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Ruger 10-22 Zeroing Problems


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Nothing.   Raise the back of the mount that screws to the top of the receiver. A plastic bottle cut and shaped shim should do it.   U.

Good news it was a simple fix. Regarding the tool they used to set the scope in the shop, it's known as a shot saver. Not designed or fit for the purpose they applied it for. I say this as I once h

They work after a fashion and they put you in the AREA, I didn't say they put you on the paper, that's why I said .....   The shot saver will put you in the area, if you were that far off something

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Went back yesterday and they decided it was the mod being pushed down by the sight at the end of the barrel so popped the top off the sight and said it was now straight. Not been out yet will go in the morning. Thing is when they sighted it in in the shop using a tool with a grid on they put in the end of the barrel the elevation on the scope was cranked as high as it would go with out the mod on. When I tried it it was still 18 inch low and no room to move. Im not expecting any improvement but will try in the morning and then take it back again. They said next step was to try another scope but all 3 of mine ive tried work perfect on my other rifles so not holding out any hope that will work either.

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At the end of the day I rather suspect this will be a simple issue, even if it is a manufacturing problem with the rifle.

 

However, #17 doesn't sound encouraging, but who knows. The RFD doesn't sound that interested to me.

 

Did I miss it somewhere, have you tried with the mod removed completely?

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Good news it was a simple fix. Regarding the tool they used to set the scope in the shop, it's known as a shot saver. Not designed or fit for the purpose they applied it for. I say this as I once had a .243 set up with scope in the RFD and they used one of these bloody tools. Fortunately I zeroed into a twenty foot high embankment and was shooting well high above the paper which took some shots before I saw fall of shot. Had I zeroed on to a smaller backstop, I may have been a real danger! Much better to set the rifle on a bean bag and physically bore sight with the mk1 eyeball through the barrel and adjust scope to suit.

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Good news it was a simple fix. Regarding the tool they used to set the scope in the shop, it's known as a shot saver. Not designed or fit for the purpose they applied it for. I say this as I once had a .243 set up with scope in the RFD and they used one of these bloody tools. Fortunately I zeroed into a twenty foot high embankment and was shooting well high above the paper which took some shots before I saw fall of shot. Had I zeroed on to a smaller backstop, I may have been a real danger! Much better to set the rifle on a bean bag and physically bore sight with the mk1 eyeball through the barrel and adjust scope to suit.

Absolutely.
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Good news it was a simple fix. Regarding the tool they used to set the scope in the shop, it's known as a shot saver. Not designed or fit for the purpose they applied it for. I say this as I once had a .243 set up with scope in the RFD and they used one of these bloody tools. Fortunately I zeroed into a twenty foot high embankment and was shooting well high above the paper which took some shots before I saw fall of shot. Had I zeroed on to a smaller backstop, I may have been a real danger! Much better to set the rifle on a bean bag and physically bore sight with the mk1 eyeball through the barrel and adjust scope to suit.

Absolutely.

 

 

The shot saver will put you in the area, if you were that far off something went wrong or someone didn't know what they were doing.

 

Regardless of that, bore sighting by eye really isn't that difficult, then start real close to your zeroing target and take it from there.

 

:thumbs:

 

Edit

As walshie has pointed out, bore sighting by eye on a semi isn't the easiest thing :laugh: , so just start real close to the zeroing target and adjust as you move further away.

Edited by Deker
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On rimfires I like to stsrt the zeroing process at 25-30 yards then move back from there

 

Rimfires, bore sight by eye, probably about 60 yards, then shoot around 10 yards away!

 

On centrefires I would tend to bore sight by eye at 80-100 yards, the first shot is still unlikely to be more than 10 yards.

 

There is no point in trying to be clever with the first shot, and you can tell an awful lot by a first shot, even that close!

 

Trying to bore sight by eye VERY close, tells you virtually nothing, you need a bit of distance.

 

It is comforting to find that first shot on the paper, and as above, it will tell you an awful lot!

 

:thumbs:

Edited by Deker
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Whilst we are at it, cleaning your semi is a pain as well.

 

I had a bit of a session in Oxford yesterday afternoon/eve and used my Magtech 7022 Semi, Tikka 223 and Beretta 391 Semi.

 

They are all in various stages of cleaning as I write this.

 

The P8 is off the .223 and being cleaned as well, and for some daft reason I have decided to strip and clean the SAK on my 7022.

 

Has to be done, and I will be pleased when it is, but its a bit of a trek getting through that lot!

 

:thumbs:

Edited by Deker
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Whilst we are at it, cleaning your semi is a pain as well.

 

I had a bit of a session in Oxford yesterday afternoon/eve and used my Magtech 7022 Semi, Tikka 223 and Beretta 391 Semi.

 

They are all in various stages of cleaning as I write this.

 

The P8 is off the .223 and being cleaned as well, and for some daft reason I have decided to strip and clean the SAK on my 7022.

 

Has to be done, and I will be pleased when it is, but its a bit of a trek getting through that lot!

 

:thumbs:

Did a full strip down and clean of my 10/22 on Saturday, which included a full metal polish, I did it because it wasn't cycling properly it turned out to be the 10 shot magazine now I have stripped the 25's down no problem but the 10mag was a bit different and took up the best part of Saturday afternoon, it didn't help when upon undoing the allen bolt two components launched themselves into the darkest reaches of my workshop.

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Good news it was a simple fix. Regarding the tool they used to set the scope in the shop, it's known as a shot saver. Not designed or fit for the purpose they applied it for. I say this as I once had a .243 set up with scope in the RFD and they used one of these bloody tools. Fortunately I zeroed into a twenty foot high embankment and was shooting well high above the paper which took some shots before I saw fall of shot. Had I zeroed on to a smaller backstop, I may have been a real danger! Much better to set the rifle on a bean bag and physically bore sight with the mk1 eyeball through the barrel and adjust scope to suit.

Absolutely.

 

 

The shot saver will put you in the area, if you were that far off something went wrong or someone didn't know what they were doing.

 

Regardless of that, bore sighting by eye really isn't that difficult, then start real close to your zeroing target and take it from there.

 

:thumbs:

 

Edit

As walshie has pointed out, bore sighting by eye on a semi isn't the easiest thing :laugh: , so just start real close to the zeroing target and adjust as you move further away.

 

No it won't. The shotsaver is designed for resetting the scope after removing from the rifle for a rough zero back to where it was prior to removing the scope. They are useful when swapping scopes about on various rifles. They do not necessarily put you on the paper as I explained or thought I had,when fitting a scope for the first time. They can be dangerous as I found out. Mk 1 eyeball is my only method now. I bore sight as I was taught in the military. 25m boresight onto whatever my barrel points at that can be clearly made out such as a white stone etc and then test shoot and I'm always on the paper first shot at 100m.

I hadn't considered that it was a semi but even so those shotsavers should have a public health warning stamped on them IMO.. :yes:

Edited by foxtrotoscar
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