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Experimental Blade Carbon/stainless Blade.


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Had this idea a couple of days ago and had to give it a try. To put stainless steel weld on a high carbon blade for decorative purposes. Think it actually turned out pretty well.     It all start

Well finally got this one finished!   Tried the acid dip, was a bit warm still when i dipped it as as you rightly said midnight in left a ridge, only in 10miniutes but worked faster than i expected!

Got a bit sidetracked with other things as you do but got back on to this today.   Blade having 3 x non magnetic treated, now heated light cherry red.     and quenched in Lydl's finest cooking

Got a bit sidetracked with other things as you do but got back on to this today.

 

Blade having 3 x non magnetic treated, now heated light cherry red.

 

DSCN6815_zpsv8gp9lza.jpg

 

and quenched in Lydl's finest cooking oil

 

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Double tempered to bronze (held it for 10 miniutes before air cooling) then tried an edge but too hard to take a decent edge

 

DSCN6823_zpsvyztguno.jpg

 

Tried a light blue temper and it takes and holds an edge unbelievably well. Carved up a chunk of 2" x 2" and it will still slice a piece of paper edge on held between finger & thumb.

 

DSCN6837_zps8qaev2rk.jpg

Edited by GruffaloGriff
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Tempering information for M2 HSS taken from here http://www.westyorkssteel.com/tool-steel/high-speed-steel/m2/ full PDDF data sheet top rh corner of page.

 

Hardening
Pre heat the steel in two steps; 450-500°C then 850-900°C. Then continue heating to the final hardening
temperature of 1200-1250°C and ensure that the component is heated through. Care must be taken not to
allow the component to remain too long at the hardening temperature. Quench in warm oil or brine. If
quenching in brine allow the tools to equalize, then complete the quench in air. If quenching in oil remove the
component from the oil at about 500°C and then air cool. M2 high speed steel is also suitable for vacuum
hardening.
Tempering
Temper the component immediately after quenching. Heat uniformly and thoroughly to the selected tempering
temperature and hold at for at least two hours (one hour per 25mm of total thickness). Double tempering is
essential and for tools cut by wire EDM triple tempering is strongly recommended.
Temperature [°C] 500 550 600 650 Hardness [hrc] 64 65 64 61

 

So looking at the color/temp chart i have- blue to light blue is potentially between 64 and 61 HRC if i am anywhere even close to that it will be the best blade i have ever made.

Edited by GruffaloGriff
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Looks great !!

You have done your home work on this one !!

Remember steel can't be to hard to take an edge , it's just hard to achieve the edge and its brutal .

Iv never used hss so will follow your reading on it .

The stainless has polished up nice .

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Cheers Midnight, bit more polishing yet but it is coming up nice. Got the acid now for the etch it says warm it up for faster results-assume a stainless pan would be ok and a plastic tray for doing the etch?

 

"You have done your home work on this one !!" Not like me at all, usually just jump in with both feet :laugh: Spent too much time on this one to muck it up now.

 

"Iv never used hss so will follow your reading on it" Pm me your postal address midnight and i will send you a blank to play with next time i get the forge fired up, would be interesting to see what a pro makes of my DIY San Mai.

Edited by GruffaloGriff
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Thanks that's great !!

I would like to see how it works etc .

I wouldn't warm etch it . You might end up with a lip where it becomes stainless . I don't think it will need more that 20 mins in a cold solution .

Iv not really made anything in the last 10 days , tested the new pair I have pretty well tho , we fired 88gram of shot from my sons shotgun at ten yards at one of the larger new designs , it loved it ha ha

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  • 2 weeks later...

Delayed again getting this finished. Actually the main reason was i couldn't decide to go with no guard on put a guard on. I preferred the look without a guard but it didn't feel right in my hand, sharp on the back corner of the blade. I played about with ideas but couldn't come up with anything i was happy with, so put it aside to let the old cogs in the back of my mind work on it for a while, eventually a light-bulb came on and i set to again yesterday. Came up with something that looks good and feels right.

 

Forged up a bit of 6mm A4 stainless rod.

 

DSCN6918_zpso3ryktyc.jpg

 

Shaped it up

 

DSCN6932_zpsnrm0birg.jpg

 

Welded it on

 

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Final blend in and polish ready for acid.

 

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Forged up a couple of more blanks when i had the forge fired up.

 

DSCN6927_zpsv3z1fpul.jpg

 

This one has your name on it Midnight. ;)

 

DSCN6922_zpsvjvxn6qt.jpg

Edited by GruffaloGriff
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  • 2 weeks later...

Well finally got this one finished!

 

Tried the acid dip, was a bit warm still when i dipped it as as you rightly said midnight in left a ridge, only in 10miniutes but worked faster than i expected! :blink:

 

DSCN6949_zpsfuytiadx.jpg

 

As there is not a lot of carbon in sight, by the time i got it honed up there wasn't much contrast showing so i decided i preferred the polished look.

 

DSCN6963_zpsszzioaxg.jpg

 

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End capped wit a silver American Buffalo Nickle

 

DSCN6967_zpsx2aeesio.jpg

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Cheers midnight, i am quite pleased how it turned out especially as it was made up as i went along, but then again most stuff i make is! :laugh: Just need to get round to making a sheath for it, like the look of those wet form ones, need to read up on that.

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A great read this thread thanks for sharing...The knife looks great griff im staggered at just how much work goes into these knifes.

 

Atb

 

kanny

Thanks kanny. It has been fun documenting my experiment and posting the info up. Hopefully others will have a go at making a DIY Sam Mai and can benefit from my trial & error thread. Midnight and others have been helpful in sharing info that has helped me in the process. Best way to learn is from others experience.

Edited by GruffaloGriff
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  • 8 months later...

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