aaronpigeonplucker 32 Posted August 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 (edited) thanks SS. i think i need to take a little more time deciding which gun to get. what is the usual price for 20 gauge cartridges? Edited August 21, 2009 by aaronpigeonplucker Quote Link to post
Sexy_Shot 5 Posted August 21, 2009 Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 hiya aaron, im getting a W&S s/s 12g, , the W&S is my brothers old one and im getting it for Free and its a great gun, he is going to discontinue his cert, and said he dont want anything for it so whooop Cheers Trevor Quote Link to post
Sterry 0 Posted August 21, 2009 Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 For game catrirdge shot size no.5, 20bore will be about £6-7 where as 28 bore will be upward of £9, all these are for boxes of 25....so pretty steep on the 28 bore front. I would suggest a 20 as you can always use light loads about 24g when you first use it the progress to what i used to use 30-32g....agreed thats alot of lead in cartridge of that size. Really think about whether getting a shotgun is the right thing to do as the police wont like granting a shotgun to "a kid" just because he wants one. You have to understand that age is obviously, not a problem as such but a big consideration,to the police where firearms are concerned. When i applied for mine i was 12, but i did have a uncle who was a gamekeeper and i was out 3-4 times a week, i was interveiwed for 3 1/2 hours, the FAO also spoke to my parents, my sister and my uncle just to get a good idea. Even When i got my OWN gun, the licencing team rang my uncle up for reassurance of my character and just to reassure them further i have invited them to join me for a days pigeon shooting, just to show my co-operation aswell as showing them that i am a responsible gun user. Its just one of those things you have to accept, and quite rightly too. If you have questions, i'll be more than happy to help as i've been through it all. Quote Link to post
aaronpigeonplucker 32 Posted August 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 thanks sterry. i would ge getting no.6s mainly as i have read that if you want a general cartridge for rabbit and pigeon then these are the way to go. what are the main advantages between say a 24gr and a 32g cartridge? would a heavier load for bigger quarry? sorry these questions must seem stupid... Quote Link to post
Sterry 0 Posted August 21, 2009 Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 Just more lead basically, denser pattern but you lose a tiny bit in the pattern i.e a few fliers but thats more to do with what choke your using. Given the choice for a all round cartridge PERSONALLY it would be 5s for rabbits,pigeons,phesant, (possibly bit much for partridge but on a mixed day...) non toxic 5s for ducks. just got that lil bit more "punch" but try a box of each and choose for yourself that reminds me....eley vip bismuth no5 in 20 bore are about the best non toxic cartridge at a half sensible price. just keep in mind Quote Link to post
aaronpigeonplucker 32 Posted August 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 Just more lead basically, denser pattern but you lose a tiny bit in the pattern i.e a few fliers but thats more to do with what choke your using. Given the choice for a all round cartridge PERSONALLY it would be 5s for rabbits,pigeons,phesant, (possibly bit much for partridge but on a mixed day...) non toxic 5s for ducks. just got that lil bit more "punch" but try a box of each and choose for yourself that reminds me....eley vip bismuth no5 in 20 bore are about the best non toxic cartridge at a half sensible price. just keep in mind ok thanks, one last question: how do chokes work? Quote Link to post
SportingShooter 0 Posted August 21, 2009 Report Share Posted August 21, 2009 Personally, I don't see the need to be firing 32g of lead through a 20 bore, to me it defeats the object of having one. Anyway..... Chokes. Chokes are all about personal preference and the ability to kill your quarry cleanly. Choke is one of the most misunderstood subjects associated with Shotgunning. Choke is designed to put the correct amount of pellets in the kill zone. If you are firing a light load, then generally you have a tighter choke to compensate for fewer pellets in the pattern. If you have a heavy load, then you have a more open choke as the amount of pellets will be sufficient. Choke is very basically a way of regulating how tight a pattern will be with a particular load, the choke restrictions run from True Cylinder which is no restriction at all to Full choke where the last few inches of the barrel are constricted by a few thousandths of an inch. Quote Link to post
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