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i tried to jump a few grits went badly wrong

but you learn more from failure than success ( well its a theory anyway)

feck me if only that was true :laugh: :laugh:

but it would mean i would learn lots because i do have a lot of feck ups

ive got a whole life times worth :laugh: :laugh:
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beacause he wants to , and it has sentimental attachment to him ,, f**k me you came in like a bull in a china shop there and missed the point buy about 4 miles !!! he asked me about mirror finnish i

well this was my grandfathers bill hook quite old and is having a make over,these are piks of before i started and of some pieces of wood im going to use for the handle think the elm is the one for me

good luck with it ! go steady with the grinder its easy to remove to much or just plunge in and make it uneaven . slow is smooth smooth is fast ha ha . im looking forward to seeing the finnished pro

no with enough elbow grease it will go to mirror finnish . its a shame your not coming over with it i have a machine that would surface grind it flat and take it to an even 120 grit finnish , would have saved lots of work and establish a grain to the metal .

the wax on the wood is to stop splitting as the wood continues to dry , the cut edge would dihidrate faster and cause warping/splitting . it justs sands away !

it does loom beautiful wood !

will the linisher do the same job? i have bought some 60 and 80 flap paddles for the grinder but have 120 400 800 and 1200 and a sanding block also a buffing wheel that im hoping will be ok ,not sure which grit is on the linisher ,might just give it a quick blast and do the rest by hand.

 

Jesus - it's an old billhook. Why all the fuss - if it's sound and the tang's in good nick just make/buy a new handle and ferrule - file any dinks out and take a stone to it for an edge and if you're gonna use it for work maybe a diamond sharpener. Why does it need all the fuss and a mirror finish - it's taken years to look lke it does - just do the minimum, use it and apreciate it for what it is. I use hedging tools all winter and some almost 100 years old and they've loads of character and they're practical. Do it justice by doing as little as ou need to do to it...ATB

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lol should of started over bet it can be a ballache like.dide you use the wire wool aswell or just work through the grits?

till i got sick (4 mins ) wire wool, sander ( 3 mins ) brick to finish Edited by henarchchar
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no with enough elbow grease it will go to mirror finnish . its a shame your not coming over with it i have a machine that would surface grind it flat and take it to an even 120 grit finnish , would have saved lots of work and establish a grain to the metal .

the wax on the wood is to stop splitting as the wood continues to dry , the cut edge would dihidrate faster and cause warping/splitting . it justs sands away !

it does loom beautiful wood !

will the linisher do the same job? i have bought some 60 and 80 flap paddles for the grinder but have 120 400 800 and 1200 and a sanding block also a buffing wheel that im hoping will be ok ,not sure which grit is on the linisher ,might just give it a quick blast and do the rest by hand.

 

Jesus - it's an old billhook. Why all the fuss - if it's sound and the tang's in good nick just make/buy a new handle and ferrule - file any dinks out and take a stone to it for an edge and if you're gonna use it for work maybe a diamond sharpener. Why does it need all the fuss and a mirror finish - it's taken years to look lke it does - just do the minimum, use it and apreciate it for what it is. I use hedging tools all winter and some almost 100 years old and they've loads of character and they're practical. Do it justice by doing as little as ou need to do to it...ATB

beacause he wants to , and it has sentimental attachment to him ,, f**k me you came in like a bull in a china shop there and missed the point buy about 4 miles !!!

he asked me about mirror finnish i answered !

he can do what ever he likes with it ! and from what we have discussed he is useing the revamp as an opertunity to learn about the other skills involved , so why not do it ?

 

have you ever seen a mirror finnish antque bill hook with a beautiful handle ? iv not and id really like to . its an opertunity for him to show that he cares it was his late grandfathers and wanted to see it made to fit himself and look as he wants it to .

 

going back to skiping grades of paper , simple answer is no , unless you use a knife makers linisher with trizact belts , even then you only miss one or two , then head to the 2hp buffer and use the mops and compounds i mentioned before .

i sometimes go one more and use autosol on an unstiched mop flat out , it brings out the white in the steel as the japs say !

 

all the best , matt

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as above its sentimental and planning on using the new lease of life as a cleaver i think will learn much and get what i want out of it.not everyone likes to make do!

i always like to make the best out of everything and feel this is what i will get a nice new blade out of good quality british made steel.

i can buy a handle for a couple of quid but it wont be asthetically pleasing,i aim to get the best and hopefully will make future projects easier also i have the tools to hand so why not !

wouldnt chop my sunday lunch up with a rusty old blade would you?

atb

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well this is after the first blast on the linisher think it needs a fresh sanding belt didnt go mental with it,taken out most damage to the spine and some of the surface rust

 

tang012.jpg

not very good pics like

 

tang013.jpg

 

tang014.jpg

 

not sure how im going to tackle the indent might smooth it out slightly

 

tang011.jpg

the blade is quite pitted and will need a bit of work to get a smooth finish.

 

got a week off next week so will get more time to get on

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looks good . be nice to see that tang lower , maybe 1" lower at the tip . i think it will improve handling and looks .

i think thsat indent has to be there for a reason just got to work out what ?

id worry it cre3ated a weak spot but 100 years seem to prove that not to be right !!

linisher well needs a belt change or more pressure . it should have eat that rust away !

 

its a good start tho .

all the best , matt

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more in line with the blade ?

yer it needs changing maybe more pressure also ,suppose to be 80 grit which i thought would of cleared it with ease,

would it not need heating to change that much ?

as you can tell its distorted slightly but shouldnt be noticable once it all same colour :D

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80 grit is a bit weak . 40 or 60 would be better .

the tang can be soft it will do no harm to it . blow torch and a hammer could see that sorted . you could allways water quench it to get some hardness back in there if you felt you needed to . i did draw on a copy of the pic this morning but the computer said no ....................

i thick if it was me . i would measure the width from the spine to where the edge begins at the handle end .

mark the same distance at the tip and cut the edge back straight , give it a more angular look so loose the round nose and go straight . i wish i could draw it the pc is shit !

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I bought a new (english) billhook a few years ago, its got a nice forge hammered finish about it, probably similar to the last photo you posted...Which could be a nice contrast to a mirrored edge. Just an idea. Anyway nice little project. Should imagine it'll be a nice thing to use, especially as it was the grandad's. & probably for the next generation aswell.

 

By the way, if you take of the whale back of the blade you are reducing a fair bit of weight when swinging the billhook, which might make it redundant for its original purpose.

Edited by GD Waz
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