AIR RIFLE HELP NEEDED!!

[ghillies 209]

try chairgun out, it's near enough to actualy use it... the BC (balistics coifetient) is how good the pellet flies, same pellet in different guns/barrels vary in BC. higher it is the less it drops basicaly.

 

oh, draw out a ret on paper, and mark it wheres where, you will forget at some time or other, but dont forget zero'ing at different distances screws it up..or a power change, or weather sometimes alters it a bit.(never zero at the near zero.always the one after, as in at the 30 yard end, at some point around the 10-15 yard mark is the other cross hair spot on, buts way prone to 'alteratios' at the further end each time you zero. basically one click at 10 yards is worth sweat FA in POI moving, at 50 yards the same 1 click moves half an inch 'ish depending on mag etc)

 

pcp's have power curves, first shot on a full bottle is a little less power than some where in the mid range of the fill which is where it peeks (highest power) then it'll drop untill theyre unusable.(for an unregged pcp)

 

a regged pcp usualy just drops in power from full to unuseable shots.(when the powers too low or too hi the shot to shot consistanct sucks). at thirty yards on a rabbits head its not usualy noticeable, at 60 yards you will notice. on a coin edge...yup it matters.

 

dont worry too much in the bigining about the power curve, just find your pellet and where it goes, after that everything else falls into a better place.(then you'll notice it one day..and know why, the guy at the shop will probably 'fix' it for you at a small fee...again, and again and again..)

 

5 feet per second varience shot to shot is plenty accurate, 2 fps shot is reall good,(as in up to 100 yard at legal limits good), bare in mind springers with a good set up are very consistant shot to shot in strings of shots then vary a little then vary back again.

 

heres a big help to setting your gun up (along with chair gun) .... http://www.chronoscopes.com/ (saves a fiver a chuck at a shop). a full fill string of shots is worthy of a bit of cash though, i get 300 shots, well i use 300, can get 450 if i want, its a mawl with acrono at home.. valueable info though.

when you get a full full string on paper you can track the velosity varience shot to shot and overall, you'll find that from the specified fill in bars that about 15-20 shots are a little further apart in consistancey, you only need to fill to the sweet spot, and shoot down to where the consistncy starts to go.(convert the bar in psi, divide by the total number of shots you'll have a good estimate to how much per shot..take away how ever many shots thats your new fill too.) if theres no too big a varience no need for the working out..

 

theres nowt rong in good old fasioned go out and see what it does, but unless you have a 12 month odd, a very good memery and good skills at sussing it.. 20 mins on a pc and 15 mins with a chrono later you can veiw your options for scope height, ret patterns against distance, even magnificasion, and more often than not a resonable firthest hunting distance.(most importantly the ideal zero distance for you to get the most disstance covered on the cross hair, 30's never been any good for me)

(some pouder scales of ebay will set you back another 20-50 quids, get at least 1000'th of a gram, its sufice enough to have a look at how crap or how good the pellet weights are. some are all over the place in weight, and you'll need about 250-300 days a year and up to 16 hours a day shooting to suss that little babey..been there dun that, got the hypothermia T shirt too lol).

 

i learned the hard way... then found the easier way, ermmm...easier way is better for learning quicker, older way is more time consuming but builds 'instinct' a little better, use both.

 

last but not least, is getting a good pellet match to the barrel, thats try a box and see, you'll suss it fairly quick, try them near and far etc.. some are chronic passed 25 yards but exselent rat blater's..

along with that, the barrel cleaning, some pellets like a less clean barrel, wait till the accuracy starts to wander a bit then clean, others you have to bed the barrel in before they become accurate again.. otheres clean away theyre happier at that.

 

du dahhh... unless you know you have to gues, lol..but it takes time to rule out 'theries' as to why.( and lets people meddle in your head with new n wanderfull sinarios).

 

 

velosty, power, scope height, magnification, pellet weight and type....and of course the BC. theyre your options to sort a set up that suits you.(sod the magazine guru's.. they wants yu money).

 

the higher the scope sits, the further away is the ideal 'sweet spot' for shooting through is. the lower the nearer.. hense a 4x32 scope has been a good ratting scope for donkies years and its also why 4x20's are still on sale, theyre about as close to the barrel as you can get without going to open sights, so best at near shooting for more on the cross hair.(4x20 are pap at light gathering though..very accurate though with little in veiw).

 

4x40's are an all rouder day / dusk / lamping, a 4x56 just has wider glass at the front to let a figarative 'more light in', they usualy do.(best coatings on the lenses as you can get make the more difference though.)

 

on a lot of zoom scopes the distance value between dots on a ret changes with the magnification, on 1 mag one dot space will cover about 20 yards or what ever, on 10 mag it covers about 3-5 yards... bare it in mind.(at 10 mag 5 yard shooting is blurry at best at 1 mag its a doosey).

not forgetting that at say 10 yards, one space between a dot is a say a 10 inch stick, at 50 yards its a bigger stick fitting between the dots, say a 30 inch.. its bigger the further away, so at 100 yards a bloke will fit inbtween the same dot space, can be used for measuring distance but...near too its less of a help.

 

thats all fu now lol

Edited January 18, 2012 by ghillies

[Iluke 0]

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[PLEDGEY 493]

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