How Many Meshes Deep?

[steamingutpiles 117]

After reading all this good stuff on making longnets, I'm going to have a crack at making a couple of my own. I'm going to use 31/2" 12 ply netting how much drop should I use? (number of meshes). Will it matter much if both top and bottom lines are not selvedged?

[bobcullen79 1,495]

Im not sure what 3.1/2 12 strand is, but it sounds a bit over kill, the twine sounds thick and the mesh size maybe a tad small.

When I used sheet netting,(6z) I just cut to lenth and put a running line on, I left the kill as it was, which was fine. The mesh I bought had doubled up edges, effectively a built in selvedge.

On the one I`m making from scratch, I`m using a 2-1/8 mesh board, which will gimme a 4-1/4 mesh. It will be 14 meshes deep and I`ll be adding a selvedge mesh top and bottom, making it 16 meshes deep. Your net will work without a selvedge mesh, but over time and use, your lines will burn through your net, a selvedge with help prevent this and is easy enough to replace.

Hope Ive not been trying to teach you to suck eggs.

[Tiercel 6,986]

Im not sure what 3.1/2 12 strand is, but it sounds a bit over kill, the twine sounds thick and the mesh size maybe a tad small.

When I used sheet netting,(6z) I just cut to lenth and put a running line on, I left the kill as it was, which was fine. The mesh I bought had doubled up edges, effectively a built in selvedge.

On the one I`m making from scratch, I`m using a 2-1/8 mesh board, which will gimme a 4-1/4 mesh. It will be 14 meshes deep and I`ll be adding a selvedge mesh top and bottom, making it 16 meshes deep. Your net will work without a selvedge mesh, but over time and use, your lines will burn through your net, a selvedge with help prevent this and is easy enough to replace.

Hope Ive not been trying to teach you to suck eggs.

 

Adding a selevedge row top and bottom will make the net 15 meshes deep not 16.

 

TC

[bobcullen79 1,495]

Oh right, cheers. Is that cause its technically only half a mesh you add each side?

[steamingutpiles 117]

Im not sure what 3.1/2 12 strand is, but it sounds a bit over kill, the twine sounds thick and the mesh size maybe a tad small.

When I used sheet netting,(6z) I just cut to lenth and put a running line on, I left the kill as it was, which was fine. The mesh I bought had doubled up edges, effectively a built in selvedge.

On the one I`m making from scratch, I`m using a 2-1/8 mesh board, which will gimme a 4-1/4 mesh. It will be 14 meshes deep and I`ll be adding a selvedge mesh top and bottom, making it 16 meshes deep. Your net will work without a selvedge mesh, but over time and use, your lines will burn through your net, a selvedge with help prevent this and is easy enough to replace.

Hope Ive not been trying to teach you to suck eggs.

 

Mate, I appreciate you taking the time to respond. I don't propose to know it all,. thats why I ask questions to the members on here. The only netting available locally suitable for long nets is 4 oz fishing net with 3 1/2 mesh, 100 or so meshes deep. I going to adapt a couple to see how they turn out. I figure that 20 or so meshes at that size might probably to the trick. Any input will be appreciated...........

[bobcullen79 1,495]

No worrys mate, I`m new to it too, Ive used plenty but not made many. You can only work with what you have.

We used to make purse nets out of tennis court nets when we were kids

If its 3-1/2 inch mesh, 20 deep sounds about right, better to have plenty of bagging and kill, then not enough. Have you checked out the sticky at the top of the page regarding how to add a selvedge mesh? Some useful info there..

[Tiercel 6,986]

Oh right, cheers. Is that cause its technically only half a mesh you add each side?

 

Yep, a lot of people get confused between meshes and rows. It takes two rows to make a mesh.

 

 

 

Adding a selvedge mesh.

 

 

TC

Edited October 24, 2012 by tiercel

[bobcullen79 1,495]

He`s pretty fast whoever he is. Only single knotting though. Is there a reason he`s only doing singles? Easier to remove/repair?

[Tiercel 6,986]

He`s pretty fast whoever he is. Only single knotting though. Is there a reason he`s only doing singles? Easier to remove/repair?

 

That is me. I am only doing a single knot as that is all it takes with that twine. the net is a 100 yard rigged double stranded spun poly, with a Agouti purse net twine as a slevedge.

 

The net set up ready to start the selvedges.

 

 

One side done.

 

 

Both sides done and ready to be dyed.

 

 

TC

Edited October 25, 2012 by tiercel

[Joonsy 38]

if you mean 31/2'' full mesh it's way too small for a long net, don't waste your time and get the right size net to begin with which is 4-41/4'' full mesh.

[steamingutpiles 117]

He`s pretty fast whoever he is. Only single knotting though. Is there a reason he`s only doing singles? Easier to remove/repair?

 

That is me. I am only doing a single knot as that is all it takes with that twine. the net is a 100 yard rigged double stranded spun poly, with a Agouti purse net twine as a slevedge.

 

The net set up ready to start the selvedges.

 

 

One side done.

 

 

Both sides done and ready to be dyed.

 

 

TC

Excellent work! I have a couple more questions for you. I have to cut a net which has 100 meshes drop. Is there a major issue with adding a selvedged mesh to the cut ends??? Has anyone done it? Is it worth doing????

[bobcullen79 1,495]

You will be able to unpick the knots down the edges if you cut it right, next to the knot.

If you choose not to, the tag ends and old knot will get caught when tying on your selvedge.

Nice work Tiecel, when you say 100yd rigged, is that a 200yd lenth then? Ive done 12 yards of a 50 so far thats gonna be rigged as a 25yd.

[Tiercel 6,986]

Excellent work! I have a couple more questions for you. I have to cut a net which has 100 meshes drop. Is there a major issue with adding a selvedged mesh to the cut ends??? Has anyone done it? Is it worth doing????

 

When I first started I used cut down fishing nets. Usually old nets as I was a fisherman, they had joins and repaired holes everywhere but they still caught rabbits. You can put a selvedge on if you want. But, if you don't that does not mean the the net will not work properly. As too the idea that a double selvedge is better than one it just does not hold up.

 

Think about it, Some say that the friction of the net running the lines will cause the net to wear where it is in contact with the running lines. Is the friction any the less for a 25 yard net than a 50 yard net? Yet the 50 yard net has double the amount of selvedges in contact with the running lines than the 25 yard net.

 

For a hand made net selvedges serve a purpose and it has nothing to do with friction. Selvedges on a hand made net serve to negate the memory of the net for the way it was knitted. Let me try and explain, ( I know what I am on about but I don't know if I can tell you so that you know what I am talking about ) A loom knitted net is knitted in rows of 1800 meshes that gives you a net with a diamond that hangs top to bottom /\ .

 

A hand knitted net is knitted in rows of13,14,15 meshes whatever size you want but when the net is set horizontal the meshes tend to stretch out <> so when you add the selvedge it helps stop the net having a memory of the way it was knitted.

 

That said as you have been told 3.5" is too small for rabbits to get their head through therefore does not work as well as the larger size meshes. However, if you were to use that 3.5" mesh in a trammel net they work brilliantly and catch a lot of smaller rabbits that would get through a 4" mesh.

 

 

when you say 100yd rigged, is that a 200yd length then?

 

Yep, 15 meshes wide with the selvedges 4.25" mesh a 63" stretched drop.

 

TC

Edited October 26, 2012 by tiercel

[bobcullen79 1,495]

Excellent work! I have a couple more questions for you. I have to cut a net which has 100 meshes drop. Is there a major issue with adding a selvedged mesh to the cut ends??? Has anyone done it? Is it worth doing????

 

When I first started I used cut down fishing nets. Usually old nets as I was a fisherman, they had joins and repaired holes everywhere but they still caught rabbits. You can put a selvedge on if you want. But, if you don't that does not mean the the net will not work properly. As too the idea that a double selvedge is better than one it just does not hold up.

 

Think about it, Some say that the friction of the net running the lines will cause the net to wear where it is in contact with the running lines. Is the friction any the less for a 25 yard net than a 50 yard net? Yet the 50 yard net has double the amount of selvedges in contact with the running lines than the 25 yard net.

 

For a hand made net selvedges serve a purpose and it has nothing to do with friction. Selvedges on a hand made net serve to negate the memory of the net for the way it was knitted. Let me try and explain, ( I know what I am on about but I don't know if I can tell you so that you know what I am talking about ) A loom knitted net is knitted in rows of 1800 meshes that gives you a net with a diamond that hangs top to bottom /\ .

 

A hand knitted net is knitted in rows of13,14,15 meshes whatever size you want but when the net is set horizontal the meshes tend to stretch out <> so when you add the selvedge it helps stop the net having a memory of the way it was knitted.

 

That said as you have been told 3.5" is too small for rabbits to get their head through therefore does not work as well as the larger size meshes. However, if you were to use that 3.5" mesh in a trammel net they work brilliantly and catch a lot of smaller rabbits that would get through a 4" mesh.

 

 

when you say 100yd rigged, is that a 200yd length then?

 

Yep, 15 meshes wide with the selvedges 4.25" mesh a 63" stretched drop.

 

TC

Very nice mate. I was just on about selvedge making the hang of the net better in another thread to Paulus when he suggested square mesh. Have you used a bigger mesh board for the selvedge, if so, can you explain why please. Im not picking holes TC, Im just genuinely interested mate.

[Tiercel 6,986]

I have dabbled with the rigging of nets in almost every way possible. Yet still come back to the same way of rigging nets, as it is the best way. A larger selvedge is of no advantage at all, except meybe to give you a little extra depth on the net. The reason being, when you stretch out a net the maximum distance a mesh can achive is the size of the mesh, for the sake of an easy explanation we will say 4".. If you were to use a 2.5" board to create the selvedge row then all you will have done is create an inch of slack on every selvedge mesh. but that slack would not be of any advantage to the net, save the 1" extra depth it provides on the depth of the net.

 

Say for example two rabbits hit the net and pulled all the slack to one end of the net, the rest of the net is stretched taught, save the selvedge mesh which will just be redundant slack becxause the net beneath it is stretched to its maximum 4" yet the selvedge row is 5". I hope I have explained it in a way that is understandable.

 

I once tried to sew in the slack of the net, by joining two meshes on each selvedge on the selvedge row. I liked the idea of have a net rigged by halves permenently. What I did not take into consideration was that becuse I was halving the length of the selvedge row and the net was going to be set by half. there would be no movement in the net.

 

Have a look at this photo you can see where each selvedge has two meshes picked up on it, notice also the meshes stretched tight under the selvedge that is the same effect that a larger selvedge would have when the net is stretched.

 

 

There were 900 meshes in the net rigged by halves it should have made a 25 yard net yet to get that to work it needed to be rigged by a third (that is one third of its stretched length)

 

In fishing terms, long nets are tangle nets, but the above photo is basically how a gill net would work.

 

TC

Edited October 27, 2012 by tiercel