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Re-Call Help To Saluki Owners


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ive got to admit the advice skycat gave makes sence ive had a good few and they are the most single minded head strong animals i had most from pups but they all get to an age and forget every thing you learnt them but you gota luv em

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I have used a lure with these types with great results. Saluki types are very chase focused. Use a lure in the same way a falconer calls in his bird, but pull a bit of rabbit skin along the ground ins

lol its a saluki they have a built in geene it is " selective hearing"

Forget titbits bud , all food by hand ,   Pups that's age are still establishing their own world which depends on how she feels about things in her environment, including you   Dogs are readil

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Hi chaps and chappettes!

 

Iv got a new bitch, got her at 9 months (a difficult age I know)

Beautiful bitch she is, smart as a button and just in general nice to hang out with you know.

Anyway, Iv got her to 'wait'! And down with hand signals. She sits on her own but won't be trained to, Iv tried everything, also she won't come if off the lead.

 

So my question is, any pointers on re-call?

Iv tried,

1) using a long lead and tit bits- not food interested so never worked.

2) hiding (bit odd I know, but I tried once with a saluki who wouldn't come back) really worked- not with her though.

3) tried rewarding with praise ( worked with my last saluki)-nothing

Any other ideas?

It's weird because I can get her to stay and lay down on a walk (off the lead) with commands and hand signals but not fr decent re-call.

I always have to give the command to 'wait' then go and put her on a lead.

I'm not in-experienced with saluki saturated dogs at all, she just drives me round the end with it.

 

 

Hi chaps and chappettes!

 

Iv got a new bitch, got her at 9 months (a difficult age I know)

Beautiful bitch she is, smart as a button and just in general nice to hang out with you know.

Anyway, Iv got her to 'wait'! And down with hand signals. She sits on her own but won't be trained to, Iv tried everything, also she won't come if off the lead.

 

So my question is, any pointers on re-call?

Iv tried,

1) using a long lead and tit bits- not food interested so never worked.

2) hiding (bit odd I know, but I tried once with a saluki who wouldn't come back) really worked- not with her though.

3) tried rewarding with praise ( worked with my last saluki)-nothing

Any other ideas?

It's weird because I can get her to stay and lay down on a walk (off the lead) with commands and hand signals but not fr decent re-call.

I always have to give the command to 'wait' then go and put her on a lead.

I'm not in-experienced with saluki saturated dogs at all, she just drives me round the end with it.

 

There are two kinds of recall. The first is simply getting a dog to come to you – this is easish. The second is getting a dog to come to you when it is in full hunt mode – this is hard and takes work but a lot of lurcher owners are really good at it, so everyone who gets a dog with great recall is easy.

You have to start with the first type of recall, but the second type is just about building on the first type in different situations.

Starting at 9 months is harder than 4 months, but is doable.

Its easier for a dog to come to you if it thinks you are great. So try to have fun with it. If you hit it, or shout at it and it is a sensitive dog it will be nervous of you and it will always think errrr…

Get a whistle and an amazing treat – it’s got to be good – sardines, warmed pork fat, chicken skin. Kibble isn’t going to work, cold chicken is not going to work. I am always amazed at what lurcher owners think is a ‘treat’. Its got to trigger a bingo moment in the dogs head. every dog has a bingo food treat even salukis. And all dogs prefer warm dripping fatty morsels

Then blow the whistle (gently) when you give it the treat. Do this at home and do it when the dog is naturally hungry. Crouch down and be excited as if both of you have won the lottery. All dogs love food if they are hungry . Repeat this for a week, once a day. No more. Don’t use the whistle for anything else…. and don’t get the dog to sit. You just want treat = whistle, treat = whistle, treat = whistle and NOT treat = whistle = sit.

Then blow the whistle when the dog can see you but not the treat. And the dog will begin to think whistle = treat, whistle = treat. Again do this for a week, once a day. You can slightly downgrade the treat towards the end of the week.

Then do a cycle where you blow the whistle when the dog cannot see you or the treat.

Next take the dog outside for a walk somewhere open. Make sure the dog is hungry. Upgrade the treat to something warm and fatty, and blow the whistle when it is near you. Do it once or twice over a day or two. There is no harm in the dog knowing you have the treat before you leave home.

Then take the dog out and leave it wander off a big field. Turn your back so the dog can’t see your face crouch down and blow the whistle. Then repeat and repeat.

And then only give the treat once in every two goes. Then once a walk. Then every couple of walks.

This should take a good six weeks.

Note you can’t do this with another dog

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If my salukis are on game they are not coming back till its caught or lost simple as that , Training is well and good but trying to dominate the hunting instinct in a good dog is another story.

Starting to get trouble with mine losing one and heading off to find another instead of coming back. When she was younger, she really didn't like running out from me for too long, but that's starting to change at 2 years. It's a worry because it's never far from a major road in my local area. Otherwise she is eager to please and has decent obedience, but not sure what I can do when she is out of sight and quite probably can't hear my whistle. (x not a pure)

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If my salukis are on game they are not coming back till its caught or lost simple as that , Training is well and good but trying to dominate the hunting instinct in a good dog is another story.

Starting to get trouble with mine losing one and heading off to find another instead of coming back. When she was younger, she really didn't like running out from me for too long, but that's starting to change at 2 years. It's a worry because it's never far from a major road in my local area. Otherwise she is eager to please and has decent obedience, but not sure what I can do when she is out of sight and quite probably can't hear my whistle. (x not a pure)

 

 

Same here roads, tight perms or live stock you don't want to disturb and a dog that can scent some thing in the next county. Can you heel the dog and work it like that ? It was some thing i started with mine and I can keep him to heel in a area that holds game but its hard going so I don't bother most the time but it is doable. Then if he scents some thing he will freeze up and wait for the go. So I can either let him go or get lead on. Far far from perfect mind and all ways the chance he may bolt any way if he thinks I am going to stop him. I just let him hunt for the most part

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If my salukis are on game they are not coming back till its caught or lost simple as that , Training is well and good but trying to dominate the hunting instinct in a good dog is another story.

Granted Sir Probably didn't make myself clear enough , working dogs are 99.9% of the time grounded into their work,

You won't replicate that freedom of flow a running dog gets when on his game and why would you because that's what makes him social

 

On the other hand if pet owners could understand that activating its prey drive is also laying down its social drive in conjunction with its owner

 

Trying to convince pet folk to let the dog bite something is a f***ing uphill struggle to say the least, its programmed to run and bite, if you show it what to bite it can contrast, it doesn't mean it will bite the kids in fact the opposite , these are the types I'm referring to

 

But it is physically possible to manitulate dogs into other forms of cooperation, from the deserts of the Middle East to the checking mail at Heathrow each dog is just expressing prey making through an interaction with its handler, the both have the same feeling and if you can conjure up that feeling in the dog you'll have a social mutt on your hands

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If he's distracted by game or your lovely biddable pup suddenly turns a deaf un you can do what you like its the dog that decides to come back, think its more important what you do after, if you pretend it never happened and praise him and continue to let him loose and have fun it should be fine, but if you show your bothered or restrict his fun it'll just get worse

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If he's distracted by game or your lovely biddable pup suddenly turns a deaf un you can do what you like its the dog that decides to come back, think its more important what you do after, if you pretend it never happened and praise him and continue to let him loose and have fun it should be fine, but if you show your bothered or restrict his fun it'll just get worse

That's well put , what you hit on there is instead of acting on Instinct the pup can choose social , will only last until proper drive kicks in but is a social marker that it's owner is not a negitive in relation to flow, he gets his back rubbed which helps to relax him and he had a positive return back into your space and that f***ing critical for a pup, crucial in fact

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Jmho but I don't think there is too much mystical going on here, and ignorant c**t of a dog is just that........and there's a cure for that.

It's normally a fairly short process to correct with the occasional refresher course over its lifetime as the need arises.

 

The only "trick" is realising when it's being a stupid teenager and when it's being a deliberately ignorant c**t !

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