Bought a 22LR CZ Varmint, now a few tweaks and a question

[halamrose 24]

After a few years of FAC air I finally have a FAC with slots for 22lr and 17HMR. So had to decide which to buy first and settled on the 22lr because I like quiet guns and will need practice at longer ranges to get the most out of either of them and 22LR is cheaper to practice with.

 

So then the next question? Old, new or modern second hand? I was tempted by a new CZ 452 Varmint for about £350 but did I want to spend all I felt able to on one gun or keep some back for the HMR later? Looked at and handled a Ruger 77/22 but it didn't feel special. A CZ 381 for £70 was tempting but I didn't like the trigger at all.

 

So I settled on a second hand 452 16" Varmint at a price I was happy with, and a SAK Mod and got them to throw in some Winchester Subs. So I've been itching to give it a try for days.

 

I fitted a basic 3-9x50 scope which I lifted from one of my air rifles. Went into the fields to zero it. Met a few people - an old lady walking her dog was interested so I coached her through a shot - a couple of middle aged folk panicking that I had a gun and they didn't know where one of their dogs was but we got on OK and had a bit of chat about fluffy bunnies - and some bullocks who thought I was interesting and wanted to play rough. I't usually pretty quite where I was but I guess normally I'm sneaking around and not staying in one place for long.

 

Anyway - very happy with my choice but need to tighten my groups at longer ranges than I used the FAC air. Must improve the trigger but I'l try and do it the old fashioned way rather than get a kit. The stock seems to flex when I'm using a sling which seems odd - maybe the front stock mount screw is not tight enough but then I'd rather not be puling on the barrel. Come to that it could do with new stock and trigger guard screws but they seem so pricey - anyone know where I should buy them? I'd prefer hex ones.

 

I don't know whether you know but I get a lot of inspiration from this forum, so thank you all.

 

Halam

[PLEDGEY 493]

I would just Google 'Nuts and Bolts Cambridgeshire', I'm sure you'll get some hits for bolt suppliers in your area. Just take along the bolt that you need and they'll get you a replacement. As for the trigger, just get the trigger kit. Practically everyone that gets a CZ gets a trigger kit in the end, makes such a difference. You can find videos on Youtube to show you how to fit them, it's not hard. They cost around £12.

[halamrose 24]

So I've trimmed the trigger spring and polished the seer but I only had a nail file at my girlfriends so I'll see how it is in the field and take it from there. I know the cost of the trigger kit is minimal but I like to fiddle and come up with my own solutions. Trigger is already much better but I should have tried just leaving out the nut and washer. One thing I did notice that I have not read about is that the jaws of the trigger were a bit tight where they pivot on the rear pin. I relieved them a tiny bit with the nail file and that made the trigger less gritty too.

 

The Screws look better for a clean up a touch of blue pen, I'd still like to get hex screws though as I like to destock my guns to dry them out when I come in cold and they get that instant condensation that they always seem to get.

 

Still puzzled by the stock movement. Those familiar with the 452 will know the front stock screw fixes into a round block that is keyed into a slot a few inches up the barrel. My block stiffly slides in the keyway - is this normal or should the bolt be long enough to lock against the barrel?

 

Cheers,

 

Halam

[toby63 1,236]

yov,ve got fac which lucky bag did you get that in.on another post you didnt even know that any 1 can use shotgun as long as ticket holder is present at the time.its basic knowledge.

[tegater 789]

So I've trimmed the trigger spring and polished the seer but I only had a nail file at my girlfriends so I'll see how it is in the field and take it from there. I know the cost of the trigger kit is minimal but I like to fiddle and come up with my own solutions. Trigger is already much better but I should have tried just leaving out the nut and washer. One thing I did notice that I have not read about is that the jaws of the trigger were a bit tight where they pivot on the rear pin. I relieved them a tiny bit with the nail file and that made the trigger less gritty too.

 

The Screws look better for a clean up a touch of blue pen, I'd still like to get hex screws though as I like to destock my guns to dry them out when I come in cold and they get that instant condensation that they always seem to get.

 

Still puzzled by the stock movement. Those familiar with the 452 will know the front stock screw fixes into a round block that is keyed into a slot a few inches up the barrel. My block stiffly slides in the keyway - is this normal or should the bolt be long enough to lock against the barrel?

 

Cheers,

 

Halam

?

[halamrose 24]

Possibly it's not clear what I'm talking about, maybe not all models of 452 have this, what with the varmint being free floated and all. From the video

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xuH2OPFyTo

 

you can see at 1 minute 10 seconds the round block that the front stock mounting screw engages with just slides out and drops away when you take the rifle out of its stock. You can also see the slot in the barrel in which the part slides sideways. I'd like to know if on the assembled rifle the block should be free to slide or locked by the stock screw?

[iana 25]

Agree with Toby63.

 

With this being your first rimfire application your ticket will be closed I.e. only for use on land deemed fit by the chief police officer. In which case your FAO would have either visited the land or knows the land is ok.

 

Personally I cant see any FAO clearing land that has open access for dog walkers and also cattle for a fist time application.

[Deker 3,450]

Possibly it's not clear what I'm talking about, maybe not all models of 452 have this, what with the varmint being free floated and all. From the video

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-xuH2OPFyTo

 

you can see at 1 minute 10 seconds the round block that the front stock mounting screw engages with just slides out and drops away when you take the rifle out of its stock. You can also see the slot in the barrel in which the part slides sideways. I'd like to know if on the assembled rifle the block should be free to slide or locked by the stock screw?

 

The barrel is only free floating from that bolt/spacer to the muzzle. This fitting needs to be firm, but you also have levels of play in the stock metalwork fitting so you need to align them properly before bolting everything tight.. The bolt you mention does NOT lock against the barrel, it pulls on the round threaded spacer which is dovetailed to fit in a metal dovetailed section on the barrel. It pulls that and holds it firmly there should be no movement here.

Edited November 19, 2012 by Deker