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Ruger 10-22 Zeroing Problems


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Good news it was a simple fix. Regarding the tool they used to set the scope in the shop, it's known as a shot saver. Not designed or fit for the purpose they applied it for. I say this as I once had a .243 set up with scope in the RFD and they used one of these bloody tools. Fortunately I zeroed into a twenty foot high embankment and was shooting well high above the paper which took some shots before I saw fall of shot. Had I zeroed on to a smaller backstop, I may have been a real danger! Much better to set the rifle on a bean bag and physically bore sight with the mk1 eyeball through the barrel and adjust scope to suit.

Absolutely.

 

 

The shot saver will put you in the area, if you were that far off something went wrong or someone didn't know what they were doing.

 

Regardless of that, bore sighting by eye really isn't that difficult, then start real close to your zeroing target and take it from there.

 

:thumbs:

 

Edit

As walshie has pointed out, bore sighting by eye on a semi isn't the easiest thing :laugh: , so just start real close to the zeroing target and adjust as you move further away.

 

No it won't. The shotsaver is designed for resetting the scope after removing from the rifle for a rough zero back to where it was prior to removing the scope. They are useful when swapping scopes about on various rifles. They do not necessarily put you on the paper as I explained or thought I had,when fitting a scope for the first time. They can be dangerous as I found out. Mk 1 eyeball is my only method now. I bore sight as I was taught in the military. 25m boresight onto whatever my barrel points at that can be clearly made out such as a white stone etc and then test shoot and I'm always on the paper first shot at 100m.

I hadn't considered that it was a semi but even so those shotsavers should have a public health warning stamped on them IMO.. :yes:

 

 

They work after a fashion and they put you in the AREA, I didn't say they put you on the paper, that's why I said .....

 

The shot saver will put you in the area, if you were that far off something went wrong or someone didn't know what they were doing.

 

I stand by that because that is the results I have had in the past. I am not for a minute suggesting they are brilliant, or all you need and will provide a spot on shot, they put you in the area. I would also suggest Bore sighting by eye, and as I have said several times, make the first shot CLOSE regardless!

 

I personally think you are bonkers taking a first shot after any new scope fitting at 100 M, however you have sighted it in. If you start close you are likely to find any discrepancies of your sighting in safely!

 

:thumbs:

Edited by Deker
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Nothing.   Raise the back of the mount that screws to the top of the receiver. A plastic bottle cut and shaped shim should do it.   U.

Good news it was a simple fix. Regarding the tool they used to set the scope in the shop, it's known as a shot saver. Not designed or fit for the purpose they applied it for. I say this as I once h

They work after a fashion and they put you in the AREA, I didn't say they put you on the paper, that's why I said .....   The shot saver will put you in the area, if you were that far off something

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Totally agree with Deker, I dont care what you have used to do an initial sight in, unless you have a huge backstop, taking your first shot at 100 yards is not the done thing, 25,50, then a 100 is generally what works for me, and more importantly, is safe.

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Totally agree with Deker, I dont care what you have used to do an initial sight in, unless you have a huge backstop, taking your first shot at 100 yards is not the done thing, 25,50, then a 100 is generally what works for me, and more importantly, is safe.

Okay I'll bite. Firstly lets get something clear, I am a safe shooter, which is why I went to the trouble of securing myself exclusive permission to use this disused quarry to zero in. The end in the foreground is an extremely steep pitch and gives over 60ft in height of backstop! I generally shoot from the far end which from the top of the quarry down into it and it gives me up to 270m down into a perfectly safe backstop. I've had it cleared upto .308 by my FEO who asked to see it after a chat we had.

 

Now as I said, I bore sight at 25m onto a prominent stone etc which is easily identified looking though the barrel. I then adjust the scope reticule down onto the same stone/point of aim. So..How can the scope possibly be much out if the two align? It simply can't be, So I'm on the paper at 100m first shot and adjust in from there. People using a shot saver which is simply not designed for this task is IMO .. Simply "Bonkers" :D

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Totally agree with Deker, I dont care what you have used to do an initial sight in, unless you have a huge backstop, taking your first shot at 100 yards is not the done thing, 25,50, then a 100 is generally what works for me, and more importantly, is safe.

Okay I'll bite. Firstly lets get something clear, I am a safe shooter, which is why I went to the trouble of securing myself exclusive permission to use this disused quarry to zero in. The end in the foreground is an extremely steep pitch and gives over 60ft in height of backstop! I generally shoot from the far end which from the top of the quarry down into it and it gives me up to 270m down into a perfectly safe backstop. I've had it cleared upto .308 by my FEO who asked to see it after a chat we had.

 

Now as I said, I bore sight at 25m onto a prominent stone etc which is easily identified looking though the barrel. I then adjust the scope reticule down onto the same stone/point of aim. So..How can the scope possibly be much out if the two align? It simply can't be, So I'm on the paper at 100m first shot and adjust in from there. People using a shot saver which is simply not designed for this task is IMO .. Simply "Bonkers" :D

 

 

:laugh::laugh::laugh:

 

Nobody, well certainly not me, has suggested using a shot saver, and certainly not at 100Metres, I suggested using your eyes! I simply pointed out shot savers are not as bad as you seem to suggest.

 

I would agree anyone trying to use one and then checking first shot at 100M (nearly 110 yards) is bonkers. :thumbs:

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Back to the OPs original post, if you bought a new car that pulled violently to the left all the time, you would take it back to the dealer to fix it. You wouldn't much care if he used the latest laser technology to fix it or mirrors and a bit of string, as long as the problem was sorted 100% first time.

 

If they couldn't do it, you'd get your money back as not fit for purpose and shop elsewhere. Well I would.

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