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See saw trap


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#1 Holdaway

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 05:31 pm

Made a See Saw trap today.

Using designs posted by others on the forums. many thanks to all, especially John B.


1 inch mesh to shoot the buggers through

Attached File  Trap_pics_028__2_.jpg   45.27KB   53 downloads

Set and ready for action

Attached File  Trap_pics_029__2_.jpg   33.55KB   45 downloads

Plenty of light at the end of the tunnel

Attached File  Trap_pics_031__2_.jpg   26.54KB   43 downloads


H

#2 john b

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Posted 05 April 2008 - 06:55 pm

working your way through the catalogue aren't you mate :clapper: Well done

#3 Holdaway

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Posted 06 April 2008 - 08:36 am

:whistling: :yes: :yes: :yes: :signthankspin:

#4 RatSnatcher

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 08:14 pm

holdaway you will be doing flat pack furniture next :clapper:

#5 Holdaway

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Posted 08 April 2008 - 08:22 pm

holdaway you will be doing flat pack furniture next http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/pub...



Thre's an idea... :whistling:

#6 youngmiller

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Posted 25 April 2008 - 10:34 pm

could send me some side pictures or schematics holdaway?
paintsplater@hotmail.com


if you wouldnt mind that is
im interested in making one

#7 Holdaway

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 01:19 pm

Hi Youngmiller. Visit the site fourteen acre wood. John B's site (A couple of posts above this one in his signature). It will show you how to make one, thats when I stole his secret plans from.

One thing I learned that has not been mentioned (I think). When balancing the seesaw, put the lock wire on first and then balance it across a piece of dowel to determine where the balance rod should be stapled. Otherwise the seesaw will be back heavy (although I used galanised fence wire which is heavy), I adjusted mine recently and it works much better.

H

#8 john b

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Posted 06 May 2008 - 05:14 pm

I appreciate the plug Holdaway - I really do.

However YoungMiller there is probably enough on here already to get you sorted.

My original one http://www.thehuntin...x...ost&p=87052

And this excellent 'how to' one by SINASOX http://www.thehuntin...showtopic=10886

#9 john b

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 05:35 pm

This is a 'basic' one that a friend of mine has just made as another test of the plans. This is good quality marine ply and he's very good at this sort of thing - has a garage full of powertools.

(Edited to add that when I say 'basic' I am not intending any sort of slur on H's trap. It's just to distinguish this one from the 'Improved' design with all the sliding doors.)

Attached File  DSC_7094__Small_.jpg   67.6KB   38 downloads
Attached File  DSC_7100__Small_.jpg   41.62KB   35 downloads
Attached File  basic_see_saw_004__Small_.jpg   91.99KB   34 downloads

#10 verminator

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 06:46 pm

Looks a cracking job. Wish I had the proper tools to make a better job of things myself, I must be the worlds worst joiner...

Edited by verminator, 12 May 2008 - 09:17 pm.


#11 RatSnatcher

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Posted 12 May 2008 - 07:01 pm

I have found that using an old bit of laminate flooring for the actual seesaw gives a much better sensativity regarding the seesaw.......

#12 seanygonzo

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 03:47 pm

i've knocked one of these up myself now - all to speck as far as i can see, as above mentioned sensitivity of the seesaw is my only concern -
- mine ' swings ' and locks with a little push - (make your own jokes!) but how sensitive does it need to be? (dont want it so that it's catching mice, but do want some of the bigger boys - rats and squirels!

sorry, difficult question to answer i imagine.

cheers anyway!

(ps, big thank you to johnb for earleir posts regarding seesaws - am going to make a xmas present to myself of your book me thinks!!)

sean.

#13 fish

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 06:08 pm

[quote name='seanygonzo' date='30 November 2009 - 03:47 PM' timestamp='1259596036' post='1341452']
i've knocked one of these up myself now - all to speck as far as i can see, as above mentioned sensitivity of the seesaw is my only concern -
- mine ' swings ' and locks with a little push - (make your own jokes!) but how sensitive does it need to be? (dont want it so that it's catching mice, but do want some of the bigger boys - rats and squirels!

sorry, difficult question to answer i imagine.

cheers anyway!

(ps, big thank you to johnb for earleir posts regarding seesaws - am going to make a xmas present to myself of your book me thinks!!)

sean.tack a bit of lead under the seesaw to get the swing right ;)

#14 john b

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Posted 30 November 2009 - 06:28 pm

Fish is right - you can fine tune the whole arrangement by adding small weights to the see-saw.

The problem with the see-saw is that it acts as a lever, so the further past the pivot the quarry gets, the more downwards push it with generate.

So when the little mouse gets right to the very end he could be generating a relatively large amount of downward force. If you set the see-saw with too much counterweight them mousey may not tip the see-saw fully but stands a chance of getting the back end off the ground and buggering up the locking 'U'.

More importantly even a rat will generate a relatively small down push as it first goes past the pivot. What you want to avoid at all cost is a counterweight so heavy that it's even a twentieth of the weight of the quarry because then the see-saw moves too slowly.

My personal preference is to have the see-saw balance so that the back end is just heavier enough to keep it firmly down in the set position. In fact the see-saw is pivoted dead centre and it's only the weight of the locking 'U' that keeps the down ramp, down. Once the quarry is a fraction more than half way past the pivot it tips and there's no messing about.

You sometimes get things you didn't intend, but that's the beauty of a live catch trap. Posted Image

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#15 seanygonzo

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Posted 01 December 2009 - 01:38 pm

ok, cheers guys!

guess its gonna be down to a bit of trial and error and wait and see!!

sean.




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