chook1
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Posts posted by chook1
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posted this in lost and found but will stick it in here aswell,found this evening in kent small chocolate brown what looks like a whippet cross bitch not very old,looksi like she has been looked after well fed and clean,ok with me for a few days.any one tell me who i should contact official like.
Contact your local dog warden tomorrow, also contact dog lost to put a found post up
and contact Lurcher search and give kaye the details,
might also be good to contact your local dog pound and give them the details
of the dog, incase anyone contacts them as well.
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Beddy x whippet/grey, 11 months old.
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Wouldnt mind seeing some of the old stuff
My Bitch recently out on the track.
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Unfortunaly Bumble bees are rapidley in decline, theres 2 different types already been lost,
so i can understand why some people get angry over bees not being left alone.
on the other hand (no i dont have kids) but i can fully understand why you want them gone
in any way possable.
You say you realy dont want to kill them, well hears how to remove the nest - bees and all.
bumblebees are not at all aggressive, seldom sting, and are very easy to live with. We very much hope that people will only try to move nests that are in a particularly inconvenient location. Underground nests will be more difficult to move, as you'll create a considerable amount of disturbance as you dig down to the nest. However, if it's outside and underground then there should be no reason to move it.
If you do need to move it, you will either need to do this yourself or get help from 'pest control' specialists (who will most likely destroy the colony).
To move a nest safely it's best to do it in the dark - when all of the bees will be in the nest and docile. They might buzz a bit but they wont fly in the dark, so you can do it reasonably safely. They don't see red light well, so if you need to see what you're doing, put some red plastic film/acetate over a torch or use a red L.E.D. rear cycle light.
If the nest is in a bird box then simply stuff a washing up sponge into the entrance hole, remove the box from the wall/tree and move it to another location, either in your garden or elsewhere (more than 3km away is best, to be sure that the bees don't get confused and fly back to your garden).
Nests in more complicated locations are a little more difficult. Assuming that you can get access somehow, you should still be able to move it. Find a shoe box, or something similar - perhaps larger for a particularly big nest. Put dry grass or dry moss in the bottom of the box to rest the nest in. Make a 2cm hole in the side, and cover it with selotape of some kind of bung. Then at night (with a red light), do whatever is necessary to get access to the nest. Pick it up (either wearing long-sleeves and gardening gloves, or perhaps using a spade), pop it in the box, and shut the lid. Try to keep the nest upright, otherwise their honey pots will spill. Put the nest somewhere sheltered, and put a board or something waterproof over the top to keep the rain out. It's also best to avoid direct sunlight if you can. Ideally keep the nest very local (e.g. elsewhere in your garden) or move it at least 3 km away.
Once you've moved them, and the bees have settled down, just remove the selotape/bung. The bees might take a little while to adjust, but they should take to their new home pretty well.
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Couple of pics from dava and an ardkinglas bitch I think its possibly adrkinglass xcel ?!? not 100% sure
The last one is Val - not xcel
http://www.deerhoundhistory.com/ardkinglas-2/ardkinglas-%E2%
%93-the-1980s/ch-ardkinglas-val-1987/ -
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If he has 3 dogs fitting, then sorry but it would be stright to the vets.
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Well got news for you fellas my dad works in making and designing these types of vaccines and also designs and test performance enhancing products for dogs. Boosters ARE nessecery now as they've change the way the vaccine works before it used to give you dog small amounts of each virus to train and teach your dogs immune system to fight the viruses and as a result have better immunity for life, similar to our meningitis jabs and such, well that's all changed. company's who make the vaccines realised much more money could be made by altering the vaccine to work in another method it now works in a different manner instead of improving the immune system it works by staying active in the dogs body in the same way flea drops work. It steps in before the immune system to distroy the virus and after 12 months that sytems disapates then it's just luck if your dog doesn't come in contact with it if you dont have a bosster to put that defence back. They call this new vaccine the live vaccine I think this is why now dogs need it every 12 months as it only stay live for that amount of time, I'm lucky with my dad being in the business to know these things but to you guys who think the vaccine last longer then 12 months are mistaken. Vets obviously love this new vaccine as more money is made and same to the companies who manufacture the vaccine . Hope I've helped clear this up for you lads and lasses and just hope it sinks in lol sorry if people think I'm being know it all just trying to help
Which one - live or modified live?
and which company does your dad work for?
most vets give live vaccines my own dogs have been done with dhppi,
A live vaccine is a vaccine in which the live infectious agent is weakened through chemical or physical processes in order to produce an immune response without causing the severe effects of the disease in the animal that is vaccinated.
recomendations from the data sheet Booster vaccination
It is recommended that dogs be revaccinated with canine distemper virus, canine adenovirus and canine parvovirus every 3 years and against canine parainfluenzavirus every year.
Modified live vaccines.
A modified live vaccine is one that utilizes an attenuated (weakened) bacteria or virus to elicit an immune response,
they give a stronger protection, often over a quicker period of time. Additionally, they cost less and require minimal dosage. On the downside, they have the potential to become active and trigger disease, especially in an animal with a weak immune system.
There is not many places in the country that use the modified live ones.
These are all the vaccines that are being used in this country.
http://www.vmd.defra.gov.uk/pdf/Vaccines_authorisedDog.pdf
Duramune,Nobivac and VANGUARD are the ones that vets use mostly.
I'm not sure being honest mate what I posted was my best interpretation of what my dad told me, some times my old man gets way to technical for me forgetting I havnt got the same brain power as him lol might be best I get him to post on here on this topic for me might be able to explain things better rather then someone just copying and pasteing an article. As this is his area of expertise
Yes get him to post - think it will be intresting to see what he says.
There are other different types of vaccines, but most are still in the expermental stage,
and it will be a hell of a long time - if ever they come out in this country,
as most vets will stick to what they know.
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They dont look that bad, tbh its hard out in the wild to get decent photos of them
at a distance, especaly if you at end up at the end of your focal range.
I took some of some capitive hawks recently, and even though i was meters away
from them, it was still difficult, unfortunaly you cant controal where they fly
or the light, you just have to make the best of what your given.
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Well got news for you fellas my dad works in making and designing these types of vaccines and also designs and test performance enhancing products for dogs. Boosters ARE nessecery now as they've change the way the vaccine works before it used to give you dog small amounts of each virus to train and teach your dogs immune system to fight the viruses and as a result have better immunity for life, similar to our meningitis jabs and such, well that's all changed. company's who make the vaccines realised much more money could be made by altering the vaccine to work in another method it now works in a different manner instead of improving the immune system it works by staying active in the dogs body in the same way flea drops work. It steps in before the immune system to distroy the virus and after 12 months that sytems disapates then it's just luck if your dog doesn't come in contact with it if you dont have a bosster to put that defence back. They call this new vaccine the live vaccine I think this is why now dogs need it every 12 months as it only stay live for that amount of time, I'm lucky with my dad being in the business to know these things but to you guys who think the vaccine last longer then 12 months are mistaken. Vets obviously love this new vaccine as more money is made and same to the companies who manufacture the vaccine . Hope I've helped clear this up for you lads and lasses and just hope it sinks in lol sorry if people think I'm being know it all just trying to help
Which one - live or modified live?
and which company does your dad work for?
most vets give live vaccines my own dogs have been done with dhppi,
A live vaccine is a vaccine in which the live infectious agent is weakened through chemical or physical processes in order to produce an immune response without causing the severe effects of the disease in the animal that is vaccinated.
recomendations from the data sheet Booster vaccination
It is recommended that dogs be revaccinated with canine distemper virus, canine adenovirus and canine parvovirus every 3 years and against canine parainfluenzavirus every year.
Modified live vaccines.
A modified live vaccine is one that utilizes an attenuated (weakened) bacteria or virus to elicit an immune response,
they give a stronger protection, often over a quicker period of time. Additionally, they cost less and require minimal dosage. On the downside, they have the potential to become active and trigger disease, especially in an animal with a weak immune system.
There is not many places in the country that use the modified live ones.
These are all the vaccines that are being used in this country.
http://www.vmd.defra...thorisedDog.pdf
Duramune,Nobivac and VANGUARD are the ones that vets use mostly.
i use the VANGUARD what type is that
The vanguard ones use - live attenuated.
An attenuated vaccine is a vaccine created by reducing the virulence of a pathogen, but still keeping it viable (or "live"). Attenuation takes an infectious agent and alters it so that it becomes harmless or less virulent. These vaccines contrast to those produced by "killing" the virus (inactivated vaccine).
With vanguard they still state on their data sheet, it only lasts for a year.
Dosage and administration Reconstitute one vial of the freeze-dried fraction (Vanguard DA2Pi) aseptically using the contents of one vial of the liquid fraction (Vanguard CPV-L) as diluent. Shake well and immediately inject the entire contents of the reconstituted vial (1 ml) subcutaneously. Do not use chemically sterilized syringes or needles, as these will interfere with the effectiveness of the vaccine. Basic Vaccination Scheme: Puppies younger than 10 weeks of age: Two doses of Vanguard 7 at least 14 days apart. The first dose can be given as young as 7 weeks of age. The second dose should not be given until at least 10 weeks of age. Puppies 10 weeks of age and older: A single dose of Vanguard 7, followed by a single dose of Vanguard Lepto ci at least 14 days later. Booster Vaccination: Leptospiral components – annual booster vaccination is recommended. Viral components – annual booster vaccination is recommended. However, should Veterinary Surgeons conduct a risk-benefit analysis for individual animals to determine the frequency of revaccination with Vanguard 7, they should be aware of the following information. Serological data has indicated that most dogs, when given at least the first annual booster, can maintain protective levels of immunity to the viral components of Vanguard 7 for up to 4 years.
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Well got news for you fellas my dad works in making and designing these types of vaccines and also designs and test performance enhancing products for dogs. Boosters ARE nessecery now as they've change the way the vaccine works before it used to give you dog small amounts of each virus to train and teach your dogs immune system to fight the viruses and as a result have better immunity for life, similar to our meningitis jabs and such, well that's all changed. company's who make the vaccines realised much more money could be made by altering the vaccine to work in another method it now works in a different manner instead of improving the immune system it works by staying active in the dogs body in the same way flea drops work. It steps in before the immune system to distroy the virus and after 12 months that sytems disapates then it's just luck if your dog doesn't come in contact with it if you dont have a bosster to put that defence back. They call this new vaccine the live vaccine I think this is why now dogs need it every 12 months as it only stay live for that amount of time, I'm lucky with my dad being in the business to know these things but to you guys who think the vaccine last longer then 12 months are mistaken. Vets obviously love this new vaccine as more money is made and same to the companies who manufacture the vaccine . Hope I've helped clear this up for you lads and lasses and just hope it sinks in lol sorry if people think I'm being know it all just trying to help
Which one - live or modified live?
and which company does your dad work for?
most vets give live vaccines my own dogs have been done with dhppi,
A live vaccine is a vaccine in which the live infectious agent is weakened through chemical or physical processes in order to produce an immune response without causing the severe effects of the disease in the animal that is vaccinated.
recomendations from the data sheet Booster vaccination
It is recommended that dogs be revaccinated with canine distemper virus, canine adenovirus and canine parvovirus every 3 years and against canine parainfluenzavirus every year.
Modified live vaccines.
A modified live vaccine is one that utilizes an attenuated (weakened) bacteria or virus to elicit an immune response,
they give a stronger protection, often over a quicker period of time. Additionally, they cost less and require minimal dosage. On the downside, they have the potential to become active and trigger disease, especially in an animal with a weak immune system.
There is not many places in the country that use the modified live ones.
These are all the vaccines that are being used in this country.
http://www.vmd.defra.gov.uk/pdf/Vaccines_authorisedDog.pdf
Duramune,Nobivac and VANGUARD are the ones that vets use mostly.
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tom peppercorn comes down to the track at westhoughton about once a month,
if you ring him he would be able to tell you when he's next down.
Robert Meek - travels round a lot to different greyhound places,
think he comes down to manchester every 2nd sunday of the month.
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I dont think it would matter - morons still buy dogs,
they still pass them from piller to post and still dump them
if they cant get rid.
I have two dogs both who was bought by other people
then gotten rid of, one dog cost 200 quid - the other over 600 quid,
luckily for both dogs they landed on their feet, one was handed in to rescue
and the other was given direct to me through a friend,
they will be hear for life - but it could quite easily gone another way for these dogs.
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Gameness can be appiled to anything not just pit dogs,
it has nothing to do with agression, you could put two fighting dogs
together to fight and neather could have gameness,
Gameness is giveing his/her all under any conditions and never quiting no matter what,
that could apply to someone mountian climbing, someone running a marithon
or a lurcher who's after its pray.
Worth reading what game means!
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that have ended up as bate dogs.
whats a bate dog?
Sorry misspelled (Bait)
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Post them up on Lurcher Link in other homeless hounds,
we've had a few people now find good homes for their x workers,
through posting them on there, we do get people coming on looking for a companion
just for doing some mooching from time to time.
I will warn you though, please do becarefull if and when you do rehome
as there have been some reports on the net recently about dogs going free to good home (mind you seems some have paid money also)
that have ended up as bate dogs.
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If it was meningitis then 5 weeks wouldnt have been long enough for
the steroids, it needs to be at least 2-3 months, starting with verry high doseges(sp)
then weening then off slowley over a period of months.
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Think either way its all still pot luck,
Yes you would have more of a chance when breeding worker to worker,
but end of the day its still pot luck all the pups would inheret(sp) the
drive.
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The cost you pay is the normal price of a booster - insted of the full price of puppy jabs
so it depends on the vets, my vets charge 37 for booster and 50 odd for the full lot,
with the voucher the vet will do the full puppy jabs, i had layla restarted useing this
as she never recived her full puppy jabs, and its been over 2 years since she had her jabs
so it cost me 37 quid insted of the full price.
The voucher would cover it at my vets
If your vets do a full course for 30 quid, then what is their price of just a single booster?
if the single booster cost's 30 quid then thats what you pay, you pay for a single booster, no matter if it costs 5 pound or 50
you dont get a 30 pound voucher to cover everything, if your vets charge a fiver for a single booster
then you still have to pay that fiver.
During National Vaccination Month participating vets will give your dog a full primary course of vaccination for the price of a booster, plus a free health check.
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The cost you pay is the normal price of a booster - insted of the full price of puppy jabs
so it depends on the vets, my vets charge 37 for booster and 50 odd for the full lot,
with the voucher the vet will do the full puppy jabs, i had layla restarted useing this
as she never recived her full puppy jabs, and its been over 2 years since she had her jabs
so it cost me 37 quid insted of the full price.
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Its not free either - you pay the cost of a booster,
all's they do is give you a discount.
found lurcher
in Lurchers & Running Dogs
Posted
Unfortunaly doing the 28 day thing - you never completly become the dogs legal owner,
the only way you can be come the legal owner is if the council takes possession of the dog
via the dog going in to the pound to do its 7 days, then you take it on afterwards.
From a dog warden