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GruffaloGriff

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Everything posted by GruffaloGriff

  1. Very nice. I like the contrast of the red/black/bronze spacers.
  2. You have been busy. Stunning work as always Nicolas, thanks for sharing.
  3. That's a bummer! Horrible feeling when that happens.? Will keep my eyes open.
  4. This guy recommends nitromors but wrap the whole thing in a bin bag to soak without drying out. http://riflesunlimited.co.uk/stock_refinishing
  5. I found you need the jig to keep the blade in a consistent position on the wheel. Free hand it wanders all over the place and is impossible to get a decent edge. As Balaur says try a smaller wheel to slow the surface speed down. The faster speeds i found don't work quite as well. Tip: Frequently flip the blade toward the end of the sharpen and give light passes.
  6. Cost me £25 to build. MORE DETAILS Griff
  7. View Advert Stag Fixed blade Hunting Knife £47 posted Modified from a stock Coffin Bowie style Rough Rider. Guard modified & re-profiled, handle smoothed & re-finished, sharpened & ready to go. Finishes are all much smoother & refined than a stock knife. Blade is surgical stainless 142mm long X 5.5mm thick. Overall length 265mm £47posted Over 18's Only Advertiser GruffaloGriff Date 11/09/20 Price £47
  8. The Moras are Sandvik stainless steel. If you go onto Heinnie Haynes and search for Sandvik it gives you quite a few options. You should pick up something for under £40. Just check with the frame/linear locks knives that they can be operated left handed as some are recess for the stud only on the Right. This one seems to fit the bill though. QS Piglet.
  9. You can't go wrong with a Mora for a use & abuse knife. You could buy a horizontal carry sheath for one. people make/sell them on ETSY . You could even adapt an original sheath. with a couple of loops fitted around it so it can be worn horizontal on your belt. These CLIPS are good for horizontal carry sheath making. I use them when i make a Kydex sheath. P1060532_zpsqhqtof1g by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr P1060883_zps3seusc9f by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr
  10. Not realy for grinding just putting a wicked sharp polished edge on. Saying that it is surprising how much removal it will do.
  11. Very nice! Where do you get your 1095 powder from?
  12. Yes a lot of choice out there. Depends what your budget is. If you go for something with blade steel S35VN you won't go far wrong. If you are after a light weight knife the Boker Plus Exskelibur II is nice. I have one and can't fault it. No thumb stud but the action is so smooth it can easily be pinched open with one hand. https://www.heinnie.com/boker-plus-exskelibur-ii-carbon-fibre VG10 is another good blade material to look out for. I have a Spiderco Delica new in a box which i would sell. Pm if interested. It has a thumb hole and is easily opened with one hand. https://www.heinnie.com
  13. If you don't mind a locking blade then a framelock with a thumb stud is good for one handed opening. Non locking is a bit trickier to find one that is easily open-able with one hand.
  14. Heard a while back mention of sharpening with MDF wheels but never really paid much attention. I recently thought i would give it a go and turned up a quick MDF wheel on the face-plate of my wood-working lathe. I clamped a makeshift guide to the back of the lathe and worked with the wheel turning away from me. I was blown away by the results! Super sharp paper slicey edge straight off the wheel. Decided a dedicated MDF wheel sharpener was high on the list of must haves so started gathering bits. I was lucky enough to pick up an old 8" Makita bench grinder on ebay for £25. Everythin
  15. Here is the UK legal carry Opinel mod slip-joint i have been working on. I dropped the point on the original no8 blade and shortened it to 3" The slightly unusual shape was determined by the central pivot point and steps in the original blade. You can see this from the pre-assembly pic. Although it looks slightly unusual it has the advantage of giving a shoulder to place your thumb on which actually holds the slipjoint spring in making it even more solid and less likely to fold up on your fingers than a normal slipjoint design. Milled brass liners with soldered
  16. That's a stunner. Nice pictures also.
  17. A little something for the Mora fans that don't want a fixed blade. 104mm Sandvic stainless Mora blade with the classic scandi grind. N0 8 Opinel hardware and fitted to red stag antler with stabilized core. Phosphor Bronze contact plates to give smooth long lasting action. Overall length of knife is 140mm P1100485 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100465 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100464 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100482 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100459 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr">P1100469 b
  18. Never made much of the uk blades forum site myself. The Edge Matters knife forum has a lot of good stuff on it and seem well run and maintained https://edgematters.uk/ Regards Griff
  19. Old bit of teak that. Dug it out of the ground 30yrs ago looked like a timber off a shipwreck. Been a while since they made ships from teak!
  20. .....A knife made from a wheel bearing. Recently changed the front wheel bearing on my car. I had heard the steel can make good blades so did a bit of research. Bearing steel tends to be Bohler 52100 and indeed makes good knife steel with a good chromium content keeping the carbide grains small and the blade tough. I made this carver for the kitchen, similar to the shape of the one that it is replacing (inferior cheap stainless and now well worn from sharpening). The handle is melamine, not the most exotic looking but functional. The blade is made from the opposite side
  21. Nicolas i see you solder your bolsters, any tips for soldering bolsters and cleaning excess solder off without scratching things. Regards Griff
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