danfloun 0 Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 Hi, I recently dragged out my airsporter from the closet which I got about 10 year ago second hand from the gunsmiths in Beverley, North Yorkshire. Thought I might tune her up a bit. I need to identify her. Serial is hard to read, It looks to me as though it says G117656 Can someone help me identify this thing and perhaps let me know whether they respond well to tuning? I've heard some of the AirSporters do and some don't. I've already been looking at the Chambers website, he couldn't help much with the identification. Thanks Danny Quote Link to post
andyfr1968 772 Posted April 2, 2009 Report Share Posted April 2, 2009 (edited) Have you tried contacting BSA? Can you post any detailed clear pics of your gun? Airsporters can be rather random, if you've a good one, it may be worth spending a few quid on but the quality control BSA had through the 's and early 90's was crap! The main problem of the Airsporter was the alinement of the loading tap with the barrel. Try fireing a pellet into something so that you can see exactly what it looks like. If you can see the rifle marks perfectly all around the pellet after it's been fired, then it's ok. If, however, it looks as if part of it's been shaved off, it's a duffer and not worth going any further. Getting the tap lined up correctly will cost more than the gun's worth. Good luck! Edited April 2, 2009 by andyfr1968 Quote Link to post
danfloun 0 Posted April 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Have you tried contacting BSA? Can you post any detailed clear pics of your gun?Airsporters can be rather random, if you've a good one, it may be worth spending a few quid on but the quality control BSA had through the 's and early 90's was crap! The main problem of the Airsporter was the alinement of the loading tap with the barrel. Try fireing a pellet into something so that you can see exactly what it looks like. If you can see the rifle marks perfectly all around the pellet after it's been fired, then it's ok. If, however, it looks as if part of it's been shaved off, it's a duffer and not worth going any further. Getting the tap lined up correctly will cost more than the gun's worth. Good luck! Hi, Sorry for the delay in responding. I've been away for a bit. I will get some better pics over the next day or two and I shall get a fired pellet for examination. I honestly think it's okay in that respect. It's had little work and it's in good condition with the tap still firm to open and shut. Looking at Chambers diagrams I now expect it could be a MK4 as some of the MK4's start with GI with the 'I' being the nearest looking to the serial on my AirSporter. I tested it on a Chronograph yesterday and it puts out 9.9 ft. lbs using AA Fields (16 grain). Mind you I only shot one pellet through it so next time I'll get the average of maybe 10 shots. One thing I have noticed is that the recoil is a little violent in that the underlever sometimes pops off the latch on firing. It's not warn though, nothing looks warn. I have no idea whether it's the original spring or not, I would think it is though. Danny Quote Link to post
johnbaz 363 Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 dan i'm fairly sure there are too many numerals in that serial#, if it was just a G then it would be a mk1 and dated 1848/54 and would have a tap that opens as you cock the gun but i suspect it's GI which would mean it was produced between 1969/71 and would be a mk4... here'sa a resource that took me ages to type out, it gives info on old beesas, production dates, cal etc.. >bsa production dates< regards, john Quote Link to post
andyfr1968 772 Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) Hi, Dan. If the recoil's up but the power's down you may well have an air leak. Try takeing the loading tap out and smear a liitle graphite grease on it. Don't use moly grease round there, as it's too prone to combust. The piston seal on those ain't too clever either. It's a simple rubber 'o' ring and they dry out over time. Best replaced. Take care when re-fitting, as it's easy to trap the seal in the cylinder's slot when pushing the piston back in. Cheers. Edited April 12, 2009 by andyfr1968 Quote Link to post
danfloun 0 Posted April 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 dan i'm fairly sure there are too many numerals in that serial#, if it was just a G then it would be a mk1 and dated 1848/54 and would have a tap that opens as you cock the gun but i suspect it's GI which would mean it was produced between 1969/71 and would be a mk4... here'sa a resource that took me ages to type out, it gives info on old beesas, production dates, cal etc.. >bsa production dates< regards, john Hi John, Yes that's pretty much the conclusion I've arrived at! On the attached picture I posted, the second character does look almost like an L but that horizontal part of the L is not part of the stamped serial, it's just a blotch that the camera has enhanced. I do think it's a MK4 now (GI) but here are some more pictures of the gun if anyone can confirm. Cheers Danny Quote Link to post
danfloun 0 Posted April 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 (edited) Hi, Dan.If the recoil's up but the power's down you may well have an air leak. Try takeing the loading tap out and smear a liitle graphite grease on it. Don't use moly grease round there, as it's too prone to combust. The piston seal on those ain't too clever either. It's a simple rubber 'o' ring and they dry out over time. Best replaced. Take care when re-fitting, as it's easy to trap the seal in the cylinder's slot when pushing the piston back in. Cheers. Okay cheers for the heads up buddy. I've go to work on it next week Pictures here if you can confirm it's a MK4 Photos Edited April 12, 2009 by danfloun Quote Link to post
andyfr1968 772 Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Hi, Dan.If the recoil's up but the power's down you may well have an air leak. Try takeing the loading tap out and smear a liitle graphite grease on it. Don't use moly grease round there, as it's too prone to combust. The piston seal on those ain't too clever either. It's a simple rubber 'o' ring and they dry out over time. Best replaced. Take care when re-fitting, as it's easy to trap the seal in the cylinder's slot when pushing the piston back in. Cheers. Okay cheers for the heads up buddy. I've go to work on it next week Pictures here if you can confirm it's a MK4 Photos Looking at those, I think it is. Quote Link to post
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.