just bought hornady 58g v-max

[arveyboy 0]

i just bought some of these for my .243 and was wondering why they are moly-coated and whether they're any good as a bullet. ive never seen moly-coated bullet heads before and i assumed they'd be the regular ones.

 

also what powder weights and C.O.L. should i use for these. ive found loads of data but none for Vit N150 so what range powder weights should i be doing?

 

Cheers, Jack

[SNAP SHOT 194]

you will need to give the barrel a very good clean if you change from moly coated bullets, you can still shoot non coated

 

 

 

Snap.

[sounder 9]

you will need to give the barrel a very good clean if you change from moly coated bullets, you can still shoot non coated

 

 

 

Snap.

what the best to use moly coated or non coated,

cheers sounder

[SportingShooter 0]

you will need to give the barrel a very good clean if you change from moly coated bullets, you can still shoot non coated

 

 

 

Snap.

what the best to use moly coated or non coated,

cheers sounder

Depends on how you weigh them up really.

 

Moly Coated is meant to increase velocity by reducing friction. On the down side, is very difficult to get rid of from the barrel.

 

Non or Copper coated, then easier to clean at the expense of a small amount of velocity loss and possible slightly more barrel wear.

 

Hornady have an interesting read on their website about it somewhere

[SNAP SHOT 194]

Sounder i prefer non coated myself, as the ammount of velocity lost is neither here nor there, As for barrel wear, i think it neither here nor there either in a hunting rifle.....

[dicehorn 38]

Sounder i prefer non coated myself, as the ammount of velocity lost is neither here nor there, As for barrel wear, i think it neither here nor there either in a hunting rifle.....

 

This about sums up moly. It came in with a tremendous fanfare everyone clambered for it including the bench rest boys - its only now a few die hards that insist its fantastic.

 

Yes I tried it - takes about 20 shots to get your bore run in to moly. bullets were accurate but no better than non moly and (at the time) were more expensive. Took me about 6 hours to remove the moly from the bore.

 

I think a lot of the gun shops sum up its popularity - when you phone them and ask "have you got any **grain heads?" Their reply "yes but only in moly" Its become a very limited market

 

N150 is a very good powder Arveyboy - I use it in both my 22.250s. Probably the reason you cannot find a recipe for N150 and 58gr for the 243 may be down to the fact that this combination does not suit. If you are going to use the 58gr then H414 & Varget may produce good results. Seat your heads around SAAMI length and work forward from there

 

Was it me that said reloading was no fun on another thread? I take that back - Yes reloading is fun - fun spending good money on different powders, heads and primers that probably wont work in your rifle

[SNAP SHOT 194]

Sounder i prefer non coated myself, as the ammount of velocity lost is neither here nor there, As for barrel wear, i think it neither here nor there either in a hunting rifle.....

 

This about sums up moly. It came in with a tremendous fanfare everyone clambered for it including the bench rest boys - its only now a few die hards that insist its fantastic.

 

Yes I tried it - takes about 20 shots to get your bore run in to moly. bullets were accurate but no better than non moly and (at the time) were more expensive. Took me about 6 hours to remove the moly from the bore.

 

I think a lot of the gun shops sum up its popularity - when you phone them and ask "have you got any **grain heads?" Their reply "yes but only in moly" Its become a very limited market

 

N150 is a very good powder Arveyboy - I use it in both my 22.250s. Probably the reason you cannot find a recipe for N150 and 58gr for the 243 may be down to the fact that this combination does not suit. If you are going to use the 58gr then H414 & Varget may produce good results. Seat your heads around SAAMI length and work forward from there

 

Was it me that said reloading was no fun on another thread? I take that back - Yes reloading is fun - fun spending good money on different powders, heads and primers that probably wont work in your rifle

 

 

This is true mate, AB, the best advice i can give you now is to buy a good reloading book, and see which powder works with the greatest range of bullets you wish to shoot....

 

then you will not waste lots of money trying dirrerent loads and powders, stick to one or two brands of powder..... and the same with bullet heads no more then 4 weights or brands..

 

this will keep the costs down..... as you will not have to keep load developing.....

 

Snap.

[arveyboy 0]

when i bought them i did'nt even know they were moly-coated. i havn't bothered loading any as i can't see the point in wasting hours cleaning the bore of my rifle.

 

well considering my quarry is muntjac i was thinking that 87g bullet heads would do the job nicely. however i am keen to try some of the hornady 58g v-max (very flat shooting) so would varget be a good powder for both? cheers, Jack

[SNAP SHOT 194]

varget is a great powder for both.......... go with the 87g bthp by hornady for the munties.....

 

snap.

[arveyboy 0]

ok cheers snap. i'll pop in to see the dealer today. what should i do about the moly-coated? send them back?

[SNAP SHOT 194]

ok cheers snap. i'll pop in to see the dealer today. what should i do about the moly-coated? send them back?

 

 

See if he will change them for other bullets you want, if not try selling them to someone you know shoots them..... if you get varget give me a shout.

[Jonty 0]

OP, you can use acetone (its commercially available as nail varnish remover) to remove the moly. I've done it myself.

[arveyboy 0]

is it effective??

[Jonty 0]

is it effective??

 

 

yeah, if you can get pure acetone, and are prepared to do a lot of scrubbing