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work in progress kitchen knives  , a real pain in the boll...blending the grinds so there is no grind line ,lot of work yet  before heat  treatement                        ,then a fkn lot more after 

,,,,,,,,,,,,kitchen knives  ready for heat treatement ,plungeless grinds , cut from 2.5mm n690  austrian stainless  

you just got to love high quality steel !!

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couple ready to go up to argyle and bute , 4.5" petty  knife and chefs knife  ended up 2mm blades  after grinding  , bohler n690  austrian premium stainless  ,g10 handles  416  stainless fittings  chefs knife is 7 1/4  "   blade hand rubbed finish  

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1 hour ago, riohog said:

couple ready to go up to argyle and bute , 4.5" petty  knife and chefs knife  ended up 2mm blades  after grinding  , bohler n690  austrian premium stainless  ,g10 handles  416  stainless fittings  chefs knife is 7 1/4  "   blade hand rubbed finish  

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Very nice ???

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  • 3 weeks later...
2 minutes ago, Balaur said:

Very nice , like that wood handle, do you do carbon blades? Always fancied a green River style knife made, with a sheath.

https://images.app.goo.gl/MPsr7N79CWVdrkzB6

Something similar to that...

ihavnt made carbon steel blades in a couple of years now  .,allstainless ,problem is with carbon steel it   will rust and not everone looks after them 

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8 minutes ago, Balaur said:

Yep I get that, I've always found it easier to get an edge and carbon blades I've had don't seem to have a steep bevel, more like a razor and generally thinner than stainless. 

what do you meen thinner than stainless  ? that skinner is 2.5mm at the spine with a 3.5deg grind  

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1 minute ago, Balaur said:

I was generalising, but the two green River type knives and opinels I've had just don't seem as thick as a lot of stainless blades on the market. I wasn't refering to yours specifically and yep you'd want a thin blade for skinning. I'm not really familiar with bevel degrees , anyways nice knife. 

you would choose the steel thickness,type of steel  and the type of grind to suit the purpose  ;)

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Steels... we could talk hours about steels and their advantages..

Generally you can say that stainless has one advantage, well, it's less prone to rust :D

Pure carbon steels like C75, C80, C100 etc don't have any alloys added, take a very fine edge, are very flexible, but won't hold an edge very long and they can rust.

Now for the tool steels, you can add alloys that will form carbides, these will make the edge last longer (as long as they are very small).

And you can add chromium to make it resistant agains rust (no steel is 100% stainless) but the chrome will not allow an edge as keen as on carbon or tool steels and they are not as flexible as carbon or tool steels. Obviously a thin stainless blade will be more flexible than a thick tool steel blade.

Now combine this with blade stocks (thin cuts better but is less resistant) and different kind of grinds and different kind of bevels...... you can spend years of testing what is best for you :D

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Do you guys buy In blanks or flat steel and cut in the shape of the knife and grind ??? As all my knives start as a lump of spring steel or digger blades and I forge them into the shape I want. A longer process I know but I get a great satisfaction from making from scratch. 

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i use flatstock ,from sandvick,bohler , becut ,rwl34,i do have 1/4,sheet of 80crv2 but as i said dont bother with the carbon steels much as most of my knives go to hunters ,/deerstalkers , and blood is a enemy for carbon steels. proven steels will give predictable results  with correct h/t  .

 

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