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weirhauch hw 99 home tune


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Just enjoy it mate and be a stickler for the detail. Piece of piss job really. 

The others will go into detail for sure. I was gonna say watch the spring preload, but its a 99, ya could compress the spring by blowing on it.

Keep us updated how you get on.

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17 minutes ago, maxwell said:

Thanks lads just got to get some tools and materials sorted then its full steam ahead, any advice would be very much appreciated

Sin will be along shortly Les

he will sort you out

atvbjimmy:thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

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His maxwell here is my opinion on the 99. Iv had 2 and loved them both. It' one of the easiest guns to work on ever, a pleasure to work on infact. Here' a guide on stripping them

My preferrd set up after much playing about i' as follows...

Tbt drop in kit with guides sized to the supplied spring.

It will need cutting and the spring end finishing like this.....

Strip your gun and Polish everything including the cyl and spring ends to a mirror with wet and dry to 1500 grit. Put the latch of your piston into a drill and spin it at his speed to Polish it as said earlier to a mirror Finnish. 

Buy a vorteck piston seal and fit it to the piston and carefully a tiny bit at a time size it again in the drill chuck with fine wet and dry while testing it on your cyl for a perfect smooth fit and air tight seal py pushing it down the cyl with your finger covering the transfer port.

Search online for one of these seals iv lost the number for vorteck seals now but I'll try find it if I can if you get stuck.

Then use bumslide lube supplied with the kit (it is superb and gets better/smoother the more you shoot your gun) put this sparingly on the piston and reassemble. 

During the polishing make sure the cut out edges on the way in are polished.

I like to avoid using power washers but found they don' do much in a 99 anyway!

The above makes the 99 perfect! It' a great gun. Also look an dave prices wonky donky kit if you want a spring and guide kit cut and ready to drop in. 

I also fitted quick release pivot pin so the barrel doesn't need removing next time you take it apart.

This is just my personal experience with 99 service and fettle others may have their own preferable so looks forwards to others opinion'. 

Take your time and make sure the polishing is like a mirror then wipe out you cyl and parts with ipa to remove any dirt or swafre before applying the bumslide.

All the best and hope you enjoy your 99 they are a great gun.

 

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I agree with everything Tom said there, especially the Vortek piston seal, it transforms them, the only difference in my method, is not to use any grease on the piston, unless you want to shell out for some Ulitimox 226 go faster grease (from the states on Ebay) I use dri slide spray on the piston and all the 99s I have done have turned out brilliant, use bum slide (moly paste) sparingly on the spring and a dab of pure silicon oil on the piston seal, and whatever you do DONT use a tin can inside the piston:bad: it messes terribly with consistency, even more so on a 99, oh one last thing, before you fit the piston back in, make sure you have de burred the little squares in the end of the cylinder, they have sharp edges and can shred a piston seal, is yours a .177 or .22 mate?  Good luck, if you need any help, just ask, cheers.

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got to agree with what tom and Charlie have said.. tom did a mint walkthrough on what he did to his:thumbs: and for the money they make a great riffle.

one thing thats not been mentioned and from what I can gather it not an issue on all of them but it was on mine... is the 

galling issue, mine was fine for maybe 50 shots then when the grease on the cocking shoe is displaced it starts!

villaman on here mentioned it to me cos he's known of a few doing it... its an easy fix but if you don't address it will damage the piston and comp tube!

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I just found you the phone no. You need for the vorteck piston seal it is....

07912 466 917 

he posts very fast and accepts paypal and the seal is same cost as a standard HW one.

Make sure you Polish the end of the cocking link too so it slides smoothly up and down the cyl cut out and lightly grease it and a bit the delrin insert that slides up and down the outside of the cyl too. Also make sure it is spotless and no metal swarf (iv had one start to score inside and need to strip and re-polish it all again from the tinyest bit of swarfe somehow found its way back in there and then it needed stripping and repolishing again) so degrease inside and make sure it is completely spotless, and that also goes for all parts with IPA (including inside the piston and around the latch rod) before re lubing and make sure no lube gets in front of the piston seal when  re-assembling.

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