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12 hours ago, terryd said:

Mine  never showed no aggression and would run up and piss about. Then one day a bulldog snuck out from behind hind us and grabbed him by the chops while he was on a lead. 
The old terrier mentality switch flipped unfortunately. You don't want your dog having bad experiences because once they get into a habit your fooked lol.

 

 

Yep my dog ran over 2 fields and grabbed a neighbors dog all because it was the same colour as a dog that constantly used to run at him and try biting him .. fine with any other colour dog apart from golden coloured ones 

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To think that he'll grow out of it is very wishful thinking and doesn't take into account why the dog is behaving like this. Yes, he's feeling his feet, his male strength, and the buzz he gets from ch

As a training aid, yeah brilliant. But in this situation just need to be careful the dog doesn't associate the punishing stimulus with other dogs. Could make things a whole lot worse. Just needs to be

Completely agree with Skycat's comments above. As an example, my current pup is ten months old and is extremely "happy" he'd readily go up to every human or dog at full speed to bounce all over them a

To think that he'll grow out of it is very wishful thinking and doesn't take into account why the dog is behaving like this. Yes, he's feeling his feet, his male strength, and the buzz he gets from challenging other dogs is self-fulfilling, but it's up to you to show him the rules, which mean that you are in charge. Every time the dog runs off to 'play', threaten, dominate another dog you are allowing him to be in charge, to be in control. Whilst many people these days feel bad about disciplining their dogs, it is absolutely necessary that you take control of him, in every situation. 

I've had challenges with my latest pup, not that she's aggressive in the slightest, but her daft bouncing, charging at other dogs is not well received by other dogs or their owners. She is now a year old and I have put in months of training to get her to where we are now, which means that the moment she sees another dog she stands still, expecting me to call her back to go on the lead. Believe me this has taken all of her first year, and I've not had to beat, punish or threaten her. It's all been done by slow, patient conditioning.  But if I'd let her get on with it to 'grow out of it' she'd still be behaving as her instincts tell her to behave, which is not acceptable. If we allow, for one moment, such dogs to choose how to behave, we are in trouble.

You can, with a dog of 2 years old, change his behaviour without beating him up, but it will take time, and involves keeping the dog on a long lead for a while, so that each time he goes to lunge forwards/run towards another dog, he'll be firmly checked by you. You then call him to you, and reward him for doing so, even though he hasn't had an option. If he is food orientated give me a tasty treat. If he's not food orientated then use a bit of rabbit skin on a string as a lure, and throw it a few feet from you as he comes to you so he can grab it as his reward. 

Altering an established behaviour will take much longer than if you were simply training him not to charge at other dogs from when he was a little pup, and you'll never be able to relax, be off guard. As for allowing him to run free, you can only do that in a safe enclosed area where there are no other dogs, because if even one recurrence of his instinctive behaviour is allowed to happen, you are back at square one. Don't be afraid to check him firmly as you walk past other dogs and he starts poncing about acting the big man. Keep walking, short lead, firm commands to heel etc. Behave like a drill sergeant. Dogs understand leadership, and appreciate and accept it far better than many humans, and he'll respect you the more for showing him that you are the leader. 

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Has he seen much work , 

Your relationship with the dog can solve issues , any issue 

people take dogs out and show them other dogs for some reason, which triggers instincts, a dog can only see the world through a predator/prey mindset it’s not a human, socialisation is a pet dog concept , if a dog has any balls, he needs to be running them off him not stuck confined on a lead  

hand feed only on walks, don’t worry about been the Alpha it’s a load of bollox , you want to be an instrument that channels his energy, 

his temperament is coming on board and it’s not rounded, forget walking him around other dogs for the moment, that stimulation caused,  has zero outlet on the lead , it’s stored for the next mutt that comes along even if you confront it 

plenty of walks  on a long line , get barking for food , pushing for food Plenty if physically contact   Mouthing your hands , acting the maggot with him , engage him , all in quiet out of he way places and plenty of work if ya can get it should round up his temperament a bit, 

don’t  be the sergeant major  it’s not a f***ing war it’s a relationship based on trust 

 

Edited by Casso
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"Has he seen much work?"

 

Had one of my pups back to look after at 3 years old 28" and 90lb. He would see a dog run at it to scare it, then chase run it down and pin it to the floor. Or if the dog stood its ground, there would be a fight. The dog couldn't be trusted around stock and it was stock broken when it left here at 7 months old. His favourite trick was retrieving Swans! Totally unacceptable.

I had the dog for 4 weeks, out most days hunting, caught a few bits and the dog was changed. He realised dogs is not the game and I had removed his pent up energy.

This dog had been kept on the lead because of his behaviour and the problem had got worse and worse. Obviously I had to be firm, use commands and address his behaviour. But the most important thing was chucking work at him, exercise and mental stimulation and lots of it. He left here a calm well mannered 90lb well ripped monster, ready to kick off when he got back with his owner  ? ??

As with any training, timing is critical. If you miss the moment, you may as well do nothing and I think this is where my friend fails. That and the lack of work it see's.

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4 hours ago, Casso said:

Has he seen much work , 

Your relationship with the dog can solve issues , any issue 

people take dogs out and show them other dogs for some reason, which triggers instincts, a dog can only see the world through a predator/prey mindset it’s not a human, socialisation is a pet dog concept , if a dog has any balls, he needs to be running them off him not stuck confined on a lead  

hand feed only on walks, don’t worry about been the Alpha it’s a load of bollox , you want to be an instrument that channels his energy, 

his temperament is coming on board and it’s not rounded, forget walking him around other dogs for the moment, that stimulation caused,  has zero outlet on the lead , it’s stored for the next mutt that comes along even if you confront it 

plenty of walks  on a long line , get barking for food , pushing for food Plenty if physically contact   Mouthing your hands , acting the maggot with him , engage him , all in quiet out of he way places and plenty of work if ya can get it should round up his temperament a bit, 

don’t  be the sergeant major  it’s not a f***ing war it’s a relationship based on trust 

 

Introducing a dog to another dog while out is socialisation, it's hopefully used to teach your mutt to not be dog and human aggressive, it's definitely not a pet concept, how do you think packs of hounds would behave if not properly socialised.

why would you hand feed your dog while out on a walk?, it's better to reward them with a dummy or ball, leave feeding till the dogs day is over and it can lay down, stretch out and relax after it's meal knowing it's had its exercise for the day. 

The dog needs to be constantly walked near other dogs on a short lead so you can correct him anytime he does whatever you don't agree with, forget that shit about walking him on a long lead, you've got no control when the dogs 30 feet in front of you or should I say you have less control?, as for getting your dog to bark for food, maybe ok for you casso, but I've got a lurcher not a circus dog, she's expected to be silent at all times, after all her owner is a poacher, not a clown.

atb

 

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1 hour ago, Countryman62 said:

Introducing a dog to another dog while out is socialisation, it's hopefully used to teach your mutt to not be dog and human aggressive, it's definitely not a pet concept, how do you think packs of hounds would behave if not properly socialised.

why would you hand feed your dog while out on a walk?, it's better to reward them with a dummy or ball, leave feeding till the dogs day is over and it can lay down, stretch out and relax after it's meal knowing it's had its exercise for the day. 

The dog needs to be constantly walked near other dogs on a short lead so you can correct him anytime he does whatever you don't agree with, forget that shit about walking him on a long lead, you've got no control when the dogs 30 feet in front of you or should I say you have less control?, as for getting your dog to bark for food, maybe ok for you casso, but I've got a lurcher not a circus dog, she's expected to be silent at all times, after all her owner is a poacher.

atb

 

You suit yourself countryman,

if ya want to debate any of it , I will gladly do so but the barking comment shows complete misunderstand of the canine mind , 

its about getting full expression in your space and by doing so giving it a context and contrast 

contrast is huge for dogs , the when and where for expression 

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1 minute ago, Casso said:

You suit yourself countryman,

if ya want to debate any of it , I will gladly do so but the barking comment shows complete misunderstand of the canine mind , 

its about getting full expression in your space and by doing so giving it a context and contrast 

contrast is huge for dogs , the when and where for expression 

My canines are well balanced animals, they wouldn't be like that if I didn't know what I was doing, atb

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Completely agree with Skycat's comments above. As an example, my current pup is ten months old and is extremely "happy" he'd readily go up to every human or dog at full speed to bounce all over them and invite them to play. Unfortunately, because he's black and tan with pricked ears, many owners fear the worst and assume he's going to rip their poor little darling apart. While it's tempting for me to think that's their fault, my dog's fine, they'll have to put up with it etc I don't want to be that kind of owner. I simply lay him down if he looks like he's going to get overly excited and gauge what kind of dog owner they are and then act accordingly e.g. let him up to play or keep him at down. 

I know some people are "dog lovers" who'd like my dog to jump all over them but most people don't. Yesterday somebody asked if they could say hello to him and when he approached them a little too excitedly I told him to "down" and she said, "that's ok, he can jump up," to which I added, "no he can't!" Fortunately, she realized what I meant and greeted him calmly and at his level.

While my current problem may seem like the opposite, in that he wants to excitedly greet every dog rather than attack them, I think the same approach would probably work in your case.

Incidentally, I also know the flip side of the coin as my older male was equally friendly as a pup but after being repeatedly attacked by dogs which had been encouraged to defend their owners, one such attack resulted in him running off and being knocked over by a car. He's since become aggressive towards the majority of dark coloured males which are acting either aggressively or defensively. Sometimes he does but sometimes he doesn't, so I simply always call him over and put him on the lead if I'm in any doubt. You could say it's not his fault or mine that he's aggressive but I'm not prepared to accept it whoever started it.

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11 minutes ago, Countryman62 said:

My canines are well balanced animals, they wouldn't be like that if I didn't know what I was doing, atb

Sure  

When your using the word “hopefully” your clutching at straws 

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46 minutes ago, Casso said:

Sure  

When your using the word “hopefully” your clutching at straws 

You've took the word out of context coco, by hopefully I meant social or acceptable as opposed to anti social or unacceptable, hope this helps, atb

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Thanks for all the replies, I really appreciate everyone taking time out to give your opinion. I think I have created the problem to an extent as he was such a friendly puppy I was to slack with allowing him to run over to other dogs and people rather than stopping it as it is still not good behaviour. I am in the process of trying to train him that he doesn’t go over to any other dogs or people but I fear it may take a while, he is food oriented though and today as soon as he realised some bacon scraps where on offer he was back as soon as called sitting waiting for his treat! He is a long way from a real problem dog I just want to nip this in the bud before it becomes a real problem. To those that asked if he has seen much work he has had a very good winter and gets worked pretty hard week in week out but I do work full time and he is a 2 year old dog with bags of energy. He gets at least one long walk a day though and has two other dogs at home to play with so it’s not like he is locked up all week then let out for 10 minutes once a week. 

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21 hours ago, terryd said:

Stop him running up. Lots of room for a bit of  disaster  there. My dog would latch on to him because mine is an arse and you wouldn't want that

These days people are so mental, uptight and ready to kick off at the slightest thing it's better to put the dog on the lead until the other people and their dogs are gone. Calling the dog back when it wants to run over to greet other dogs is just reinforcing the recall, should come with some patience and time.

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19 minutes ago, Caravan Monster said:

These days people are so mental, uptight and ready to kick off at the slightest thing it's better to put the dog on the lead until the other people and their dogs are gone. Calling the dog back when it wants to run over to greet other dogs is just reinforcing the recall, should come with some patience and time.

That has been a lot of the issue! Some real neurotic people making the situation worse with how they react, however if he didn’t run over in the first place....going to work hard strengthening the recall and stopping him even going near other dogs in the first place. 

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My dog I got now not aggro at all but got beat up a few times by dogs when a pup and luckily didn't turn him into an asshole he used to run up to other dogs but I started shouting loud and short oi at him which switched his mind back to me. Now if it's just a walk I take a tennis ball with me he loves to run and chase so he gets the ball pays zero interest in other dogs and animals all attention is on me and the ball maybe finding something like that could help out. My last dog hated husky types and black labs I had to double foot drop kick him off a husky once he had it pinned down ragging it I ended up walking him at the weirdest hours so I didn't see anyone you don't want that headache. Best of luck with it 

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