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when i trained a s a keeper i was showed how to do it with out a knife using the teeth of the rabbit !!

i cant do it tho , ha

i know there is an obsession for small knives for rabbits but i like a larger knife capable of more as the situation arise , i want to be able to brest a pigeon , neck gut a deer or skin a fox all from the one feild knife .

before i trained as a keeper i did a full aprenticship as a butchers , we bopught from market live and went right through to plate , so maybe its down to that that i like a larger knife ?

watched a documentary about tiger poachers ,this bloke shot one with a home made gun then he Skinned it with a razor blade !,no big blade for him.

Edited by derbyduck
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i make knives under a tenner "reddawn" has one here waiting to be pictured , we used to be proud of british made stuff and pay a little more for knowing it was made well and the money stayed in the co

or get one custom made from a british bladesmith knife maker !! the blades on both are the same steel i use alot ! and it can be made to measure to fit your hand and budget ! just an idea .

I have bought a couple of blades of matt for a fiver ..... Can't buy a Stanley for that ! And they are quality blades put a new edge on them no problem .

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yeah we evolve tho dont we im sure i could do it with a peice of broken glass or napped flint , i wouldnt tho , i dont need to, i learn from skilled poeople how to use a knife properly , its like saying you dont need a car you could use a pony , you could but would you ?

 

i think this is one of thos what better 177 or 22 air rifle arguments .

horses for courses , i like a larger knife im not saying that right i just would choose one .

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This is from the link Masmiffy put up about the Mora,

 

 

The blade is only hardened to RC55, sacrificing a little edge retention but giving the blade immense toughness and sharpenability.

 

 

Is it the case of the more hardening applied, the better the edge retention....???....and what about getting it razor sharp again after the edge has dulled.

 

 

Thank You

SINDASOX

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This is from the link Masmiffy put up about the Mora,

 

 

The blade is only hardened to RC55, sacrificing a little edge retention but giving the blade immense toughness and sharpenability.

 

 

Is it the case of the more hardening applied, the better the edge retention....???....and what about getting it razor sharp again after the edge has dulled.

 

 

Thank You

SINDASOX

oil stone then leather belt then car window edge works for me :thumbs:
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This is from the link Masmiffy put up about the Mora,

 

 

The blade is only hardened to RC55, sacrificing a little edge retention but giving the blade immense toughness and sharpenability.

 

 

Is it the case of the more hardening applied, the better the edge retention....???....and what about getting it razor sharp again after the edge has dulled.

 

 

Thank You

SINDASOX

 

hardnes is the only thing that gives you the edge. with out that hardness no edge if any will last no matter the quality of the steel . for the last 3,000 years humans have known this and utilised it . the down side of hardening is the steel becomes brital , so we temper . temper is a term that is used for a sequence of treatment that softens the steel so it is no longer brital and runs the risk of snapping .

bladesmith and knife makers if there good will do a differential temper , where they will lower the hardnes in ares where it serves no benifit , (spine , riccaso, tip but not the edge and tang ) that leaves just the cutting edge hard as glass , mas produced knives and alot of customs are just oven tempered , softening the whole blade down , the plus point of that it it will probably not snap etc but will loose edge holding ability a little. as with the mora, its a trade off .

you guys might not like this but the "industry" asumes most users have no idea how to sharpen a knife and wont learn , so they temper whole baldes to lower hrc or rockwell scale (hardnes indicators) 55 is spring temper or there abouts , not great for working tool but most likey wont snap but flex , and when it goes dull and meathead's rub the blade on a house brick or something it will grind a little metal away to establish a new bevel . this is why all thos company sell the bloody shocking "sharperners and sharpening systems) there made for the uninformed joe public looking for a magic bullet !!!! dont buy them !!! they assume you thick !! ask any knife maker if they own one or ever would !!!

 

this is where bench made and custom knives come in , you hope the guy that makes it knows his stuff and can get that killer edge and ballenced temper you need !! some on here make out they know this stuff but i think it shows and it will if you buy one and use it that they dont know !!!!

its not the finnish or the ponced up designs its the quality within that will show in the end , and the skill with which it was made and designed . this stuff is of the most importance in any knife everything else simply does not matter !! but if it looks good and is well finnished as well ........then your getting some quality !!

 

mora knives as we know fill a market need , there not perfect nothing is , there ugly things you might find any house wife peeling spuds with in my mind but i do understand why they sell and why people like them ,

 

when we talk about sharpening for any knife user--- but not maker--- you want to invest in some japanese whet stones , there not that expensive and once you learn to use them will not be beaten , if you ask a cutler, knife makers, bladesmith and the like if they use them ..... the answer will be yes ! ebay sell them at a reasonable price and they come in combinations 600grit one sode 1000 the other , 400 and 600 would be a good chose for working knives , a cotton buffing wheel for a bench grinder or drill mounted in a vice is another great inverstment , as you can strop the blade egde with them and that will bring back an edge that feels dull very well and you can avoid haveing to grind back a little ,but be carfuil they snatch the blade.

forget useing a butchers steel as unless you have been taught to use one and can read bevel angles you will do more harm than good .

 

i hope some of that helps ????

 

anyway thats my proffesor matt part done .

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