4z or 6z?

[Guest bezza]

ill be buying a longnet for the winter. What are the pros and cons of the above thicknesses? Any advice appreciated.

[ferreterno1 0]

4z just gets into a big tangle you want at least 6z

[Guest bezza]

[Rabbithunter 456]

4z is okay if you can handle it. In terms if nylon longnets, i do like using 6z as ferreterno1 says. But 4z will suffice and weighs a lot less.

 

But then, im a sucker for a nice hand knitted spun polyester net

 

Edited July 8, 2007 by Rabbithunter

[mole catcher 1]

4z is a fine killing net, its normally the quality of the manifacture that lets the net down. ive worked for yrs 4z nets in the trad set manner and find they hold rabbits just as well as the 6z. when you look at the price its a case of you get what you pay for and even the 6z can be a little shoddy in its make up. Saying that i also use hand made nets and find you cant beat the feel when working these nets as well as the way they catch, but then again not all of us can make our own nets or have the cash to spend on a good hand made net

[Guest Rabbiteer]

If you want to learn phone up Bridport Nets and they will be happy to start you off and show you how it is done.

 

I have experimented working with a few differant materials and the best I have found so far is Hemp.

 

It handles realy well, doesnt slip but cuts the hell out of my fingers. I have been able to bang out the same distance as a I did with the other twines but in half the time and without any snaggs or slipping. Im going to have a bit of free time on my hands soon so Im going to try and make a good length net.

 

I know its a bugger to have to dry out after each use. A friend of mine has one and he talks about it so passionately, so Ive just got to give it a go and make one.

 

So the plan is to make a traditional hemp longnet with 100% bagging (50m+ hopefully). With the joins on the outer edges and dipped in melted nylon to prevent them fraying. I know it may be a bit on the heavy side but most of the ground I cover is full of entanglements.

 

I have seen people use differant types of twine for joining onto the running lines. Is there any advantage of this or is it just showing off?

 

Cheers,

 

Nik

[FERRETINGMOUCHER 1]

At least 6z i would say mate but i have not done longnetting before but am planning on doing some daytime with the ferrets this season, im getting a 10z 25 yard just to start me off and see how it goes

 

have a word with gypo joe he'll sort you out

[masterhunter 3]

ill be buying a longnet for the winter. What are the pros and cons of the above thicknesses? Any advice appreciated.

bezza, I use 4z and 6z night and day and find they both catch rabbits well. I do think a 4z net works quicker on the lines than a 6z and it has a faster catch rate. When people phone me to buy nets I ask them whether they are going to use them for daytime use when ferreting or at night. If they say mainly ferreting I suggest they have a 6z as they are made of stronger material and won't break so easily if you snag them.

So basically 4z for night and 6z for ferreting. This is what I find from working both types of nets, But each to there own

regards masterhunter

[Guest The Big Fish]

If you want to learn phone up Bridport Nets and they will be happy to start you off and show you how it is done.

 

Eggsqueeze me! Who showed you how to knit a net?

 

 

I have seen people use differant types of twine for joining onto the running lines. Is there any advantage of this or is it just showing off?

Just showing off

[mole catcher 1]

showing off your net making skills it maybe but more than likely its because of the following.

 

1,adding a double mesh salvedge from a slightly thicker twine is common practice on bespoke handmade nets, the reason behind this is that this is where most of the ware happens through friction of the net running back and forth along the running line ( this in itself is another debate)

2, as for the colour, well its just how the twine comes.

 

 

[FERRETBOY 680]

1,adding a double mesh salvedge from a slightly thicker twine is common practice on bespoke handmade nets, the reason behind this is that this is where most of the ware happens through friction of the net running back and forth along the running line

 

couldnt ever get my head round that.may i ask how do you knit the double salvage?thats a lovely looking net you have mole catcher.

 

good hunting

 

rew

Edited July 12, 2007 by REW

[Guest Rabbiteer]

If you want to learn phone up Bridport Nets and they will be happy to start you off and show you how it is done.

 

Eggsqueeze me! Who showed you how to knit a net?

 

 

I have seen people use differant types of twine for joining onto the running lines. Is there any advantage of this or is it just showing off?

Just showing off

 

 

I will be the first to admit that you were the person who I learnt to make a net from.

 

however I dont want to put your name forwards to every sole on here as a Net Tutor.

 

Didn't want to get into trouble..............................

 

The question about the salvage was genuine? I have to admit it does look great and now the function has been explained I would be really really interested in learning how to do it.

 

Ever your faithful student,

 

Nik