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ian118118

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Posts posted by ian118118

  3. Brocock Or Ultra

    in General Airgun Discussion

    Posted

    Thinking of selling my. 22 bsa ultra se if that's the route you choose. Got it new in March just don't like the low shot count as has been mentioned. Feel free to message if your interested. Iv never owned the brocock so can't compare the two but the ultra is is very light, accurate and quiet.

  11. For Sale. Guns And Gun Cabinet

    in Gun's and Rifle's

    Posted

    For Sale is a .22 AA S410F, This is in immaculate condition and comes with a hawke 4-12x50 IR Scope, it also comes with a bipod, padded gunbad and pump (with fittings)

    I am after £500 for this

     

     

    I also have a old relum tornado for sale, I have no idea how this shoots as I only fired it when I brought it, this is in .22 and will come with a gunslip that it came with, I am after £50 for this

     

    I am also selling a .22 Crossman 2240 air pistol and want £50 for this

     

     

    Finally I am selling a gun cabinet which holds up to 5 guns and is "crossbar proof" and meets requirements for FAC I would like £65 for this.

     

     

    Will send pictures by email as they are too big to upload apparently.

     

     

    atb

    Ian

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  13. Hw97K Tuning

    in Rifle Reviews, Technical Help and Tips

    Posted

    Hello all, Il start by saying that I have just started a project and would like some opinions. I have owned a Hw97k for a while now but over the last few months I have not been using it as I brought an AAS410F. I decided I could use the 97K as a project to see just how little recoil and noise can be achieved from a springer. Tonight after I finished work I got home and had nothing to do, so the project began! I started off by stripping down the Hw97k, as you do. I then proceeded to clean all of the lube off of the internal parts. I would like to add at this point that my 97K did have the back block glued to the cylinder. However it still came off after a few swift hits onto an old spanner I had lying around which matched the size of where the trigger was ( close enough!)

     

    I then measured all of the parts and this was what I recorded (results are in metric and results may be + - up to 0.02):

     

    Piston

     

    Outside diameter 25.57

    Inside diameter 22.00

    Width of the pistons shaft which moves into the trigger mechanism 9.80

    Length of piston 140.56

    Length with the shaft included 169.65 (approximately?)

    Thickness 1.68

    Slot diameter 5.30

    Depth inside piston 124.74

     

    Piston seal outside diameter 26.08

    Length 10.32

     

    Factory fitted washer 1.06

    Rubber O'ring which appears to hold the washer in place 1.48

     

    Spring

     

    Wire diameter 3.07 (average)

    Length 230.86 (was hard to accurately measure)

    Internal diameter 14.04 down to 13.91

    Outside diameter 20.21 down to 20.07

     

     

    Spring Guide

     

    Washer on spring guide outside diameter 29.81

    Washer on spring guide inside diameter 13.98

    Thickness 3.01

     

    Guide length 99.99

    outside diameter 13.74- 13.54

    Inside diameter 10.01- 10.05

    Thickness 1.75 ( measured from the top of the spring guide)

     

    Compression tube

     

    Outer diameter 29.72

    Internal diameter 25.98

    Thickness 1.96 (measured from the back of the compression tube)

    Length 154.27

    Internal length 143.99

    Diameter at the end of the tube where the seal sits 11.98

     

    Trigger block

     

    Internal diameter for the piston to slide into 10.02

    Length from front of back block to touching the main sear where the piston would engage 22.98

     

     

     

     

    Now I am wondering what the next step could be? I have a old Rekord trigger unit which was made in 1981 which is a lot smoother than the newer one so I am going to be using that instead. I have taken apart the older Rekord Unit and made sure everything is okay inside and gave it a quick polish and put it back together. I have also polished to piston tonight and gave the cocking slot a smoothen.

     

    I am asking what you guys would recommend A) manufacture new parts so that they sit tighter together inside ( still allowing smooth movement) and making as little movement as possible sideways. Or B) Use the standard factory parts and alter a few things I.E place a sleeve inside the piston and button the piston + comp tube.

     

    I would also like to hear from anyone who has used graphite as a lube inside their airguns as I am toying with the idea.

     

     

    Any opinions very welcome

     

     

    Ian.

     

     

     

  19. Good .177

    in Rifle Reviews, Technical Help and Tips

    Posted

    stop talking shite arseholes if ya ask on this site I aint no divvy so think if ya got nothing intresting to say keep ya trap shut ya bunch a knobs or come and see me

    I don't usually reply on here but you sound like a right numpty. Did you not even think to search first to see if your question was asked before?

     

    1) 80 yards is to far, far too many factors come into play at this range for an airgun. If the rabbits on your permission get scared easily then get a little RF like a .22LR.

     

    2) If you "aint no divvy" then try formulating an actual sentence. Abusing the people who contribute usefully to this forum will get you no help.

    • Like 1

  25. Hw97K And 2240

    in Gun's and Rifle's

    Posted

    Hello I have 2 guns I am willing to swap, would and wondering what people would be willing to swap for. The first is a HW97k .22 air rifle which was brought 3 weeks ago. It is in perfect condition and not a mark or scratch anywhere to be seen excellent blueing and a lovely stock. The second is a Crosman 2240 air pistol .22 which is a few months old and I have roughly 15/16 co2 capsules to go with it. Will upload pictures later. I'm located in Northamptonshire.

     

     

    ATVB

    Ian

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