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Griff, have had a good look over some of your other work, you certainly have a talented skill set.

I could see changes as you adopted materials for sheaths, I wonder how you produce those serrations in the back bone of the hand grips, and it seems that you pretty much have a no major frills workshop.

Do you do the design and carving of the bone grips ?

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This design has a special reminiscence for me as it was the design of the first knife i was involved in making some 35 years ago. An old boy, an engineer to trade took an interest in me as a lad and f

Yes convex grind. Very technical machine required.......a wheelbarrow wheel on a lathe with a sander belt on it.

He can't hang a plug socket on the wall looking at that picture but other than that he seems to be gifted at everything else ???

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21 hours ago, 17hornet said:

Griff, have had a good look over some of your other work, you certainly have a talented skill set.

I could see changes as you adopted materials for sheaths, I wonder how you produce those serrations in the back bone of the hand grips, and it seems that you pretty much have a no major frills workshop.

Do you do the design and carving of the bone grips ?

 

The design in the back of the knife is done by filing the corner of the spine with a round and triangular file alternatively. It works well casting a handle direct on to a tang made this way as the resin/material squeeze in and fill in the the gaps.

Yes i carve the antler handles. (with the exception of the eagle)

As for the workshop.....been building it up slowly for the last 25years.....so yes a lot in there but a lot of it restored 2nd hand stuff or home-made. I have the bad habit of collecting other peoples "junk"....as i see the "potential" in the parts..... it may come in handy for building something one day. As a result there are plenty of materials to hand....but not a lot of room to work!:laugh:

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45 minutes ago, GruffaloGriff said:

 

The design in the back of the knife is done by filing the corner of the spine with a round and triangular file alternatively. It works well casting a handle direct on to a tang made this way as the resin/material squeeze in and fill in the the gaps.

 

39135069091_efc3c19c2b_b.jpgP1040017_zpsyvvzdyht by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

39135069141_1c2b998df7_b.jpgP1040010_zpsixxjai4a by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

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Thank you for that, I am inspired by your work. I have been collecting hardened industrial steels for about a year now for the sole purpose of knife making. A forge is about to be built, but I am lacking an anvil. Ideally I will have a plasma cutter in a few months. Grinders etc are in my tools kit, buff's and belts are to come. For working with wood and softer materials I will try to access a mates workshop only a few hundred meters down the road, I also admire his work.

You have an artistic eye for shape and form, you pull things together well, and your simple photography showing of your work is just seriously special.

Some of the scales and handles start out so basic but look soo.. good when finished. The filing of the spine must be time consuming but the effect is special.

I have put the word out to obtain some antler from associates so that I may attempt some conversions, I have to start somewhere and it will be a gentle start for me.

How do you put your makers mark onto the steel, is it stamped into the hot steel, I have seen the two styles you have done. It looks like on is embossed and the other impressed ?

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If you want to make knives it is worth joining edgematters there are a lot of experienced makers with a lifetimes experience willing to help/advise.

The etch is very simple. i use a 12 battery charger but can be done with a 12v battery or even a couple of small disposable 9v batteries connected in series. The live clip goes on the blade and the negative goes on a cotton bud dipped in salt water. Gently rub the area to be etched for a minute or so depending on depth of etch required.

VID

You can get vinyl stencils made with your mark if you want it to look pro. The Hudson bay i just brushed on nail varnish and scratched the logo through. The chefs knife i used a disposable vinyl stencil. My brother-in-law works in a sign shop and made them up for me.

I also just discovered another simple way at the weekend. Use a laser printer to print your logo on a page of a glossy magazine. If you pick a light color page..sky etc it is easier to see. Place face down on blade, firmly hold in place (tape along one side if it helps but keep tape clear of logo) gently rub with a rag soaked in acetone (not too much acetone) just until you see the image through the paper. Next gently rub the paper with a cloth soaked in water this dissolves the paper and leaves the laser toner image on the blade. it then can be etched as above. VID (no sound but as above) A bit of experiment needed to get the logo transferred clearly off the page but you soon get the hang of it. If doesn't come off clean, just wipe it away with acetone and do it again. It is a great method for making one off etches of personalized names designs specific size etc. I used this method on pic below. The image is a lot clearer than it looks in the pic.

39054338640_66faaaabb1_b.jpgP1080259 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

 

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Thank you Terry.

I am dealing with family today, have bookmarked the Forum to join later.

Etching, you make it sound so simple, I didnt know the acetone trick with magazine paper - pretty good to practice that one and cheap too. When we go camping or touring the wife always leaves her kitchen knives behind or mixed with friends gear, so you can guess what is about to happen...  :yes: . I will explain it as 'practice' makes perfect.

I did know about using heat to transfer laser toner to a surface, using an iron usually, so acetone for metals is a huge thing to me, having worked with glass I am aware of etching with acids and sandblasting, but this method you have shown me is so simple. Of course all these methods can be used, its just what you want to create.

Side note, in 24hrs I already have antler being offered to me, so I will start to stock up on that, it isnt always so accessible here in OZ.

When you cast/make the scales directly onto knife handle/spines, do you just use pressure by clamps or do you also use vacuum to get the resin to fully imbed into the fibres of cloth ?

Always a question hey ? I hope it isnt being a pest, but other forum members may benefit also.

 

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On 17/03/2018 at 12:15, socks said:

Fukc me is there anything you can't make ???

He can't hang a plug socket on the wall looking at that picture but other than that he seems to be gifted at everything else ???

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21 hours ago, 17hornet said:

Thank you Terry.

 

When you cast/make the scales directly onto knife handle/spines, do you just use pressure by clamps or do you also use vacuum to get the resin to fully imbed into the fibres of cloth ?

 

Either clamp with blocks of wood (with a cutting of polythene between resin and ply) for flat layered micarta as below.

Or as the pointy Kiridashi above it is two 1/2 inch strips of denim one red one black layed on top of each other then dipped in resin and wound tight around the tang. Finish off wrapping tight in cling wrap. No clamping required.

39004252041_bd42fd58b3_c.jpgP1060476_zpslro7dxhv by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

25134448348_3dab9875fa_c.jpgP1060481_zpslrpzsza5 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

39004251371_91e41c1de2_c.jpgP1060482_zpssjtdsomm by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

25134448328_4cb16fd93d_c.jpgP1060485_zpsi0volifj by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

39004250921_03e7c8c765_c.jpgP1060503_zpsuk1g0rtp by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

39004250661_b20d8cc0d9_c.jpgP1060501_zps6vqkwqii by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

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4 minutes ago, socks said:

Griff have you thought of making an Alaskan ulu knife like the one you see Agnes hailstone using on life below zero .......

Often thought of it.....but never got round to making one. An old circular saw blade would be the right shape.;)

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A few pics of simple etching mentioned above.

Print logo on glossy magazine page. Has to be laser printer.

39114450000_7d0ee8901e_c.jpgP1080276 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

Place face down on blade, tape along one edge clear of logo.

40882198032_541a4a8570_c.jpgP1080277 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

Gently rub with acetone cloth until logo is barley visible through paper.

39114657270_4d925977d3_c.jpgP1080278 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

Gently rub paper away with a cloth soaked in warm water.

40030515875_34f7edb9d5_c.jpgP1080280 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

40030475065_07d270b7a7_c.jpgP1080281 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

12 volt supply. Live on blade and negative on cotton bud soaked in salt water. Gently rub area to be etched.

39114539480_5a798fdd24_c.jpgP1080285 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

40882272912_0d9a644382_c.jpgP1080287 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

Clean up with fine wet & dry sandpaper.

39114501080_0c1e90e3b4_c.jpgP1080288 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

40030367175_b55d2129c8_c.jpgP1080291 by Terry Griffiths, on Flickr

 

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