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Everything posted by SEAN3513

  1. SEAN3513


    the current general licences QUICK REFFERENCE ENGLAND NORTHEN IRELAND WALES SCOTLAND please familiarise yourself with them......they are different , depending on your location.
  2. please use this pinned topic for posting pics and info on your handy work. as requested by sweeney todd (bill) many thanks sean
  3. Charging your air rifle Pre-charged air rifles require a supply of clean compressed air. This can be obtained in 2 ways, from a stirrup pump or a divers scuba tank. Stirrup pumps Are like an oversized bicycle pump that require significant physical effort. They are not cheap and do not clean the air very effectively. One thing that will kill an air rifle faster than anything is dirt or moisture getting into it's air cylinder. On the plus side you will be self contained and do not have to go to a dive shop. Even the new Hills pump does not filter air to the same level as a dive shop and some moisture and dust will get into your rifle. A good pump costs about the same as a 3ltr bottle so there's no real benefit apart from the ongoing cost of air in a bottle. Scuba tanks Are available from air rifle suppliers and divers shops. They come in various sizes and 2 main pressures 232 and 300bar. Always go for 300bar as they contain about 3 times more air, but check that your local divers shop can fill to 300 as some only have compressors rated at 232bar. Size is up to you, expect about 15 fills (about 1200 shots) from a 3ltr 300bar or 40 fills (about 3200 shots) from a 7ltr 300bar bottle so go for the biggest that you can comfortably carry and store. Refilling is done at a divers shop, costs less than £5 and will be completely free of moisture and other contaminants. it's worth noting that to get a tank filled for diving you must have a divers certificate, so make sure that the shop knows it's for a rifle. They are perfectly within their rights to decline to fill it so don't give them a hard time if the lad that works there part time on a Saturday doesn't realise you can use them with air rifles, he's probably had it drummed into him that he needs to see the certificate. He may also be unaware that air rifle valves only have to be tested every 5 years. Air rifles must never be filled to more than the manufacturers stated pressure which is likely to be much lower than the pressure in the divers bottle. By exceeding the recommended pressure two things will happen. The first is that the power of the gun will drop significantly. It's a myth that the higher the pressure in the gun, the more power it produces. In fact you normally find that maximum power is produced about 10bar below the maximum recommended pressure on non regulated rifles and a 20bar overfill can reduce the power by 40%. The second is that you will damage the internal valves or the air receiver requiring a costly strip and rebuild with new components. If you are unsure of the correct pressure, contact the guns manufacturer or importer before filling it. There is no 'standard' pressure and even guns of a similar type may have differing maximum pressures so never try to guess what it should be. It's also important not to let the pressure drop too low. You'll notice that the power really starts to drop off when you get to about 80bar in the rifle, and that's the time to refill. Some rifles, notably AirArms have a habit of dumping all of the remaining air when they get to about 40 bar in one go. It sounds like something has gone terribly wrong, but cocking the rifle usually stops it all escaping. This won't hurt the rifle, but you'll get through an awful lot of air and wasted a lot of pellets that weren't coming out at full power. If you've not got a gauge on your rifle, refill it as soon as you notice that your point of impact is starting to drop or alternatively use a chronograph to measure the speed of each pellet starting from a full fill. Keep count and once you start to see the velocities drop significantly you'll know how many shots you get from a fill. Scuba tanks are required by law to be tested every 2 years if they are used for diving, but if marked 'for surface use only' and has an air rifle valve this becomes 5 years so if you buy a used bottle check how long it has left in test. Bottles used for rifles have a really easy life and will probably last a lifetime if looked after but a bottle used for diving will be lucky to last 5 years due to internal salt corrosion. A charged bottle contains an enormous amount of energy. They are quite robust, however, you should treat them with great care. You will also need a charging adaptor to go between the bottle and your gun if the bottle isn't fitted with an air rifle valve. These are about £50 and are all much the same although you need to get either a 232bar or 300bar type as the valve on the bottle is different to prevent a 232 bar bottle being filled to 300 at the shop. A microbore hose will give you a few more fills than a standard one, both these items are available from any gun shop that sells air rifles. Once you've got all the kit, make sure that you don't allow dust or dirt to contaminate the hose or connectors. Any grit that gets into the hose will be transferred to the rifle the next time you fill it, and before long you'll have a leaky rifle or worse. Dive shops sell plastic screw on dust caps for the bottle and hose for a few pounds and you can use an old 35mm film container to make a good dust cap for the filler end. Not charged an air rifle before? Charging a pcp rifle with air is not difficult, but you do need to exercise caution. It's very easy to overfill a rifle which could cause it to burst the air receiver, something you really don't want to happen as it'll go off like a bomb. Now I've scared you, hopefully you'll always be careful. Ideally get someone to show you how to do it at a club until you're confident, but if you need to do it yourself here's the process: 1. When you first get your bottle you'll need to attach the adaptor that came with the rifle to the end of the hose. It needs to be airtight, but generally they only need to be tightened a bit more than hand tight. Be careful though as they're fine threads often in brass and can't take much torque. Once it's on leave it there. 2. Ensure the adaptor is on the bottle and hand tight. There's an 'O' ring on the bottle end that only needs to be hand tight to seal. 3. Tighten the bleed valve. 4. Check what pressure your rifle is designed to take and don't exceed it (on non regulated rifles it's better to under fill by about 10 bar) 5. Attach the adaptor to the rifle making sure that both the adaptor and rifle valve are clean and dry. Make sure it's fully engaged and never use oil or grease on any part of the filler or adaptor. 6. You're now ready to start filling. For some reason the last person to tighten the valve always had 3 Weetabix for breakfast and the bottle valve takes tremendous effort to open. Make sure that the rifle is somewhere it can't fall over and use both hands to open the valve. As soon as it opens close it off again quickly but gently. This stops you from venting 300 bar into a rifle designed to hold 180. It should now be much easier to open the valve and control the flow of air once you've broken the initial tight seal. Open it just enough for the needle to start moving on the adaptor gauge. Never rely on the one in the rifle, they're not very accurate and are very slow to move lagging a bit behind the actual pressure. Aim to fill slowly, the process should take between 30 seconds and a minute. Don't be tempted to give it a quick blast at full pressure. You'll notice that the pressure rises quite quickly until it equalises with the air inside the rifle and then it slows down often with a slight click as the rifle valve opens to receive air. Keep it going nice and slow until you reach your pressure. 7. Close the bottle valve firmly. 8. Unscrew the vent valve and it will expel blast of air. This allows the pressure to escape from the hose so when you remove the adaptor it doesn't fly off at speed. 9. Uncouple the adaptor. Problems that are sometimes encountered 1. The air seems to be leaking from somewhere on the adaptor. Check the bleed valve is done up, it's an easy mistake and often if it's not good and tight it starts to leak at about 120 bar. If the hose isn't tight the same can happen at any of the joints. 2. Air is coming out of the barrel. You may have used up all of the air in the rifle and the valve isn't sealing. This is a specialty of Air Arms rifles if you run them down to below 40 bar (which is way too far, power starts to drop off at -90 bar), the internal valve releases and they dump all of their air. Easy to sort out though. Cock the rifle (make sure this is done somewhere that you can fire the rifle as soon as you've filled it) and follow the steps above. You may find you have to give it a quick burst of air to get 50 bar into the rifle to seal the valve though. Note: If you loaded the rifle and found that there was no air in it the pellet will come out at speed as you charge it, so make sure you're safe. Once filled dry fire it or de-cock it to make it safe. If you're using a pump you'll never get enough air into it quickly enough to seal the valve and you'll have to get a fill from a bottle. And finally, a safety warning IMPORTANT: It is essential that only compressed breathing air is used, or in the case of guns designed to use CO2 the appropriate CO2 canister. There have been cases of experimentation with other gasses, with sometimes catastrophic results. Anyone stupid enough to ignore this is risking the safety of everyone nearby and is committing a criminal offence.
  4. pellet weight chart may be helpful cheers sean
  5. SEAN3513


    how much for rabbit and stoat ?? cheers
  6. SEAN3513

    The .410 calibre

    The .410 calibre Also known as the “12mm” and the “36 gauge” (but actually 10.41mm or 48 gauge ?) Always a puzzling question as to why it’s a calibre and not a gauge or bore. Hopefully this may shed some light on the situation. The 36gauge was an "artificial" denomination of a .410 bore calibre Nobody to this date has come up with a very precise answer, even the president of CIP (the European ruling committee on arms and ammunition). All the official documents from European Proof houses before 1904 do not mention .410bore calibre. In Great Britain, in an 1855 and some previous documents, official gauges went from 1 (1.669") to 50gauge (.453"). In a later (1868) document, they increased the list to go from A gauge (2.000") to 50 gauge(.453”) In all documents, 36gauge reported a .506" diameter. And interestingly 48 gauge was .410”. The gauges where determined with the number of lead balls of that diameter which made a British pound. France, in 1810, tried to get away from the British system and they managed to keep two systems: one was similar to the British (except the French pound was different) and determined gauges fairly similar in diameter to the British system; the other, called the bore system, was similar, but used the kilogram (for example a 32 bore was very similar to a 12 gauge). In 1868, they killed the bore system and tried to rationalise the dimensions. They still based the determination of the gauge on the number of lead balls made with a French pound, but they decided to adjust the diameters to have 0.2mm steps between gauges. This is probably were the .410 was born (even though it was not called so; officially it was called a 12mm): In fact, the French proof house decided that all the guns smaller than 10.6mm (roughly .410") had to be tested for pressure in a different way than the bigger ones. So, .410 became the divider between serious guns and playthings. In Germany in the 1800's there is no mention of any gauge smaller than 32 (and, by the way, they used several different "German" pounds, depending where the gun was manufactured) Austria had a system similar to the English, from 4 to 50 gauge. There was a 36 gauge with diameter 12.4mm (but was, different from the French and English 32...) Italy was a mess: depending on who was the invader (Austria ,France or Spain) they changed the system accordingly. The presence of more than 30 weight systems in Italy confused the situation. Basically, in the 1800's there was no two guns alike in the entire European continent... luckily the European gunsmiths were pretty good in making custom made balls after measuring the gun barrel. Things started to change in the 1900's, probably because of the need for having standard arms and ammunitions when assembling armies of different countries. So…………. The first official reference to .410 bore calibre is in a 1904 document by the Royal British proof house; the same document has a 36gauge (with the "correct" .506 in diameter). CIP met for the first time in 1914 and managed to get an agreement on the nominal diameter of calibres from 12 to 28gauge (12, 14, 16, 20, 24 and 28). There was still some resistance on 4 and 8 gauge and other bigger calibres (up to 32 mm, which was an Italian 1 gauge), and French and British 8 gauge and 4 gauge stayed until the 40's, along with the official European 4 and 8 gauge. In the 20's and 30's 14 gauge disappeared and 32 re-appeared. All the other smaller calibres (with the exception of .410 bore) disappeared completely. Sometime in the 20's, someone at the CIP probably thought of making an aesthetically pleasant set up...since they had 4, 8, 12, 16, 20, 24, 28 and 32, why not call the next smaller (and only remaining) calibre 36 (step’s of 4). Later they reverted to using the correct name i.e .410, but the industry had already started using the two names. There are some 1920's catalouges from Fiocchi and Dynamit Nobel using both 36 and .410 for the same shell. In the 1961, CIP confirmed .410 as the only correct name, but in 1969 added 36 in parenthesis on the dimensional tables. Basically, they were acknowledging the situation. The confusion never died, because the French kept calling the 32 gauge 14mm, the .410bore 12mm and they added the .360, calling it 9mm (later to become a rim fire.) Italy and other European countries used 36 gauge for the shorter .410 (2 and 2 1/2" long) and .410 for the 3" long, also called 36 Magnum. There is no real technical explanation behind it and it is thought to be the result of trying to get an agreement between several countries and several hundreds arms and ammunition producers, all of them with their own history and reasons. The fact is that 36 gauge and .410 bore now refer to the same shell. Unless anyone knows different ????
  7. SEAN3513

    The Hunter Naturalist

    To gain full enjoyment from the sport, every hunter should be a naturalist at heart and do his/her best to gather a more than basic knowledge of the animals of the countryside, their habitats and characteristics. Those unacquainted with the principals of sportsmanship and of its economic value seem to think nothing is safe from man with dog or gun, and that he marches on and takes anything that rises or squats. Anti sport groups take great advantage in this respect, and when some misdemeanour is carried out by the uneducated hunter it floods the local and national newspapers with the news, hoping that those completely ignorant of country life will be influenced to oppose all forms of field sports. In actual fact the Hunter is a defender of wildlife, game birds and song birds are preserved, in many woods in spring and summer where game is preserved just listen to the dawn chorus !!! They become sanctuaries for our song birds and other small useful birds that nest there. If vermin was not controlled or these places become riddled with footpaths to allow a greater public access the dawn chorus would be silenced. Vermin, both fur and feathered, would soon seek and destroy eggs and young and continued human disturbance would soon bring and end to this delightful feature of the countryside. Where vermin is allowed to exist and breed at will, the song bird will become lesser in number and quietened by their presence , for their own safety they become silent and hide in the heavy cover of trees not wanting to disclose their whereabouts and the location of their nests. If vermin is allowed to thrive there will hunt and destroy the eggs and young, not only of game birds but all lesser forms of feathered species, where the vermin is destroyed and discouraged you will find the sound of fine bird song and the balance of nature is nicely kept to the benefit of all concerned. I pity the man that only hunts for hunting's sake and does not make any attempt to study nature, he may call himself a sportsman, but, instead hides under false pretences. What pleasure is there , except from gun /dog performance in just going out to "hunt". Having a good dog or being a good shot brings a good reputation, but, the true sportsman will tell you his interests lie deeper. He finds great pleasure from the scenery, the ever changing sky and he appreciates the way in which game shows its self, senses alert to the rabbit, woodcock or any other legitimate quarry suddenly coming into view. But , more , he takes pleasure from watching the blue tit swinging upside down in the nearby trees, the wren threading its way through the hedgerows and the fieldfare hopping around the fields. He notices , almost subconsciously , the woodpecker leaving the wood in dipping flight in search of a safe perch, the kestrel hovering , all these things and many more attract his attention and bring a sense of pleasure without which the sport of the day would be less colourful and less enjoyable. The Hunter – Naturalist should strive to learn and identify the calls of more common birds and the meaning behind them. The shrill note of the alarmed chaffinch, the scolding tone of the blackbird which may indicate the presence of unwanted vermin, the shriek of the pheasant that may indicate the presence of a fox. Only by first hand experience can these signs be studied and understood and the knowledge gained applied to controlling vermin as required. Another advantage of this is being able to "call" crows etc, which has to be done correctly otherwise their suspicions will be alerted. This means the correct inflections and the right timing between calls. By the very nature of the sport the Hunter-Naturalist will become conversant with every phase of wildlife and the more often he ventures out his powers of observation will be sharpened.
  8. SEAN3513

    Air Arms Tx200

    just picked this up in a deal and is surplus to requirements mint condition ( one very small mark on fore end of stock) .22 with hawke reflex 3-9x50 scope quality gun bag and pellets....beech stock...shoots perfectly also has the 1/2 x 1/2 unf silcencer adaptor pics by email £300 located in sudbury suffolk.....will post at cost
  9. SEAN3513

    Prestige Kub

    I hear spares are a problem ??? But at that price........worth a shot (pardon the pun)
  10. SEAN3513

    Decent Mod

    no not me..... just picked up an air arms tx200hc.....it has the 1/2" unf adaptor but no mod i have used the HW and LOGUN QGS in tne past any recomendations for the above ??? cheers Sean
  11. SEAN3513

    Pup Wont Drink.

    wouldn't worry to much but do try goats milk......try putting some turkey or lamb mince in with it as said, if not dehydrated its not a problem......it will drink if it needs to
  12. SEAN3513

    Right, Wellingtons...........

    le chemeau or Aigle.....i have both and are equally as good as each other i also have le chemeau leather boots (wellies).....expensive but should last a very long time with the right maintainence
  13. SEAN3513

    Gun shops in the lakes?

    The fishing hut in grange over sands fawcetts in lancaster ....will be your best bet for rapid spares.....or blackpool air rifles en route
  14. SEAN3513

    Mag boxes

    If you have running dogs.......you should have a mag box imo If you have one always make sure there is plenty of water available .....as it does dehydrate unless you have used one you will never see or understand the benefits. I know they sound like a miracle cure all.......but they really are
  15. http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?feature=share&v=CI8UPHMzZm8&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DCI8UPHMzZm8%26feature%3Dshare&gl=GB
  16. As above......needs the hammer building up as its a bit worn.....other than that its fine warnant action.......bore is mint comes complete with nearly a full box of shells £100 ono or swap for a .410 ?? Sgc holders only.......located in suffolk
  17. Get a sbs if you want one.....try it on the clays i use an sbs and o/u for game shooting......the sbs is much better as it is lighter and shorter horses for courses i guess.......what suits one dosn't always suit another Hope you get a shoot day sorted........you'll love it
  18. SEAN3513

    Oh dear...............

    The danger with clicking on the link is that it heightens their profile in search engines etc the more clicks the high profile it becomes ( the site....not the article)
  19. Six months......is the the time limit to bring a prosecution see here http://www.driving-law.co.uk/terms/time_limits.asp
  20. SEAN3513

    A bit simple are we?...

    Ffs ........ really ???......lol
  21. SEAN3513

    Logun MKII - Lovely shooter

    Used a mk 1 for years.......best pcp out there imo
  22. SEAN3513

    Remember this ??

    Ha ha ha.........its erm.........knockout ......lol
  23. SEAN3513

    snap caps

    As above i believe......to prevent damage when test firing