toblue
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Posts posted by toblue
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Years ago at Harrington Lurcher Show a guy had a Standard Poodle x Greyhound. I don't think it was ever worked but looked the part for day time use. Aggressive bloody thing was trying to attack anything in sight. Looked like a giant Bedlington Saluki type of cross.
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Wev had litters of 11 on a few occasions and all have lived
We have had litter of 7 and lost one.
Most the time the dam lies on one thru the night if you do loose one.
You try your best and that's all you can do.
Proper whelping box with rails cuts down the chances of a smothered pup.
Looking at the photo There is a waste pipe attached around the box which is a great idea when you have a large litter. Socks was obviously well prepared. Nice litter!!
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Nice video. All of the Hares and Roe look in great condition. The hares are massive and heavy compared to our fell hares.... Now I could finish this sentence with a sarky comment but won't LOL.
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Just go for a lurcher to lurcher cross. In most cases 2 good lurchers breed good lurcher pups if some common sense is used when choosing the sire and dam. If the dam is lacking a top gear but is a great mooching dog x her with a fast lurcher.
I have tried going back to the roots of breeding lurchers and to be truthfull it worked ok but was not ground breaking. Don't worry about what blood is in the breeding just breed from (or chose a pup from) 2 good dogs who you think when crossed would give the best of their attributes to their pups. Hit lucky and you will have a star.
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Agree with all of the above posts. Interfere as little as possible they will come out naturally 9 times out of 10, keep things calm and quiet, Its the beach ball that may take some time, there's always one monster in there.
My advice to anyone breeding pups is take her temperature regular when she is due. It will drop rapidly below 100 when she is due to whelp, If nothing is happening within 12 hours after the temp drop and her temperature goes up above normal give the vet a call. Same goes if she is constantly pushing hard (at any point) for a long time (more than 1.5 - 2 hours max) and nothing is happening, call the vet it could be an emergency.
BEST ADVICE ONCE SHE STARTS MAKE A NOTE OF EVERYTHING ON PAPER. TIME SHE HAD FIRST ONE, TIME SHE FIRST STARTED TO PUSH FOR EACH PUP. THE VET WILL NEED THIS INFORMATION IF YOU HAVE PROBLEMS. AN HOUR CAN SEEM LIKE A WEEK IF SHE IS HAVING A HARD TIME. WRITE IT DOWN SO YOU KNOW WHERE YOU ARE AT. DON'T JUST ESTIMATE OR GUESS.
Don't worry if your bitch goes over due. I have had them go 70 days even a few days more if she has had s few consecutive mating's. It can take many hours for a full litter of pups to be born with the bitch often sleeping for a few hours between pups appearing. Big litters are often born in batches of 2-3 and it can take 8 hours or so often with a still born taking a while longer.
If you do need to help with a backward birth keep your hands and nails very clean (AND ONLY EVER PULL VERY GENTLY WHEN SHE PUSSHES) but as a rule leave the bitch be and maybe just help with the removal of the sack around the pups mouth when the pups are born. Your bitch will become VERY stressed at times, don't panic my friend, mother nature generally takes its course, she is ok.
I generally let the bitch eat most of the afterbirths but to many will make her sick. Have plenty of newspaper old towels and bin bags on hand. When she is finished try and get plenty fluid into her maybe add a dash of milk to her water to encourage her but don't give her milk it will just go right through her. If she has a smallish kennel keep an eye out for the first time she empties out after the pups as it will be everywhere and will need cleaned up.
When you are all done do not have the kennel over warm feel the pups if they are warm they are ok. As a rule of thumb quiet pups are happy pups. Finally if your bitch rejects one or if it can't suckle properly don't fight on with it I am afraid in my experience they never make it. Better to sort it out when the pup is a day or two old rather than a week old.
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Around 8-9 I would say. Make sure you have a deck chair and a good book on hand, as I would sit with her during the birth as if she has a good lot it will take hours and just keeping the first borns out of the way when the next is born will be a great comfort for her.
I once had 2 greyhounds pup within 24 hours and ended up with 20 pups at the end of it. That's AI for you.
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Two sets of two sisters, god it seems like 5 minutes ago. They are all grown up now.
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Great pic Lofti.
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Not sure if it would work in this situation but I have used an electric shock collar when I had problems with a dog chasing livestock and another chasing chickens. She was cured within a week. My collar has a 300m range. Fantastic piece of kit gives a warning the dog can hear a few seconds before the shock so after a few shocks you would only need to use the sound effect to correct them.
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You have done the right thing Obi.
If you do get another pup avoid running them up very steep banks or enticing them to jump up on their hind legs for a rag or lure. This injury generally occurs when the dog is fairly young but is more or less fully grown. Best Of Luck.
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Must admit it is not for the faint hearted. You need someone to hold the muzzled dog, go in hard and firm without hesitation. Don't fanny about get it done quickly. Should take about 30 seconds to complete the job. It won't be the most pleasant 30 seconds for your dog but it will save you a vet bill.
If you know a decent greyhound trainer they will more than likely show you how to do it.
I must have done 20 -30 and you can almost see the relief on the dogs face once it is rid of the wart (and rid of the person squashing it out).
They often reoccur on different toes over a period of a few months.
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If it is a true deep seated corn then it is a bigger problem. If it is a wart (white papilloma) it can be squeezed out. It is painful for the dog and you will need a muzzle. It is a bit like squeezing a big zit. Squeeze until it bleeds then squeeze some more to get the core out. Then apply some iodine spray twice a day for a week. If it comes back it means you did not get the core out. Try and get it right the first time as your poor hound will know what is coming second time around.
Swill your pen out with disinfectant or bleach as it is a virus and could spread to other dogs. Warts are most common in younger dogs.
I have no experience of the deep seated callous type corn.
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How are you applying this drops on the back of the neck?? Sorry for being dumb!!When I kept greyhounds I would dose with the sheep wormer Ivomec or Ivermectin if they had mange. Results will be seen within 24 hours and your dogs will also be roundworm free.
IMPORTANT IF YOUR DOG HAS ANY COLLIE OT OTHER TYPE OF HERDING DOG ANYWHERE IN ITS BREEDING DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT. They can be very sensitive to it so be 100% sure any herding dog blood no matter how far back do not use this. It is 100% safe for all other dog breeds. I have used it on 6 week old pups.
Do not use Ivomec Plus, Ivomec Super, or any other products that contain additional active ingredients. Use Ivermectin 0.08% solution made for sheep (sheep drench)
1 cc of ivermectin 0.08% sheep drench solution contains 800 mcg; 0.1 cc =
mcg.The exact dosage for worms is 0.034 cc per 10 pounds of body weight, or approximately 0.1 cc per 30 pounds of body weight. I would double the dose for demodectic mange and dose again in 2 weeks for worms and every week for mange until the redness has gone.
1 cc = 1 ml
Directions for using 0.08% sheep drench for worming
Dosage using Ivermectin 0.08% solution (you may want to double these doses for mange):
up to 14 pounds: 1 drop (0.05 cc)
15 to 29 pounds: 0.1 cc
30 to 58 pounds: 0.2 cc
59 to 88 pounds: 0.3 cc
89 to 117 pounds: 0.4 cc
118 to 147 pounds: 0.5 cc
1 cc of ivermectin 0.08% sheep drench solution contains 800 mcg; 0.1 cc =
mcg ivermectin.The exact dosage is 0.034 cc per 10 pounds of body weight, or approximately 0.1 cc per 30 pounds of body weight.
Orally with a syringe (minus the needle of course) down the back of the throat. Dogs (and sheep) hate the taste of this so squirt it well down and hold their mouths closed with head back until you are sure they have swallowed it. Make sure you get the right stuff, sheep drench 0.08% with no additives like copper and such like. Most online farm stores sell it such as Hyperdrug http://www.hyperdrug.co.uk/Oramec-Drench/productinfo/ORA9007907/ . Great for round worms and mange.
I believe it is also used on humans with scabies.
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By the way £25 would buy an awful lot of Panacur especially if you buy the horse stuff.
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I have posted on this subject here http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/356113-benzoyl-benzoate-for-skin-irritations-mite-etc/page-2
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Ok. That also makes sense to me.
It's Friday, 5pm start on the beer so maybe I have it wrong.
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They look like nice fat, healthy pups Phil. Did the cross Australian Cattle Dog x greyhound work out?
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Ok scammed may have been the wrong thing to say but I have never seen the point in getting an obviously in pup bitch scanned. Just wait you will find out soon enough. I have this deep seated dislike of vets after seeing so many people ripped off.
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Scams (sorry Scans). Never had a one done on any dog, never seen the point, and never had enough money to waste.
Save your money and spend it on some good feed: high quality complete meal or fatty raw beef, pulverised green veg and a calcium supplement.
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This topic reminds me of a time I went to do some ferreting on a farm where I had once worked some 5 or 6 years earlier (it was around 1980). I went into an old stone out building to shelter when it started to rain and heard some squeaking behind a load of fencing posts stacked on end so decided to investigate. I found some old blue fertiliser bags torn to shreds and 6 lovely fat collie pups around 3 weeks old with a half eaten dead rabbit next to them. I called the farmer over who told me he hadn't known the pups were there but said his old collie bitch had taken to sleeping behind the posts. He was more surprised that the bitch had caught a rabbit as she had never even looked at one before in her life.
The mother of the pups had been worked every day and he had not noticed any difference in her before or after she gave birth to them. The farmer had bought the bitch at 2 years old very cheaply because she couldn't be handled. She would jump in the back of a car boot but would go berserk if anyone tried to touch her. I can remember the first day he brought her to the farm. He reversed his car up to a shed door and we held tin sheets either side. we managed to prod her out of the car boot with sticks, the poor creature was terrified and so were we, she was attacking the sticks like a wildcat. We kept her locked up for 2 weeks and just put food in then one day just left the door open. She never left the farm from that day and if ever we had to take her to work on a different part of the farm he would just open his car boot and shout of her she would jump right in. She was a wild shaggy thing as rough as the roads and a real ankle biter, even after she knew you she would just make a run at you out of the blue. By the time you had turned around to take a swipe at her she was ten yards away crouched and staring wild eyes at you.
The bitch must have been 8-10 years old when she had the pups. She had never been to the vets, or had any kind of other care. I doubt she had ever been wormed. No one had ever touched her all of those years since the day she first came. All of the farm dogs were fed the same diet once each day: Uveca (flaked maize) soaked in beast milk (the first few milkings of bloody milk after a cow has given birth) or normal milk. They would also eat any after birth from the cows or sheep. Nothing more.
When we had finished ferreting I asked what he was going to do with the pups and the old farmer (himself in his late 70s) said you can take them all home with you now if you want because they won't be there in the morning (I didn't take them). I am afraid there wasn't much room for sentiment on the hill farms of Cumbria.
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Sorry to hear that obi. At least the vet told you how it is and didn't try to string you along.
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I am afraid I will have to say it as it is. If it is a cruciate ligament gone then your dog will now need to be rehomed as a pet or PTS.
I have had two one whippet and another a greyhound both cost a fortune in vet bills neither worked out, don't let the robbing ba$tard vets try and tell you they may have a chance. Take it from me cut your losses.
Sorry to be so harsh but this is the truth.
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Pups pictured as adult dog and kids a little older. And kids all grown up (Yes I am just being a proud dad).
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Start farming sheep and you will soon forget about that by the time youve lambed them reared them and fattened them your usualy pretty glad to see the back of them.
This is just the begining.
Seem to recognise that land in the background blackdog is near Me**mer**
I Think The Vet Could Be Wrong .......
in Lurchers & Running Dogs
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Yes that is the idea Bob. It can be taken off after a week or so. If you can't be there during whelping it can be a life saver. Needs to be set around 4 - 5 inches high. Doesn't cost much just a bit of waste pipe and the brackets, if you can't get the fittings that are far enough away from the bed wall use a timber spacer. like the thicker slate lath.