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pure greyhound as a steady worker??


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5 hours ago, bird said:

 well i do know a bit about them, as i worked at racing kennels for nearly 6 months . i used help feed them, clean there kennels , and walk them, the bloke had at one time  52 greyhounds . like been said on here, if from a 9 week old pup  - 12 months old , you can steady them down a bit  true. but they deff got a switch in there head , and it will go off , once there in full flight running quarry down. they wont hold back when behind live game , ok if you took them coursing on hares regular, they could learn  maybe hold back a bit, but in my mind if lamping they could get killed easy , hitting feckin b/ fences,  gates, etc . people think there only built for speed, but alot greyhounds are full on type dogs when there roused , they can be  twats for fighting as well . when 1st  started at the kennels , the owner said to me , even though all these dogs/ bitches  know each other , as they can see and smell each other in the kennels , alot of them would kill each other , if they were not kept apart , they only had 2 dogs to a kennel (dog/ bitch ). we used to walk 4 dogs at one time , i not small , and iam   quite fit/strong  , well we never got to close to the person walking there 4 dogs , well one day  a woman was walking her 4, when fecking  tree rat   ran across the field . Christ  all hell broke loose , they dragged the woman 20 yds across field , she did really well still holding them, then they started to scrap each other, mine stated to get wound up, i give a wack with the leads to calm them dowm , it took  good 10 mins till they calmed  , blood made things lol. i like greyhounds think they make good pets, but never never understated  a greyhound  you can see why the pit x grey popular as both breeds are full on type dogs, if that what youa fter , you can try to work them if from a pup, but remember what you got on the lead   . deff

Did  u end up slipping her 1 like ?

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gibbo  I just put down two months ago  my 14 year old Greyhound bitch who was still catching bunnies and squirrels a year ago. Me and most of my extended family have always had Lurchers and

well i do know a bit about them, as i worked at racing kennels for nearly 6 months . i used help feed them, clean there kennels , and walk them, the bloke had at one time  52 greyhounds . like been sa

Just rear it like any other lurcher and get it out over the fields from a young age so it grows into its speed. 

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1 hour ago, Casso said:

Bred a couple of first crosses years ago, no problem getting full hounds bitches then and worked them to see what they were made of , kept an odd one around 

put them on anything worth running but found them lacking in most departments, f***ing air heads , if the action was 100 yards in front they’d have spotted a leaf blowing 50 yards behind and be hot on its ass ?, you don’t need a working grey to breed pups that work if the dog is a right one , I only ever saw them as vessel for breeding, cost nothing and had the basic frame for running 

put it this way I always associate pure bred dogs greys in particular with black type horses (thoroughbreds), their intelligence is in their speed , their not bred to catch, anything , so supple is not a strong point with them, and as with the difference between gypsy horses and thoroughbreds, I always found them a little more distant, a little lacking , run first/think  later , don’t get hung up on the speed thing Bud , turning ability , heart, social engagement go a long way , 

if catching was about speed we’d all have greys , we don’t and it’s for a reason , even a pup out of two half assed lurchers will give you something  decent with more stamina and more social engagement , speed kills,  only when  driving,

bottom line , there’s not a single grey,  bred to catch anything for the last two hundred years , unlike the desert dog bred solely to catch 

best of luck with it anyway, I’ve been as honest as I can bud ,take it or leave it 

If you’re only experience is ex track dogs it’s no wonder you have the view you have, it’s best you leave lads to answer the mans question that have actual experience of rearing one from a pup. 

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29 minutes ago, dogmandont said:

If you’re only experience is ex track dogs it’s no wonder you have the view you have, it’s best you leave lads to answer the mans question that have actual experience of rearing one from a pup. 

X track / coursing , was given a slippy pup by Mallon in Monaghan for getting a hound going for him to make the time , 

reared it till I found it was no better than a half bred beddy thing I had but with less bottle 

lads tried dogs same dogs between track and field , 

if ya know dogs ya know dogs and it wasn’t going to make the grade for anything heavy 

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14 minutes ago, Casso said:

X track / coursing , was given a slippy pup by Mallon in Monaghan for getting a hound going for him to make the time , 

reared it till I found it was no better than a half bred beddy thing I had but with less bottle 

lads tried dogs same dogs between track and field , 

if ya know dogs ya know dogs 

And maybe you don’t know as much about dogs as you’d have people believe. 

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Get your greyhound mate we’re ever you ask questions there will be nay sayers your  odds are the same as any with running dogs fella it either will be what you want or it won’t if you look to much in to any running dog or running dog cross there’s negatives with all it’s about what you fancy as it’s you that will be feeding it an caring for it. Here’s a question for you how much intelligence/obedience does a lamp dog need?.....in my eyes not a lot recall and a extension of recall that’s retrieve if your a rabbit man the rests all ready in the dog by genetic make up so get your greyhound mate give it a try if it works out happy days  if not close the chapter an don’t visit it again 

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My dad used to have cast greyhounds for racing at the flapping track and also Sunday ( ! ) morning coursing and i don't really remember many foot injuries, but it was a while ago. The more recent greyhound i knew of had been retired through injury at a young age and was a very useful ferreting dog, excellent at marking and good at retrieving liked water and jumped well. It put up a good show on the very few foxes we came across and pulled down roe. On the down side she was a b*****d with sheep and got the owner in a bit of trouble with that and when lamping she tired fairly easily. My brother took her on when she got past it and she spent her last years happy on a sofa. It's a pity she was never bred from.

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1 hour ago, poxon said:

Get your greyhound mate we’re ever you ask questions there will be nay sayers your  odds are the same as any with running dogs fella it either will be what you want or it won’t if you look to much in to any running dog or running dog cross there’s negatives with all it’s about what you fancy as it’s you that will be feeding it an caring for it. Here’s a question for you how much intelligence/obedience does a lamp dog need?.....in my eyes not a lot recall and a extension of recall that’s retrieve if your a rabbit man the rests all ready in the dog by genetic make up so get your greyhound mate give it a try if it works out happy days  if not close the chapter an don’t visit it again 

This mans right , 

get your pup, invest time and effort in it , what I wouldn’t do is introduce too young

, use the first year to engage it totally in you, what your looking for is social engagement with you as a starting point, 

dogs bred to kill on their own,  generally are more aloof and inclined to act on instinct,  full hounds and terriers ,as opposed to collies , gun dogs and the like who work specifically through and with their owner , tend to be more biddable,  social more inclined to want to please 

go out and play/ interact with it in the same fields/ areas your going to work in, no point training in the garden and expect the training just to transfer into any environment it doesn't work like that with dogs , every environment is a different mindset , 

what I would focus on is introducing a state of calm out , where you can just sit down beside a ditch Somewhere and the pup will gravitate to you to the exclusion of everything else ,  and just sit there and feed it bits  and let it chill , ferreting is a great way of starting a pup 

A pup is forever trying to figure out what to do with its body to make action happen so in ferreting it learns “ if I do f**k all I can make rabbits appear”  , bingo you've just introduced a state of calm , not by your physical training but the dog learning from the inside out , it’s not enforced through you so no confusion between you and it 

whereas some pups can run into trouble if stated on the lamp with other dogs , a frenzy of excitement which always means movement to a dog and if a dog feels that movement makes bunnies  appear That is exactly what it will do , it’ll keep running to the exclusion of you it doesn’t have the genetic make up to pander to any training , instinct will rule 

if you  often reference the fact that instincts prevail, but then engage that instinct into interaction with you, ball play tug play ,   you’ll go a long way in bonding before you introduce the real thing , if ya get me 

bonding is engaging drive / instinct with you through physical movement 

once again best of luck 

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4 minutes ago, Casso said:

This mans right , 

get your pup, invest time and effort in it , what I wouldn’t do is introduce too young

, use the first year to engage it totally in you, what your looking for is social engagement with you as a starting point, 

dogs bred to kill on their own,  generally are more aloof and inclined to act on instinct,  full hounds and terriers ,as opposed to collies , gun dogs and the like who work specifically through and with their owner , tend to be more biddable,  social more inclined to want to please 

go out and play/ interact with it in the same fields/ areas your going to work in, no point training in the garden and expect the training just to transfer into any environment it doesn't work like that with dogs , every environment is a different mindset , 

what I would focus on is introducing a state of calm out , where you can just sit down beside a ditch Somewhere and the pup will gravitate to you to the exclusion of everything else ,  and just sit there and feed it bits  and let it chill , ferreting is a great way of starting a pup 

A pup is forever trying to figure out what to do with its body to make action happen so in ferreting it learns “ if I do f**k all I can make rabbits appear”  , bingo you've just introduced a state of calm , not by your physical training but the dog learning from the inside out , it’s not enforced through you so no confusion between you and it 

whereas some pups can run into trouble if stated on the lamp with other dogs , a frenzy of excitement which always means movement to a dog and if a dog feels that movement makes bunnies  appear That is exactly what it will do , it’ll keep running to the exclusion of you it doesn’t have the genetic make up to pander to any training , instinct will rule 

if you  often reference the fact that instincts prevail, but then engage that instinct into interaction with you, ball play tug play ,   you’ll go a long way in bonding before you introduce the real thing , if ya get me 

bonding is engaging drive / instinct with you through physical movement 

once again best of luck 

so basically same as you do with a lurcher pup then no need to over complicate things 

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46 minutes ago, Blackmag said:

so basically same as you do with a lurcher pup then no need to over complicate things 

Id be more inclined to start  a lurcher sooner rather than later but less emphasis on breaking to stock , i ignore stock work with a lurcher they seem to gravitate to what they bred for quicker 

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5 minutes ago, Casso said:

Id be more inclined to start  a lurcher sooner rather than later but less emphasis on breaking to stock , i ignore stock work with a lurcher they seem to gravitate to what they bred for quicker 

Casso not of that makes sense to me you don't stock break a lurcher and how do they gravitate quicker for it I don't get it 

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I don’t as a rule stock break a lurcher , I introduce it to work,
say lamping ,I ingrained  that in for a few months so the dog understands the system , It gets the pattern of events that leads to work , boots on , battery ready , smells and sounds of work , all lead to catching rabbits or whatever your hunting , they get it quicker more socially aware , less inclined to deafness out , meeting stock after that isn’t an issue , 

full hounds are a lot more trigger happy, If it moves chase it , it’s what it’s bred for shape size colour matters f**k all , movement stimulates It  right down to toes , the genetics of social engagement listening to me is not there 

 

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Not trying to dig you out casso I'm interested in your view and I know your a intelligent lad that knows his stuff but I don't get why if your going to run  a grey  you would do it different from a lurcher who you expect to do the same job and saying a grey hasn't been bred to catch anything in 200 years there was coursing up until the ban running greyhounds for that very reason Waterloo cup being one none of the above I can see would make a difference and everyone has had lurcher pups who chase crisp packets leaves ect 

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On 26/03/2020 at 18:49, gibbo1973 said:

before I get slated and say why do it there a load a shit and always injured ,I am in the process of purchasing one for a few reasons , 1/ my parents and grandad had them when we were kids racing and coursing ,mostly racing so  ive always fancied one for light work as around here game is limited ,2/ ive had a first cross deerhound /grey and was hoping if I can get her to a reasonable standard and stay fit to breed my own knowing the pups will be from working stock , the pure greyhound will be brought up like I have done with all my dogs ie field craft common sense stuff ie age of training age for entering etc , Im not thick and will not abuse such pup n any way or form regarding working ability and discard if it fails

I would just like a few honest comments on facts when rearing such a dog ,,,, ie stock breaking , feet , injuries etc just so I can enjoy it ,

I wont be hammering her day and night prob once or twice a week if conditions let

cheers for your time ,,gibbo

ps dam 8 bend open winner sire well bred too

sensible comments please as they will be much appreciated ,possible of peeps who have trained and use them from pups ??   

Ive owned a couple of retired Greyhounds with the intention of entering them in the field and producing a litter of lurchers out of them,they were slow to learn yet eventually learnt not as much as i wanted,work them hard and they fall over as they lack wind.They are keen and eager,they just don,t have the grey matter.Work them lightly as you desire and they will be OK,breed from them,if they come in season?,then they will produce something far better,which to be honest is not hard to achieve.As a baseline for lurcher production can be useful,especially if you are patient enough to breed from 2nd generation stock.As its your time,energy and desire id give it a chance.

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