Plank
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Everything posted by Plank
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I am a smallholder. Sometimes I use poison against rats. Occasionally I have noticed the poison had been covered up with dead leaves and things. Most recently my elderly neighbour was worried about a rat in her greenhouse and asked for help. I used poison as I have a lockable bait box and she has grandchildren. The next day the 90 degree turn from the tunnel through the box to the poison chamber was stuffed with leaves. She said no-one had been near it and her grandchildren had not visited. On another occasion I was putting poison down in an open dish in a secure garage. The poison had bee
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I can not claim to be experienced at trapping Jackdaws, but I have kept cows. I would expect them to treat your trap as a scratching post, which could cause it serious grief. If, by any chance, there was an electric fence you could run off a spur as an open ring around the trap. With permission of course.
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If you'll forgive a daft question from a novice, is the sponge under the whole trap to stop it freezing to the ground?
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<Quote> I put them flush to the ground In the outside tunnels where the earth is softer and not baited, but inside the buildings where it has wooden floors I just pop them in a tunnel with I small pile of layers pellets in the middle,had over 90 rats this summer with many being young ones I use the mk4 fens they are sensitive enough for the youngsters sometimes if two were nibbling on the ones with bait I would octet get s double catch in one trap. <Quote> I've now tried bedding the traps into the ground, and been rewarded with young rats.
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Thanks for your reply. That is where the traps are. I had seen young rats using the tunnels as cover when moving about without triggering the trap, which was when I started using the peanut butter.
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So mk4 is more sensitive than mk6. Thanks for the quick reply.
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Hello, I've got an orchard with several chicken pens in, and some rats. I've been trying to trap them with two mk6 Springers in separate run-through tunnels. I've placed the tunnels over rat runs and bait them with pig pellets, the trigger plates I smear with peanut butter. While I've successfully caught larger rats there are also young part-grown rats which I believe have started robbing the traps without triggering them. I've read on here that you can put peanut butter under the triggers to make it more likely for the traps to go off but it doesn't seem to be working. I am spending time
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Thanks folks I'm sorted now for Glenn waters. Can anyone recommend a DVD that covers trapping rabbits and/or rats with Fenns? Also, probably an unusual question, but any recommendations for the title of a DVD that covers fieldcraft? Identifying what kind of animal made what trail, that sort of thing.
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I'm after his fox snaring, mink trapping, rabbit snaring and bodygrip trapping DVDs. Can anyone help me out please?
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Am pleased to report that Puppy has almost stopped biting and having been told "No" when held is now taking notice of being just being told "No" at other times.
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Ankles makes it kinda hard to walk though. The puppy lives with my Mum who is regularly, like a couple of times a day, visited by adult family members. So we can co-ordinate pretty easily. But a fierce, loud "No" doesn't seem to have any effect. Whether it's biting, trying to eat it's own poop, knocking over the bin or whatever it's one determined little puppy.
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Sounds like it would work for hands. Any suggestions what to do for ankles?
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Unfortunately the puppy bites ankles as well as hands.
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For the whole time she had her my mother's new puppy has mouthed with pressure. It's her favorite game and she keeps wanting to play. My mother has tried a loud "Ouch" and withdrawing, after a few days when this had no affect Mum adopted a firm "No". Early this morning the puppy drew blood. Mum in now trying a firm (but not hard) smack on the puppy when it bites, which is all the time. This is really taking the shine off the puppy for Mum. What else can she do?
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Fair enough, I was just quoting an article in an old copy of 'Smallholder' magazine.
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We were considering supplementing with rabbit when she is older but we wanted a suitable proprietary food for now as GSD are prone to hip trouble so AFAIK we want restricted protein for steady growth. As an aside, when we went to the vet there was a beautiful looking GSD three years old, but it couldn't sit properly with it's bad hips. The owner said that it was just a matter of months until it's chronic pain would mean it needed to be put down. When we've fed supplementary raw to previous dogs they've not only been more alert but also more active. From what I've read young dogs with sof
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Unfortunately the regular vet, who we've always been impressed with, was off sick and we had a locum.
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The Breeder raised my mother's new pup on Burns then switched the litter to Baker's to go to there new homes. While it seems a good pup, the vet said it was big for an eight week old German shepherd(5.5kg). I was hoping for some advice from the vet as I'd heard that Baker's isn't a great food, but the vet was non-committal about what would be a good food to choose. I have heard good things about Chudley's puppy. Has anyone got any experience with it? We don't want the pup to grow too fast and get joint trouble later.
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Thanks I'll go for the 2"x2".
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Under ideal conditions commercial hens can make eggs more quickly than other chickens, about twenty three and a half hours. So it is indeed possible that they can lay twice a day, but not twice every day.
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I'm making a tunnel for my first Fenn trap, a mark 6. In 'Trap making step by step' Bryan says to make the hole in the end of the tunnel 2"x2" for rats (pg 97). This post http://tinyurl.com/6b9o77h describes a 3"x3" fencing. Which is best for rats? I got a pair of "Little Nipper" type spring traps from Poundland. Bryan describes spring trap boxes for these type of traps but only gives the fencing size for rats (pg 99). What size for mice? I'm pretty sure there are no rats in that building, but there's always a first time and I'd hate for them to trigger a trap not big enough to kill. I
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Then I'd collect them once or twice daily, write the date on and keep them in the fridge. Not to get extra eggs but to keep them fresher and discourage the hens from eating them, a habit they can develop when board.
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They may lay a couple more if you remove the eggs as they may be slightly slower to become broody, but the real advantage is in quality. Removing them regularly will enable you to keep track of how old they are, you can pencil the date on. It will keep them fresher as they won't warm and cool, eggs stay fresh at a constant temp that is why eating eggs are on a supermarket shelf (room temp air-con) but the packet says to keep in the fridge (cooler but still constant). It will also stop the chickens from getting into the habit of eating them. If you are hoping that the chicken will becom
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Thanks. There are lots of Magpies about just now, I think there fledglings. I've only got one Larson and it fills up as fast as I can empty it. It's a shame your so far away or you could have plenty of new call birds.
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How wet? Most of the country has had drought for months if the ground is still 'very wet' how wet will it be when it starts raining? That could make it liable to poach, difficult for you and muddy for the geese. Muddy goslings with no-where to go could get ill. Could it actually start to flood? Geese often benefit from grass to graze, you might need to keep low stock density to protect the ground and keep the grass. Plus if the reeds are long they might need to be kept trimmed to stop them clogging up the geese's insides if they ate them.