chook1
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Posts posted by chook1
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Get some bitter apple spray and spray your hands before handling, everything you have said is just play the jumping at you to bite etc,
my hob was the same, as soon as you opened the court door he would leap at your hands and start biting, it was his way of playing
he's over a year now and i can do anything with him.
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Your quite lucky.
I had to run one of my older bitches to the emergency vets suspected pyo, vet told me it was just a virus(stomach bug) that was after scans, 3 lots of different abs and a weekend in their, costing over 600 quid, couple of days after i had to rush her to my vets, my vets x-rayed she did have pyo, but the puss had turned to solid balls in the uterus, she also had a tumor on her spleen ( im not one for giving up on my dogs, so would do what ever i can if its in their best interests)
they operated and she contracted septicemia, lets just say over 3 grand later and about two weeks in the vets on a drip and shes right as rain,
ab's cost 11 quid per injection, shes the 5th dogs i've had come down with pyo over the last 6 years or so, non were bull breeds,
because of the septicemia her kidneys started to shut down, its a reaction to infection and can happen quite easy.
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Toeing in can also happen as they grow, quite often a pup grows out of it when they reach adult hood,
my deerhound did it for the first year of her life, then just came right again, just keep an eye out for anything else
like the legs bowing, buckling, toes scraping etc
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He's looking good.
Drax is just a bit smaller at 19 1/2
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its never bothered me at the end of the day there dh and dh x they will have some size about themThe size and hunting ability of the deerhound has always been a very controversial issue with many deerhound owners and breeders.
Might be an interesting read for some of you.
Exactly. I'd feel cheated if a DH x didn't have some size to them.
But there's "size" and there's size.
My deerhound is 32" she's the smallest in the litter.
birddog there have been some education days put on since that thread for judges,breeders and owners,
there's only been a few but its a start.
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The size and hunting ability of the deerhound has always been a very controversial issue with many deerhound owners and breeders.
Might be an interesting read for some of you.
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Your right mate still alot of cover about got asked to move some rabbits out of a spinney Sunday night had a look round but even with the shotguns it will be hard work and i cant be arsed to snare and trap them so passed the permission on to a lad whos just starting out. We will have to get a day out this season mate. AtbGot a few mates up north country that have been out and had good days. I havent been out this end yet Fitchet. Greenery is all still too high for my liking. Seen a few smaller rabbits out on the lamp too, so would rather let them bulk out a bit. If the cold mornings carry on, I might be out in 3-4 weeks.
Yeh bud. Sure I've got your number somewhere. My old man has been out in chester and spoke to a friend near warrington and they've had some good numbers and the cover is thinning. Goes to show what a difference it makes to be 150 miles north.
Think it depends on where you are north, cover is still very thick and high hear and I'm only 30 mins from warrington.
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Leave well alone - you will find the ears are still developing and when hes more mature both should go up,
if they don't its still nothing to worry about, so long as he is responding to sound.
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.... Done some searching on here regarding raw feeding to a puppy. Going to get some minced chicken carcass and minced beef, canned fish and occasional liver.
Pup will be nine weeks old......so when will I be able to feed turkey necks and lamb bones etc?
Should I bother to include a mixer and is there anything else you would advise?
Thanks
Now
Mine was eating whole chicken carcases, wings etc at 8 weeks, just supervise to make sure the pup isnt trying to swallow big pieces.
If you can get hold of it, lambs belly is good - my butcher sells me 6lb for 2 quid, it does stink though worse than tripe.
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Did they do an aspiration ? to see what it was.
Wouldn't pay £500 for a simple lump removed,
it cost that much for my lurchers leg to be removed and that's a lot bigger than a lump!
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Vets 4 pets also do a life time vaccanation program for 99 quid, works out cheaper in the long run.
http://www.vets4pets.com/healthy-pet-special-offers/vac4life/
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Slightly off topic but how many owners stick to the booster annually?
I get the lepto done annually as my lot are forever wallowing in water and drinking out of ponds when out,
rest is done every 3 years, as there's been a high number of parvo cases locally in recent years
would rather not take the risk.
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Sit with it in the parked car a few times for 5 or 10 minutes with the engine off
Then do the same with the engine idling
Then very short trips building distance up slowly
This has always worked for me.
Also try giving it a couple of ginger biscuits half or so before you go out.
Cheers, D.
Tried it didnt work for me.
Travel sickness tabs from the vet then?
Cheers, D.
Cheaper buying them from the chemist, the vet ones either tab form or injection cost over 15 quid for one dosage.
Stugeron from the chemist works just as well, its a form of antihistamine called cinnarizine, the other types chemist sells
are best avoided as the ingredients used are what is used sometimes before operations as it drys up the mucus membranes.
http://www.netdoctor.co.uk/travel-health/medicines/stugeron.html
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I only use a vet to do my dogs jabs, but just shop around after all they are supplying a service you are not going to them for a consultation as such just to administer a medicine?
I only get the first initial jabs done and I don't use boosters other than Lepto if I think the dog needs it. I believe boostes are NOT always needed every year any more, inoclations have moved on and don't need to be used as regularly, so worth doing your homework before going to the vet.
Most vets don't do the full booster every year any more, my own vets use the 3 year one, but lepto is done every year.
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Lots and lots of trips out, my pup was the same, couldn't go less than 2 mins down the road before he would puke, now although he still salavates a lot he can go over an hour without puking, my local walk is only 5 mins lead walk to get there, but take them in the car insted as the more he's out the better he gets, he knows at the end of the car ride there's a fun walk so is getting less and less stressed about the car.
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Still much better than my (well can't even call it a lawn) with 3 bedlington x's types its 100 foot of disaster. Thought about putting fake grass in probably last longer lol.
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them deerhounds were shit weren't they
Probably cause deerhounds aren't bred to catch hares.
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Some dogs can go through a skinny stage, if he's getting loose stools i would look at what your feeding,
cut the tripe out for now and just give the dried and occasional carcass and see how he go's if he's still getting loose stools
then change the dried food.
with the skinniness he may need more food, my full deerhound gets double to triple that a day.
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Apparently the upper and lower jaw can grow at different rates as the pup matures. Looked into it a bit when I got my GSP bitch. Her jaw was/is quite bad mind you and didn't correct itself. As said...doesn't affect her in any way. Hopefully yours will ;-)
Both sides can also grow at different rates also.
Just found this though.
http://www.dentalvet.com/patients/orthodontics/pet_orthodontics.htm
Occlusion is controlled by genetics, nutrition, environment, and by mechanical forces generated by the interlock of the upper and lower teeth. Some abnormal bites (malocclusions) have been proven to be genetically influenced, such as severe over or under bites, and wry bites. Other bite abnormalities are known to be acquired (non genetic). Acquired malocclusions can result from tug of war games played with towels or ropes which move teeth into abnormal position. Traumatic birthing can also responsible for some acquired abnormalities.
To help define whether the malocclusion is genetic in origin, interdigitation of the premolars is studied. In breeds that have medium and long muzzles, the premolars should meet in a saw-toothed fashion. For example, the tip of the lower third premolar should be positioned equally between the crowns of the upper third and fourth premolars. If the tip of one premolar points to the tip of another premolar, there may be a genetically induced malocclusion. This only holds true in those breeds that do not have shortened muzzles.
Some genetic bite problems do not show up in each litter because they are recessively passed on. The goal of selective breeding is to mate one animal to another that has superior occlusion.
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I wouldn't worry just yet, only thing you do need to watch is when they start loosing the puppy teeth as it can sometimes cause problems
in they can retain them or the puppy teeth if they don't come out properly they can push the adult teeth out of line.
A dog's jaw finishes growing at approximately ten months of age, and until that time a mild under or overshot should be left alone as it may corrct itself spontaneously during the growth period. A severe bite structure problem is unlikely to be corrected with aging, but should not be surgically corrected until the puppy is older and has finished growing. -
Mine don't like the chicken mince so no point mixing it lol.
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None of mine would eat that either, although the ferrets would have a go.
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Sorry for hi jacking your Thread joe
I am going to stock up as much as i can before the increase
Don't blame you if you have the room do it.
Decided To Take A Chance With This Jill
in Ferrets & Ferreting
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All's you can do is try her and see what happens.
Ive just got a new jill, friend works for a small rescue - they had gone to pick up a litter of pups and she was sat in a cage half bald and full of fleas
so they took her as well, the rescue doesn't deal with ferrets, so she came to me - took hours to get rid off all the fleas on her,
but shes a very lively jill, looks to be one of this years - she loves the dogs and will bounce up and down the cage at them, fed her a day old chick
when she arrived, she snatched it and started shaking it, so hoping once she has learned to calm down she wont be a bad worker.