Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  

midnight knife making compatition (only 8 places )

Recommended Posts

lets hope its succesful enough to be repatable !!

might have to go with a small gutting knife in future as everyone seems to want them !!

i will do some bits on the ilistraightion blank i have , im going to change the profile of it and generaly piss about with it but will take piocs they might help you guys !

  • Like 1

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

yeah ebay is the one . you will need to split it in half and grind it flat so you can fit it either side of the tang .

jigged camel bone looks just like antler and its died on the out side with a pattern to look like stag , but they are flat scales so you can fit them easy !!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

i have a set here and they fit perfect , i think i paid £12 for them , if there any good to you ?

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Brass pins 5.5mm tried eBay no joy !! Again any ideas ?

buy brass rods and cut them down to fit i got all my stuff of ebay there is a massive range on there mate :thumbs:
  • Like 2

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

If you are having issues finding antler you could try buffalo horn. Seems to be quite a bit of it on ebay.


My blade arrived today so it'll be out with the files and sandpaper later. I have a few ideas for the handle but cant quite make my mind up ;)

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

just a tip from when i used to do all mine by hand , you want a single cut file , i used drapers garden files (thats what they call them) old fashioned hard ware stores sell them .

because its sigle cut there is only one set of grooves on it , you can remover the metal much faster and more accuratly . and once the angles look right you can plain the metal with them ,

ok so you have removed the metal and got a basic beval , like this .


now you can clamp it good and tight and plain the metal , to get it flat and clean . like this



when its like that clean and flat , id start with sand paper 120 grit , you looking for uniform scratch pattern , dont go in all directions, pic one and stick at it until every serface it the same , this is important , use a backing for the sand paper allways hard , i wrapp the file in it on every grit !!!

when it looks good every where at 120 , change to 240 this will really show any pitting deep screatechs etc , change your direction again , the exact oposite of the last coures is best, change paper regularly and only use it dry at this stage , good tip halfords sell all the sand paper grade you will ever want very affordably , id say now is the time to think what sort of finnish you want on this knife , if you want mirror go through the grits to 600 wet and dry and polish on a buffing mop (on a drill from halfords or what ever you got) if its very shiny at heat treating the scale has not much to stick to and will come off easy , once heat treated you will not get any scractches out unless your like me a freak and will stand there until its done ha ha .

when its where you want it send it back for heat treating .


just to inspire you guys a few knives i did 100% by hand with fire files and sand paper .

a few options of finish to . the big bugger has 120 grit(polished) on the sides and 1200grit on cutting edge .




and a couple just super shiny all by hand






there just there to inspire you along guys , now is the time to go for that mirror finish id say !!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites



That was just what I was lkooking for.


Can't wait for the blank to arrive to get started!!



Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

just another thought guys your gonna strugle to find pins that correspond exactly to drill bits , ebay sellers are pretty good at measuring the diamiter of pins and drill for you before you buy .

i find steel drill bits to be most accurate (i think because they need to be) for example i bought some "advertised 2mm brass the other week , i asked te seller and they where actualy 2.06mm thick . then i thought ok drills are usualy over sized so went for a steel 2mm drill from B&Qand it came in at 1.96mm sounds nothing but the pins would not fit . so i had to cut them 1/3 to long put them in the drill and spin them with sandpaper wrapped round them , makeshift lathe idea , long story short they fitted with light hammer taps with out splitting the handle material . warning tho pilot with wood drill bits as steal will tear there way out when they break through , unless you back them with non ferrouse metal like alluminium .

its alot of fuss i know .

i will try to do a how to fit handles as soon as i can for anyone that is new to it .

tig and gas welding rods are used by alot of knife makers as pins they come in allsorts of materials to , they im told are usualy accurate with diamiters .

i use a loacl modeling shop for alot of stuff they have sheet brass ally tin , and a huge amount of tubing and pins for making prop shafts for boats etc . worth a try !!


is anyone going for the mirror finish file work etc ?

im enjoying this already nice to get a comunity thing going !

all the best , matt


just one place left fellas


1 seat left


knife comp .

#1Sheffield Catapults








Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

good man .

there are two blanks sat her , one for waidman i dont think he has paid ?

and one unspoken for .

shall we close the books at 7 places this time ?



i have another set of 10 blanks that i can offer up for the next comp if nayone is intrested ?

little more complicated this time but the metal work is done so it will be handleing in inovative ways !!

Share this post

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By riohog
      a few blanks profiled and ground .from 3mm  bohler n690  stainless  ,ready for cyro and heat treatement  .

    • By riohog
      ready for heat treatement !! .cut and profiled from 3.25mm  bohler n690 .  premium austrian stainless

    • By riohog
      skinner  .from austrian  bohler n690 stainless   red g10 over black g10 liners    .handle 

    • By GruffaloGriff
      It is an idea that has been floating around in my head for a while....using wast oil to fire a forge up to welding temp. Anyone that does much forge welding knows fuel is expensive!
      I was looking to keep it as simple as possible so gravity fed fuel and low pressure air with no fancy nozzles to get clogged.
      This is the solution i came up with.
      Based around an old propane bottle. Filled with water and cut top and bottom off.
      P1090436 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090437 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090438 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      Brake disk welded on vent end and an old chimney pot for the inner skin.
      P1090440 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090442 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090443 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      Ceramic wool on the inside of the door, base and between the pot and the steel bottle.
      P1090444 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090445 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      Painted rigidizer on the ceramic wool on the door and around the pot, layed a piece op polythene on and closed tight and let it dry. The pot was left 20mm proud so it pushed into the wool and formed a checked seal.
      P1090446 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      Cored a hole through the lot for the burner.
      P1090447 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090448 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      Burner 50mm scaffold pipe with stainless milker nipple nozzle on the end. Something like a 8mm steel pipe down the middle for an oil feed. Initially i left the end of the air pie restricted thinking it would spray the oil better but it restricted the air flow too much so i cut it back to nearly full bore.
      P1090449 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090450 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090451 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090453 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090454 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      After first fire the chimney pot is cracked but still in tact. I put o piece of stainless steel 6mm plate in the chamber where the oil lands. This needs to be red hot for the oil to vaporize and ignite. The first burn i just threw some paper and sticks in and lit them up then started injecting oil and air. For the next burn i added a quick hitch point pr a propane line to pre-heat before starting the oil injection.
      P1090455 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090456 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      Pics of the assembled unit. Waste oil holder is just a plumbers gas bottle with the bottom cut off and a simple tap to control the oil flow.
      P1090457 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090458 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090459 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      Here she is on her maiden run at forging steel. Ever optimistic i went for forge welding straight off. About 12 strands of bed spring and 4 strips of file welded in a bundle then forge welded like a cable weld, twisting them together. These pics are all with the burner shut off, just the after glow!
      P1090462 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090463 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090461 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090465 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090468 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090469 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      This thing pumps out insane heat. After running at welding temps for a couple of hours it has actually started to melt the fire-clay chimney pot! May replace it with fire-bricks or refractory, but will wait till it disintegrates,
      P1090470 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090471 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
      In summary: The whole thing was built entirely from scrap.The fuel is even free. The only thing i paid for was the ceramic wool and welding rods. Best used outside. It burns surprisingly clean but i wouldn't chance running it in an enclosed space. The blower is an old variable speed hoover...again off the dump. It pumps out insane heat but is quite adjustable. It will light up again without pre-heat half an hour after the previous shut down....just turn on the oil and air.
      Finally here is the forge welded Damascus blank.
      P1090474 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1090473 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">
    • By riohog
      profiled and first grind , ,now ready for heat treatement , 2 skinners and 2 deerstalkers field knives      , from german  bohler n690   stainless