Jump to content

3D printed self-contained in-line add-on.


Recommended Posts

As requested by a couple of members in my introduction post, here’s a few details of my DIY in-line add-on night vision project.

Over the last year, this has been a highly effective rig.

This is actually my second attempt at building an in-line add-on. The first was lashed together with bits of plastic pipe and silicone coolant hose, before I got the 3D printer; but it worked.

I’ve call it the QuickSite, as I needed NV within a few days and designed it around what I had in my parts box. The design brief was an in-line rear add-on with internal power and integral DSA.

The camera is mounted 2mm in front of the microdisplay. The display driver sits on pegs on top of the main chassis.

F62D9E55-CD2D-4EEF-87D9-2AA8F1F6F9C9.jpeg.ed5a1ff77e0a0e4ebefc98fccc863b07.jpeg
I used a 18650 battery holder and printed a sub-frame that gets sandwiched between the chassis and the front DSA (day scope adapter) when screwed together.
AF7DEB5A-90DC-4C2B-99D5-3A11358FD89F.jpeg.1a6758e9e15efbb3cba34b88df6253db.jpeg
E9B855DB-1690-4535-9569-23D850E40124.jpeg.4353c6d504131c114eb2550772ed5b6b.jpeg
AB883A3D-DB02-4D61-8D48-09761DF5F583.jpeg.7959a8feb39d2c1ead98ff159edc0f68.jpeg
This shows the internals assembled. I used a trick I saw used in F1 electromechanical assembly, to super glue the individual wires to the plastic housings and components. This means wires are as short as possible, and don't get in the way of the cover.

D7751471-67AC-4E57-81C2-8E380C0562AF.jpeg.b9cd9b00a0f10dd0fc4a57324482eb60.jpeg

I designed it on CAD so I knew everything would fit. Then 3D printed the chassis and cover to support the electronics I’m using.
A8F55CA0-E7F4-4EC7-BA94-A91F56F7D61E.jpeg.c39f5ea8057bdccece83a684df999fba.jpeg
The cover slides over the top and is secured using a single screw.

With a battery and cover fitted, 288g.

5EAEF31D-0B42-49D1-B491-283FD7C56236.jpeg.d1ab6e167f5ac1fd024ca390af07dc2c.jpeg

Fitted to the rifle.
7BF3DDA0-62B6-45F8-9A3D-7B0551175F4A.jpeg.e3961fd6fde61fdb0b64785c07faad3f.jpeg
Spec:

B&W Sony HAD II 1004X 1/3” CCD camera
12mm lens
Misumi MS-M311 432x240 near eye display
3-12V DCDC boost converter
3D printed chassis and cover in ABS. Printed in a Creality Ender3.
3 x M3 screws hold everything together.
3Ah Samsung NCR25 Li-Ion 18650 cell.
Built-in DSA for MTC Connect scope.
Run time 4 hours in warm weather, hoping for more than 2.5 when cold.

The camera is not the most sensitive, so it needs lots of IR light.

What's next? Not decided yet, but I've got a highly sensitive Foxeer Night Wolf V2 and a 800x600 OLED near eye in the parts box.
May be an other add-on, but probably a dedicated.
I'd like to integrate a LRF and link that to a range vs holder over table generated from Chairgun.
I'll keep you posted.

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Westy306 said:

As requested by a couple of members in my introduction post, here’s a few details of my DIY in-line add-on night vision project.

Over the last year, this has been a highly effective rig.

This is actually my second attempt at building an in-line add-on. The first was lashed together with bits of plastic pipe and silicone coolant hose, before I got the 3D printer; but it worked.

I’ve call it the QuickSite, as I needed NV within a few days and designed it around what I had in my parts box. The design brief was an in-line rear add-on with internal power and integral DSA.

The camera is mounted 2mm in front of the microdisplay. The display driver sits on pegs on top of the main chassis.

F62D9E55-CD2D-4EEF-87D9-2AA8F1F6F9C9.jpeg.ed5a1ff77e0a0e4ebefc98fccc863b07.jpeg
I used a 18650 battery holder and printed a sub-frame that gets sandwiched between the chassis and the front DSA (day scope adapter) when screwed together.
AF7DEB5A-90DC-4C2B-99D5-3A11358FD89F.jpeg.1a6758e9e15efbb3cba34b88df6253db.jpeg
E9B855DB-1690-4535-9569-23D850E40124.jpeg.4353c6d504131c114eb2550772ed5b6b.jpeg
AB883A3D-DB02-4D61-8D48-09761DF5F583.jpeg.7959a8feb39d2c1ead98ff159edc0f68.jpeg
This shows the internals assembled. I used a trick I saw used in F1 electromechanical assembly, to super glue the individual wires to the plastic housings and components. This means wires are as short as possible, and don't get in the way of the cover.

D7751471-67AC-4E57-81C2-8E380C0562AF.jpeg.b9cd9b00a0f10dd0fc4a57324482eb60.jpeg

I designed it on CAD so I knew everything would fit. Then 3D printed the chassis and cover to support the electronics I’m using.
A8F55CA0-E7F4-4EC7-BA94-A91F56F7D61E.jpeg.c39f5ea8057bdccece83a684df999fba.jpeg
The cover slides over the top and is secured using a single screw.

With a battery and cover fitted, 288g.

5EAEF31D-0B42-49D1-B491-283FD7C56236.jpeg.d1ab6e167f5ac1fd024ca390af07dc2c.jpeg

Fitted to the rifle.
7BF3DDA0-62B6-45F8-9A3D-7B0551175F4A.jpeg.e3961fd6fde61fdb0b64785c07faad3f.jpeg
Spec:

B&W Sony HAD II 1004X 1/3” CCD camera
12mm lens
Misumi MS-M311 432x240 near eye display
3-12V DCDC boost converter
3D printed chassis and cover in ABS. Printed in a Creality Ender3.
3 x M3 screws hold everything together.
3Ah Samsung NCR25 Li-Ion 18650 cell.
Built-in DSA for MTC Connect scope.
Run time 4 hours in warm weather, hoping for more than 2.5 when cold.

The camera is not the most sensitive, so it needs lots of IR light.

What's next? Not decided yet, but I've got a highly sensitive Foxeer Night Wolf V2 and a 800x600 OLED near eye in the parts box.
May be an other add-on, but probably a dedicated.
I'd like to integrate a LRF and link that to a range vs holder over table generated from Chairgun.
I'll keep you posted.

What CAD program did you use mate? Did you need to convert the doc through a CAD/CAM software etc?

Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, mushroom said:

What CAD program did you use mate? Did you need to convert the doc through a CAD/CAM software etc?

I use FreeCAD (free) or Fusion360 (costs £54/month) to do the 3D modelling, then Ultimaker CURA (free) to do the slicing and produce the gcode the 3D printer needs.

It’s simple when you know how, but not that difficult to learn.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Westy306 said:

I use FreeCAD (free) or Fusion360 (costs £54/month) to do the 3D modelling, then Ultimaker CURA (free) to do the slicing and produce the gcode the 3D printer needs.

It’s simple when you know how, but not that difficult to learn.

You should put up a couple of step guides for the ones that don’t know CAD etc mate ;)

Any idea a rough final cost for the build? These 3D printers are bloody brilliant these days. I remember when I was studying and a 3D printer was the size of a CNC machine ?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

For guides on using FreeCAD, CURA and 3D printers have a look on YouTube. Tons of tutorials on there. The best part, it the software is free, so try before you buy.

Cost wise, to repeat this build it would probably be £70-80 plus the cost of the 3D filament (under £20 per reel). CURA tells you how much filament each part uses.

If I did it again, this be the camera I use:Foxeer Cat3

The 3D printer has been good purchase.

I’ve printed all sorts of things for shooting and my other hobbies; things like back to back Piccatiny rails to make a torch mount out of two scope rings, a torch shroud to stop light spilling on to the gun and reloading trays.

Your only limited by the size of the printer and your imagination.

My next project is an induction annealer for my brass. I’m sure the 3D printer will be heavily used for that. Sometimes I also get to shoot!

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

×
×
  • Create New...