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Welding plates on cars is very  different to welding girders and angle iron. But practice is what's needed, even down to the position of your hand can vary from person to person. Best advise I can give you is buy some flappy sanding discs for an angle grinder ( grinding discs can be a bit to much at times) and if your going to be doing alot of welding get a plasma cutter. I've been welding cars for 25 years and only the last year got one, they are worth their weight in gold!!. Also don't get the thinnest sheet metal, yes it's easy to shape but your weld will look better and last longer with the thicker gear.

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I try to avoid buying 4x4s that need welding doing they have a habit of making you chase your tail ? Better off paying a little extra for something solid saves a lot of time and heartache. W

I’m no expert but just talking from personal experience use the mig for the cars then get a cheap arc for when your going to start on structural stuff with heavier gauge steel ?

Just get some bits of scrap and play around all sets have there own quirks and if using an extension lead make sure it’s fully unrolled or it will melt there you go your off oh and get a 4” grinder to

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1 hour ago, timmy k said:

Welding plates on cars is very  different to welding girders and angle iron. But practice is what's needed, even down to the position of your hand can vary from person to person. Best advise I can give you is buy some flappy sanding discs for an angle grinder ( grinding discs can be a bit to much at times) and if your going to be doing alot of welding get a plasma cutter. I've been welding cars for 25 years and only the last year got one, they are worth their weight in gold!!. Also don't get the thinnest sheet metal, yes it's easy to shape but your weld will look better and last longer with the thicker gear.

I asked for 2mm plate but he only had 1.5mm in stock mate.

It seems rigid enough though.

I picked up 3 flappy discs a week or 2 ago.and used 1 to take the bulk of rust off the tow bar bracket.before hammerite painting.

I've been looking at sand blasting cabinets.but a decent air compressor is needed to run 1 I think.

Maybe 1 day I will get 1.

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1.5 ml is way to thick. What are you building a tank!!! About 0.8 is what you want, don't forget the thickness of what your welding too, if ones way thicker than the other one will melt quicker if you get me. You will need a compressor for a plasma cutter too so if you haven't got one your f****d. Out of interest how are you planning to cut the 1.5ml plate, coz if your doing it with tin snips you'll need hands like the hulk.

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4 minutes ago, timmy k said:

1.5 ml is way to thick. What are you building a tank!!! About 0.8 is what you want, don't forget the thickness of what your welding too, if ones way thicker than the other one will melt quicker if you get me. You will need a compressor for a plasma cutter too so if you haven't got one your f****d. Out of interest how are you planning to cut the 1.5ml plate, coz if your doing it with tin snips you'll need hands like the hulk.

Welding the boot floor and under the rear arches.

Using a cutting disc on an angle grinder.and shaping the rear arch pieces by bending in the vice only 1 bend per piece.

I'm new to welding so thought a bit thicker steel than a body panel would be the way to go.

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12 minutes ago, timmy k said:

Try it and see how you get on but I personally wouldn't go that thick. Good luck. Where abouts are you, if your close enough I'd give you a bit of a display and some off cuts.

Shropshire mate.

I bought 2x 1x1ft squares and a 2x1ft piece for £10.happy with that price.

 

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I've welded 3mm steel to the back end of a Terracan for the top end of the suspension strut.  Put the heat into the thick steel and then join it to the original steel.  Might not look pretty, but it passed the MOT.  1.5mm will be fine as long as you put the heat into it first.  If you don't you will end up blowing holes everywhere.

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