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DevoidOvTalent

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Everything posted by DevoidOvTalent

  1. You don't need a mincer, even for small pups. Just use the back of a cleaver or a hatchet and smash the crap out of them (the bones, not the pups). As the pups get older, just smash less. I have had even toy breed pups on whole bones by seven or eight weeks old, no problems.
  2. For large breed pups a regular baby bottle with a 0-3 months or newborn sized nipple will work fine. Bitch milk is roughly twice as concentrated as goat's or cow's milk; for simple supplementation, I use condensed or evaporated milk (not sweetened), cow or goat, doesn't matter. It's convenient, ready to use after warming, and easily available at the grocery store. Never had the evaporated cow's milk cause diarrhea in my pups, just start slowly with small amounts. Put a little Karo syrup or honey in it to sweeten it and make it more palatable, heat to blood warm; remember blood warm on a dog is
  3. Yes, some dogs are simply easy keepers. They don't need as much food as others of a similar size and activity. I prefer easy keepers, costs less to keep them Since you've cut the food back and she's still pudgy, try cutting out some carbohydrates. Go with a high protein, low carb food until she's at the weight you want her to be. Doesn't work for all dogs but for most of them, lowering the amount of carbs will kick start the metabolism and help with weight loss. If a high protein food is too hot for her, try one with moderate protein. You could also try putting her on a raw diet. I've had
  4. I'm female, so you don't have to worry too much about my taking offense at a hug, though I'm not one to just let strangers paw away at me, mind you. I knew I had that file on my hard drive somewhere, and just had to find a link to it. FWIW, the vast majority of vaccine failure is due to vaccinating too young, while maternal antibodies are still present, or due to improper storage of vaccines. According to Dr. Ronald Schultz, who is the Vaccine Guy, 95% of puppies vaccinated after the age of twelve weeks will seroconvert. You really have to design a vaccine program that is correct for your
  5. There is a 2006 update of that pdf here: http://www.aahanet.org/resources/guidelines_canine.aspx Interesting that vets never tell you that the Lepto vax only lasts for about six months and has only 50-75% effectiveness, depending on the serovar.
  6. I have not been able to find any definitive information on the heredity of retained testicles. It does not seem to be a simple recessive, where you just avoid breeding to a line that exhibits the problem. I have heard of dogs with a retained testicle that never produced a pup with one, and bitches with no retained testicles in her lines that produced pups with them. There is also the possibility that it could be a freak accident during development, the testicles being physically unable to come down due to being too closely attached to the kidneys, or having too short of cords. There are also d
  7. If there is NO sign of them at all, you can't feel or see them as a lump under the skin inside the hind leg, they are not going to come down at this age. The inguinal ring in the flank area that the testicle has to pass through to get into the scrotum typically closes at 6 months old. A testicle on the aft side of the ring still has a chance to come down; one on the fore side will not, the ring is too small for it to get through. If this were my dog, I'd plan on neutering him, as bringing the testicles down through the inguinal ring will be an iffy proposition at best, if it is even possible.
  8. Note that in my post I stated not to put the tape on the dog, only on the sock. Perhaps I was not clear enough: DON'T PUT DUCT TAPE ON YOUR DOG'S SKIN.
  9. This is just above the fetlock joint, right? Get yourself a very long sock or a piece of lightweight breathable material sewn into a tube shape (old t-shirts work well), should be long enough to go from above the elbow to below the fetlock joint. Cut the toe off the sock. Put the sock on her leg, and tape it above the elbow all the way around, just tight enough to keep it from sliding over the elbow and down the leg. If it is too tight it will chafe. You do not need to tape it to the skin. I personally like duct tape, the dogs don't like to chew it and it doesn't stretch, but any durable tape
  10. It's not like that in the US. The vast majority of sighthound rescue like Greyhounds, etc. will not adopt to a home that wants to hunt the dog. Extremely specific contracts are also the norm, requiring fenced yards, no kenneling (dog must be kept the house), dog is never to be allowed off lead, that kind of thing. It is also increasingly difficult to get a dog of any kind through many shelters or rescues. The rescue community and general public regard anyone who keeps an intact dog as irresponsible and most will not place a dog with someone who keeps dogs that are not spayed or neutered.
  11. Sounds like he is starting to go a bit senile. I've a 13 year old Greyhound that way, he goes out in the yard and forgets why he's out there. He's also convinced that he gets fed three times a day instead of just two, and will not go to bed at night unless we give him another meal. You can give a dog human multivitamins. Dog multivitamins are designed to be given with kibble, so they typically have very low amounts of nutrients, plus some kind of flavoring to make them palatable. Go to the drugstore and compare the amounts of the human vitamins with the dog version, and pick the closest on
  12. I have seen some bite wounds that produced pretty horrible bruising without breaking the skin. Part her hair and look closely at the skin, if she's bruised you'll be able to see it as a dark red or purple area, even on a dark-skinned dog. My only other thought would be maybe the biting bitch hit a nerve?
  13. Is he capable of moving the leg in order to position the foot correctly? It could be that it is too painful to flex the leg so that he can get the foot down right, and it will correct itself. It is also possible he does not have proper sensation in the toes, they are a little numb; standing on the knuckles is a common sign of loss of feeling in the foot. Give the webbing between his toes a good pinch, if he reacts by pulling the leg away, he's got feeling.
  14. There was a study that found that dogs eating from raised bowls had a greater chance of bloat. I don't think it correlates as a cause, simply because most people who own a breed prone to bloat feed in raised bowls. For dogs that are gulpers or food bolters, you can put large rocks or balls in the bowl so the dog has to eat around them, feed from a flat shallow pan, or from a muffin tin, to slow down the consumption.
  15. You can give her sage or parsley, both herbs are helpful to dry up milk. A half or full teaspoon mixed into her food should do it. Sage is rather nasty-tasting and some dogs don't like the flavor; parsley is usually well accepted, though.
  16. You need to try a home made elimination diet. One novel protein, one novel carb, for a minimum of twelve weeks. Novel means something the dog has not eaten before, and therefore should not have an allergy to it. Avoid any multivitamins, etc, formulated for dogs; these tend to have flavorings that can cause problems. Treats are also out, you must keep the dog only on the chosen diet. Digestive symptoms such as poor weight gain are not uncommon with a food allergy or intolerance. The problem with just switching kibbles, even to a veterinary food, is that most of them have a ton of different ingr
  17. Since I posted elsewhere I may as well say hello. I live in Middle of Nowhere, Texas, in the US, and I have Afghan hounds (don't laugh.) I take them out rabbit chasing but nothing serious.
  18. With a maiden bitch the most surefire way to breed to guarantee pups is to breed her the first day she stands still for the dog and then every other day or every third day until she stops standing. If you then count 63 days backward from the date the pups are born you will have the day she ovulated; most bitches are fairly consistent on this from cycle to cycle and if you breed her again you will want to breed as close to the day of ovulation as possible. Most bitches will stand two or three days before ovulation; the eggs will be ready for fertilization about 72 hours after ovulation. If
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