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Achilles-13

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Posts posted by Achilles-13

  1. Hi all

     

    I was wondering if anyone here could help me with the following: over the last couple of months people have been finding dead or dying roe deer, all have some bald spots in varying degrees of severity, all display severe weakness and all have (had) severe diarrhea. I’ve been looking at bovine viruses or parasites that could have been transmitted but that would not explain it fully. Has anyone here seen anything like that? It seems to be concentrated to a single province for now. 

     

    tia

     

    A

  2. Hi all

    Am looking for a thermal spotter to aid in doing more accurate   headcounts of game, mostly hare, roe and pheasant where we hunt. Does anyone have any experience with the xm30f or xq35 for the purpose of spotting rabbit, hare or roosted pheasant and if so at what distance? Roe should not be a problem because of their size…

     

    thank you for your time!

  3. Hi all

    as I passed my hunting license tests I’m on the lookout for a hunting-jacket within the “budget”brands as they call them here… all have good looking offerings but as I have no experience whatsoever I hope some of you might chime in with experiences etc. Mostly I’m looking for quiet-ish, stand up to a fair bit of rain if caught in a good shower,  breathable for some rough-shooting I might do, game pocket is a plus. Longevity is a mayor point… 

     Warmth is not a big issue as I always buy a bigger jacket and layer up underneath and carry a small waterproof or poncho in my pack. Thanks! 

    had my eyes on a deerhunter chasse or muflon light, pinewood prestwick, seeland avail or keypoint,…

    atb

     

    A.

  4. Hi all

     

    I was wondering if anyone has any tips on what to look for when buying a second hand o-u shotgun? My rfd has a couple of nice fabarms for sale that he claims are from a deceased older gentleman who hunted with them.

    I checked the following : clean barrels, no cracks in the wood ( a couple of,small dings/ scratches but nothing mayor), opening and closing feels solid, front end is quite stiff to take off (rfd said it is because it was likely seldomly taken off) , no pitting or rust inside or out, a slight dent in the top rib… He says it is a steel action, (any way to identify that? Since the models were all produced in both steel and alloy equivalents). Fits me perfectly and it is 20 gauge wich I would love to try out. It is a older model though but could not find any typical problems related to older model fabarms?

     

    the other is a mint condition 12 gauge b2 notte, very nice rifle but would prefer the 20 gauge. 
     

    rfd recommended the 12 gauge because it is slightly heavier and the weight would reduce some of the recoil (would 200 grams really make a difference??)

    I like the fabarms as they are slightly lighter and I hope they would give me less trouble (old elbow injury that keeps popping up now and again…)

     

    Thank you for your time

     

    kind regards

  5. On 23/12/2022 at 09:55, Deker said:

    I don't know the specific answer but it is a potential problem many of us will be facing in the future, as we end up lead free!

    Barrels/twists are built with current general ammo selections in mind, and as the lead free alternatives all seem to be lighter, who knows where we will end up!!

    For now, the only (european) company that I found making a special nontox barrel was steyr or anshutz… a six land and groove instead of 4 and slightly less pronounced to reduce pressure,…) sadly it is sligthly too expensive for me right now?

  6. On 26/12/2022 at 01:26, Wolfdog91 said:

    From what I'm seeing loong in Google a 1:11 twist can stabilize up to 200grain bullets in .308. 

    A good forum I'd recommend is accurateshooter 

    True, but when you go into it,  check the length of the 200 grain bullet and compare it to a 168 gr mono bullet… the 200 grain is slightly shorter and would be shot at lower speed, thus stabilising… ( I don’t have any practical experience but have been reading and watching everything I can for the last 4 weeks so as a keyboard warrior I’m not sure how that holds up in reality of course…)

  7. Thanks all for chiming in! I’m going to err on the safe side and go for the (sadly uglier) 1:10 twist rifle… if I had access to more types of bullets/ munition for reloading,… I’d easily take the 1:11 twist sauer ( still might later on because I’m a sucker for pretty things… ) but alas, as a small country with few hunters, shops just don’t stock their shelves the same way they do in larger countries where hunting is (very) prevalent… for example, my local firearms dealer stocks 1 (!!) shotgun shell type in 20gauge… 4 brands of 308 ammo in just about all the same weight and grain. 
    Do I need a 400 yard gun? Absolutely not, I don’t think I’d ever see a shot beyond 120 yards in a hunting scenario here…

    on the copper ammo and barrels thing : a well made copper round should not decrease barrel life by too much, they machine in these small rings to decrease surface area touching the barrrel and thus reducing pressure as well… as far as the advice I could find on monolithic bullets : use a lighter weight bullet, higher speed and terminal effects seem very good… ( I read some reviews on 135grain barnes bullets used in germany on boar and roe deer and working fine…) the videos on terminal ballistics in mono bullets by vortex were good to see as well.

     

    thank you all! 

    • Like 1
  8. Hi all

     

    as I’m looking at buying my first rifle I’m bumping up against the following : I really like the sauer 100 in 308 with a twist rate of 1:11. I’d prefer to use nontoxic bullets ( since lead might/will get banned anyway… and here where I am, all nontox in 308 are 167 grain and up. I did calculations on bullet stability using bullets of equal length and these came up as unstable…

     

    has anybody had any experience with this? Real life experience beats calculations any day… 

     

    kind regards

     

    A.

     

     

  9. Hi kimE, I was hoping there was a way where I would not have to guesstimate ?

     

    I guess I could put up a ruler and measure the distance between horizontal posts at 30 yard intervals at my most used magnifications, this should give me a quick idea of range given that I can guess the size of the animal correctly. ( or just use rangefinder if there is time). I do plan on, once I get my own spot with high seat or mirador, to set out some markers so I’ll always know the distance…
     

    same thing wih the vertical post for range compensation I guess… I wish they made a reticle like the zeiss 60 with a couple of mrad marks true at say 10x on the vertical post, would truly be a versatile scope… then again everyone would just buy one scope and be done I guess.

     

    Kind regards

     

    A

  10. Hi all

     

    was wondering if anyone has some recommended reading or experience ranging with a “classic” reticle? ( german ret 4 or modern equivalent,…)

    I understand mil and mrad scopes from my airgunning days, but for my future hunting rifle I was looking at  a more classic version as I believe most shots would almost always be under 100 yards and the hunting scopes (with the desired magnification range, …) here hardly ever come with a ranging reticle. ( I know ranging or bdc turrets can be had but at high cost).  Pbr is one thing but for the longer shots I’d like something that gives me slightly more confidence.)
     

    so if anyone has any tips/ trics, how you do longer distance shots with duplex or german style, I’d love to hear about it! 
     

    kind regards

     

    A.

  11. On 09/09/2022 at 15:37, KimE said:

    "Recoil relax and enjoy" (US col. Elmer Kieth)

     

    A 150gr bullet in 790m/s has the same recoil as a 155gr bullet in 785m/s. The .308w can be downloaded to similar recoil as the 6,5*55/6,5cred. The 15% difference in recoil between 6,5 and .308w are barely felt, more important are do your closest store have ammunition for both? Do you find a rifle you like in that caliber? Does the stock fit you? A traditional lever action in 3030 with an old style of stock has more felt recoil than a modern .308w.

    Thank you for the info! Rifle should not be a problem, hoping to get either a anshutz 1782 or a bergara wilderness ridge in 6.5 or 308…  (can’t seem to decide on synthetic modern vs classic wood ) 308 ammo will be easier to get over the counter as 6.5 is only just gaining some popularity for hunting in The area (france, belgium, germany.. I really like the Bergara ba13, saw you own one in .300 blackout, how do you like that one? As they are on the cheaper end I’d love to try one for small game / survival but all calibers seem a bit much for that… ( we can only use centerfire ammo so was thinking a lightly loaded 223… )

     

    kind regards 

     

    A

  12. 2 hours ago, KimE said:

    I have shot several mooses with both 6,5*55 156gr/10g cup and core and .308w 165gr/10.7g- 180gr/11,7g cup and core I havn`t noticed any difference in performance they worked just fine. Both cal. are popular for wildboar in Sweden normally a hunter who has both takes the rifle with the best low light scope. The normal weight of monometal bullets for the 6,5 are about 120gr and for biggame in Sweden 139gr are the minimum legal bullet weight so its used with jacketed lead bullets here.

    Thanks for the information! Is there a large difference between the recoil in the 150gr 308 compared to the 6.5x55 rounds you use? Do you hunt moose with dogs or more of a approach hunt ,…? I love how you have a minimum weight for big game but can hunt roe buck with buckshot… we are not the only ones with funny rules I guess ? 30-30 is not allowed on boar here either even though I saw a guy in france take down a big boar running full pelt with a single shot…  saw sauer still makes the 100 in 6.5x55 , will keep my options open! 
     

    kind regards

     

    A

  13. On 07/09/2022 at 09:57, Wolfdog91 said:

    Honestly man when it comes to hogs either of those two would be perfectly fine as long as your making good shots. On a running shot the .308 is just plain gonna beat better choice because you have more mass this more knock down power of you don't quite hit where you want. But honestly if you can make a good shot with any type of decent ammo either of them will plain lay out most hogs. Also their basically neck in neck on the energy charts so unless you start shooting past 300yd .... No real difference imo6.5-creedmoor-vs-308-trajectory.jpg.b3285e33763fb6c33f966adc57046bd1.jpg

    Personally I'd look at which one you can get ammo easier and in the best variety.  I see your profile says your from Belgium so I'm not sure what ammo availability is like for you guys but I'd guess .308 has much more. Are you considering reloading? That could also be a factor.

    But all in all either should be just fine for hogs don't think your hogs are much tougher then ours. .223 is actually one of th most popular hog cartridges in my area for guys doing control work. Me personally I prefer 7.62x39 out of my AR-15. Heck I've killed a lot in the 40-150 lbs range with a .22lr.

    Anyhow as I was saying . Either of those calibers with a decently expanding bullet right here will but then down dead as a hammer4720458_neck_shot(2).jpg.3722634eaa85834416118737f1776548.jpg

    Works for me at least lol full-34110-49333-fb_img_1588830863265.jpg.ac210e223fd7d719bd6315eb0469a6cd.jpgfull-34110-59789-img_20200824_064106.jpg.acd615328001874ade799735eb4f41f5.jpg

     

    Nice! Ammo wise we don’t have a lot of choice either way… we don’t much of a hunting culture, wedged in between Germany and France where hunting is still quite commonplace it’s painfull to see all the choice they have... i’m guessing if I look hard and drive a good 70 miles I’ll find a store that has quality ammo for either… (hornady eldx when using lead, something barnes tipped when using copper). Out here we have a minimum required power of 1617 fpe at 100 yards from the muzzle to hunt boar… some hunting properties don’t even allow 6.5 for being too weak. I guess everybody here is either a masochist ór a horrible shot… I understand minimum requirements for driven hunts… but for tree stand hunting or stalking? I’ve seen cows drop in the spot from a good shot with subsonic .22lr

    If at all possible I’d like a 7mm08 but have not found even one store that carries ammo for it. We’ll see once (if) I pass the test I guess…

    I’ve always been wondering, those boar, do they have the grissle armor on the chest , deformed shoulder blade and a less pronounced angle to the skull too?

     

     

  14. Hi all,

     

    I’m hoping to pass my hunting tests soon and since I have no hunters in the family or close friends I was wondering if anyone could chime  in on a caliber choice for my first rifle…

    right now I’m looking at 308 and 6.5 creedmoor ( never shot 308 or 6.5 so no idea on the recoil, only ever shot the smaller calibers like 223 and 7.62x39 and most in semi-auto so no reference points there…)

    game will mostly be smaller european wild boar max 2yo for population control (I don’t have my own permission yet so the owners want the big boar to themselves or it will cost you a lot of money…), hunted from a high seat, will not be doing driven hunts.

    I like the 6.5 for reduced recoil and have done all the paper research I could (swedes hunting everything that walks with 6.5x55, paul childerley hunting driven boar with 6.5 creed, a couple of germans reviewing 6.5 creedmoor ammo and said it worked well on boar, articles about reduced blood trails inn whitetail deer with 6.5,…)

     

    So… would the 6.5 with nontox rounds be “enough gun” for smaller wild boar with a well placed shot? (I’m a decent shot, shooting airguns all my life out to 8o yards.
    Or should I be looking at a 308 with slightly lighter bullets (150 grain or something) for less recoil and still ethical killing?

     

    thank you for your time!

     

    kind regards

     

    A.

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