect. Fair play to you for offering your time with the OP, I would think that you would be able to help this lad with other training tips as well. If this chap is close, pop over and pick his brains with your training. Nothing to lose and lots to gain. Some other thoughts of mine in general, on training and issues' Too many people use a collar in such a way that it becomes a punishment, and we know thats not the right way to do it. All you then end up with is a dog that is forced to do what you want it to do, not a dog that wants to do what you would like it to do. A forced dog is an unhappy one that will be walking behind you with a low tail and a low head, not a happy dog walking beside you with a neutral walking stance. A forced dog is a submissive dog, and submissiveness leads to another set of problems, usually dog to dog aggression, and when you try and train that incorrectly you get dog to human aggression and thats when it gets dumped on the street, picked up by dog wardens put in the stray kennel and waits on death row for 8 days before being put down, all because the owner didn't bother to find out how to be a friend to their dog. Very sad. Im not saying that happens with every dog that has forced punished training, but its very well documented. There are many easy right ways to train a dog - its learning them thats the hard bit. There are many easy wrong ways to train a dog - not learning them is the easy bit. When you have learned to spot the easy wrong ways you will have learned the easy right ways Final thoughts on Springers - Everyone says they are mad - no they aren't, they are very sensitive, very intelligent and have a lot of energy to burn. All adolescent dogs can be a handful, Springers a little more so, they will bomb around in circles, then come back to you and lick you to death or pee all over the place, then go bombing off again, they will jump loop the loops when they can, and are like a firework on the floor, they are either switched on or they are asleep when they are younger and they don't ever really calm down, but get a little milder when they hit 4yrs. Final final thoughts...clicker training anyone
  11. markha

    Spring Spaniel Problem

    To the Original Poster Very interesting thread. Im a specialist search dog trainer/assessor and handler, my working field of expertise is irrelevant as canine behavior training is training, whether thats gun dogs, all arms/explosives, money, dvd, drugs, animal scats etc etc etc There is not a month goes by when we don't get springer spaniels in the kennels for rehoming, mostly around 9 months to 13 months age range. The reason why is because of their extreme interest and prey drive, they just switch right on and want to have fun mooching about a full speed in the undergrowth and hedges etc and if their handler has no idea about training, has no patience, does not understand their dogs breed and thinks the dog is at fault, they get frustrated with the dog, they beat the dog, put shock collars on the dog, then rehome the dog. Its never the dogs fault, always trainer/handler error. I have seen some top pedigree dogs trained by some very knowledgeable trainers, then the handler brings the dog back and says its shit, wont work, wont listen, the trainers then explain that they now need to spend £2k on training the dog owner! We spend around 4 days solid with so called problem dogs and end up with a perfectly rounded individual canine, thats settled and will work hard and obey all commands - no beating, no slapping, no shock collars ( we in Wales) no clickers, just working with very simple behavior modification techniques. Its dog handlers that need the training. Go back to basics, stop using a short lead and switch to a 6 metre leash, don't let the dog off the leash, let it have its exploring time, but start adding the recall commands and rewarding with a kong toy or ball, small treat (which ever your dog is switched on to, some are just ball mad). The moment the dog ignores you, quietly and softly remove him from his fun play area that he finds so interesting, shorten the leash up, walk him at heel back home, end of session. The dog will very quickly learn that ignoring a command equals end of fun. Dogs learn in cycles of 3 and reinforcement of this in 25 cycles (max per day) of 3 is all that is needed in training a new command. Old hands will tell you, always keep a springer closer than 20ft when working of the lead, they are right! Even with the best will in the world their breeding makes the red mist come down, and their selective hearing to human barking switches off haha, but once the dog loves you and respects you they will swim through burning water for you. Get some bonding done with your dog, play ball recall games, always have his toy/ball in your pocket as an incentive to come back to you. Learn to pick up on your dogs body language, head, nose and eyes, tail etc, I have a Springer, its well trained, I know just what is going through its mind when its off the lead, I can see when its about to sod right off in to the woods and not come back, as its happened to me too, in the early days, and on rare occasion its still happens today, the defining factor is seeing the change in your dogs behaviour, seeing its body language and movement push the 'open space' boundary of your dominance, and then getting your dog back to you and calmed down before the red mist comes down, the more you spot the behaviour and distract it with a human reward of play/food/love, the quicker your dog will understand you and respect you. Best of luck
  12. Polishing is the key word, fine abrasive papers or fine finishing stone then 'crocus' paper for the smoothest finish at 'micron' level. I would have a very close inspection of how the 'stages' in the trigger work together, usually just removing the rough machine marks or casting marks is all thats needed.