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Remington 700 22.250


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At £2. a pop thats £56 for a box of 20 wtf are they, depleted uranium? time to start loading your own.

Absolutely CC. That's why I never push a shot past my comfort zone. If I went to the range and practiced I'd probably be able to push the rifle further in the field. But as it is I'm very confident ta

Sorry your right. I didn't add that I zero 1" high at 150 yards lol.   If you've never tried the ammo though I'd certainly give them a go. I had a slight accuracy gain but a lot flatter. Also extrem

+ 1 you'll have to test various rounds. Although I've only tried a few including norma 53g soft point hornady vmax 55g but have now settled on the new hornady superformance 50g vmax. Out of the 3 tested these are plenty accurate enough out of my .22-250 have managed a 320 yard head shot crow. I zero at 150 yards and that gives me approx 2.2" drop at 300 yards.

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+ 1 you'll have to test various rounds. Although I've only tried a few including norma 53g soft point hornady vmax 55g but have now settled on the new hornady superformance 50g vmax. Out of the 3 tested these are plenty accurate enough out of my .22-250 have managed a 320 yard head shot crow. I zero at 150 yards and that gives me approx 2.2" drop at 300 yards.

Are you sure Dan

Ratmanwan shoots a Remington 22 250

We zero at 150 yards 1 and half inch high

So at 300 yards it drops 2 inch but that includes the the inch and half high it's zeroed at so the drop is 3 n half inch

The theory being at 1 n half inch high at 150 gives you a 4 inch point of impact from 0 to 300 that's a dead fox

If you zero at 150 and it only drops 2 inch at 300 yards then we need to try them bullets

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Sorry your right. I didn't add that I zero 1" high at 150 yards lol.

 

If you've never tried the ammo though I'd certainly give them a go. I had a slight accuracy gain but a lot flatter. Also extremely explosive on Charlie. I've had a few missing limbs on some foxes on bullet exit, I had one that I pulled the shot and bullet impacted the gut fox dropped on the spot to my joy. Though I was going to have a wounded fox on my hands which needed dispatching but they did the business.

Edited by shropshire dan
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+ 1 you'll have to test various rounds. Although I've only tried a few including norma 53g soft point hornady vmax 55g but have now settled on the new hornady superformance 50g vmax. Out of the 3 tested these are plenty accurate enough out of my .22-250 have managed a 320 yard head shot crow. I zero at 150 yards and that gives me approx 2.2" drop at 300 yards.

Are you sure Dan

Ratmanwan shoots a Remington 22 250

We zero at 150 yards 1 and half inch high

So at 300 yards it drops 2 inch but that includes the the inch and half high it's zeroed at so the drop is 3 n half inch

The theory being at 1 n half inch high at 150 gives you a 4 inch point of impact from 0 to 300 that's a dead fox

If you zero at 150 and it only drops 2 inch at 300 yards then we need to try them bullets

 

 

 

Sorry your right. I didn't add that I zero 1" high at 150 yards lol.

 

If you've never tried the ammo though I'd certainly give them a go. I had a slight accuracy gain but a lot flatter. Also extremely explosive on Charlie. I've had a few missing limbs on some foxes on bullet exit, I had one that I pulled the shot and bullet impacted the gut fox dropped on the spot to my joy. Though I was going to have a wounded fox on my hands which needed dispatching but they did the business.

 

Help me out here, I never understand why people say...I zero 1" high... WHY?

 

So, where is the real zero, do you actually know?

 

If you are 1-1.5" high at 150 yards how do you know if that is the top of the arc, is the bullet still rising or falling at that point?

 

If you shoot out to 300 yards why don't you just zero properly at circa 200-250 yards as I suspect that is about where your real zero is, or whatever distance works for you?

 

You have land to shoot on at that distance so why can't you zero at that distance?

 

It is not uncommon to zero a rifle at say 200 yards, and then come back close, say 50 yards and just blat away, knowing where the bullet falls then will enable you to check a 200 yards zero again by shooting at 50 yards, all else being equal (still not foolproof), but I just don't get this I zero 1-1.5" from anything malarkey!

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hi thank you every one for your info on the matter i will give some off the ammo said ago see what happens

 

As has already been said, you have just got to try some.

 

Admittedly in .308, but myself and a pal both bought 700s some years back within a week or two of each other. Mine shoots PRVI to 1", his shoots the same batch to 4".

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It's pretty easy to "get" deker all you have to do is blindly believe what is written on the box of bullets or in some ballistic software nonsense the idea of using a chronograph to prove MV or check shot To shot consistency and real time testing at range is lost on some so just zero 1" high at 100 and it be fine

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The only reason we do it this way is we know that between 0 and 300 yards

That bullet is guaranteed in a 4 inch area high or low 50 yards or 300 yards

We can hit a 4 inch target. as we shoot fox at night that's a dead fox

This works why do we need to know the rest of it

It's not a case of that's what the table says or the box says at all

It works for us why change it

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I just find that easier than trying to see the bullet group at 300 yards. I only use a 4-12x40 scope and although perfect for hunting shooting a zero group and seeing it at 300 yards will be a struggle.

 

:hmm::hmm: :hmm:

 

...but the zero isn't 300 yards, its way less if you are about 2" low at 300 yards!

 

Have you never actually shot a target/zero group out to 300 yards?

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The only reason we do it this way is we know that between 0 and 300 yards

That bullet is guaranteed in a 4 inch area high or low 50 yards or 300 yards

We can hit a 4 inch target. as we shoot fox at night that's a dead fox

This works why do we need to know the rest of it

It's not a case of that's what the table says or the box says at all

It works for us why change it

 

My apologies for taking this a little off topic, and whilst I accept charts/tables are no more than a guide, what ammo are you using to get a 4" spread between 50-300 yards, none of the 22-250 listed here are even close to that!

 

Remington Centerfire Ballistics Table (Hope the link works but lifted from Remington)

 

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Remington+Centerfire+Ballistics+Table&FORM=RESTAB#view=detail&id=4FD9B161B9179432A5A60A7FD924FFC64805AED4&selectedIndex=2

Edited by Deker
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I've shot steel out past 300 yards before now. But found I don't need to For what I do. As abarrett says shoot a fox or steel target upto 300 yards and you've nailed it without any holdover. I've taken rabbits and crows out past 300 yards but only a couple of foxes. I don't really need to take foxes over 250 yards really, the ones I have taken over 300 could have been squeaked in easier or were stubborn to come in.

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I've shot steel out past 300 yards before now. But found I don't need to For what I do. As abarrett says shoot a fox or steel target upto 300 yards and you've nailed it without any holdover. I've taken rabbits and crows out past 300 yards but only a couple of foxes. I don't really need to take foxes over 250 yards really, the ones I have taken over 300 could have been squeaked in easier or were stubborn to come in.

 

If you can then great, but what is this magic 22-250 bullet that performs within 4" from 50-300 yards?

 

...and it still doesn't explain this 1-1.5" high business.

 

Guys, if this is working for you then fine, but there is an assortment of grey areas here that I just don't get!

 

:thumbs:

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