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conibear pans


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Just curious if you fellas heard about these . their becoming mighty popular here on everything from 110's to 330's. Seems like with some spray paint and some blocking these would be murder on those pesky rabbits i see you fellas always after.

Their mainly used in cubbies but i think yall would love them for putting in front of warren ( i think thats the correct term for rabbit dens in the uk ) holes. Would certainly be less work then having to bury and blend in those fenns. Seen guys use them on rats and squirrels with great sucess as well.

Anyhow ,just wanted to share and see what you fellas thought

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They are no good  set in the open or in holes to me they work best in fences or in runs in growing cereal crops there is no doubt that they are an effective and humane trap but England  is too small a place to use them , over here we use the 116 for rabbits that is  a 110 with a bigger spring and over time i have caught non target spieces including full grown Foxes .

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Used the pans for years Wolfdog,...originally we used flattened out bean tins to create our trigger plates,..they worked well...:yes:

Bodygrip traps are immensely versatile, but as Micky has said, ...we just don't have enough, wilderness areas to use them to their fullest potential...

I have been fortunate in as much as,..in the early days before our trapping laws became so Draconian (and I predict they will get even more so)....I was staying amidst a remote district, no people, no dogs or nosy folk with prying eyes, and foolish fingers,..and I set my traps accordingly...

In such a situation, these traps are deadly...:thumbs:

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On ‎11‎/‎8‎/‎2017 at 16:28, EDDIE B said:

Very simple idea I got off a guy Im subscribed too on youtube. I use thicker stuff simply because that's what I hado lying around in the shed. Check it out 

https://youtu.be/1KowN6gbQ20

Thanks for the Info and thanks for taking the time to reply, Some nice simple tips on the vid Cheers

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I have never felt the need to alter this type of trap as i find that they work for me with no form of adjustment, i think it is a type of vanity to adjust something that has been designed and tested by experts , i know its horses for courses but if it touches those prongs its dead , keep it simple ,the thinking has been done for you, and as with all traps placement is the key 

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I used them to catch squirrels at work by putting a biscuit in the back of the cubby and although they where greedy you could see them always trying to get the biscuit out with there paws  and go round and round the cubby seeing trap shy even cutting the trigger legs and running a wire across didnt help much  i think that method might work better as the guy says they have a 3x4 inch space to enter

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16 hours ago, micky said:

I have never felt the need to alter this type of trap as i find that they work for me with no form of adjustment, i think it is a type of vanity to adjust something that has been designed and tested by experts , i know its horses for courses but if it touches those prongs its dead , keep it simple ,the thinking has been done for you, and as with all traps placement is the key 

Let me ask you this micky. Do you prefer using traps which have triggers or pans? 

 

I don't believe novelty plays a part to be honest. Trap avoidance can be a real problem with wire triggers. Especially those bell trIngers when it comes to things like mink or rabbits. Why even in Darcy's video i think it shows a rabbit avoiding going through one of those triggers. Yea right rats and squirrel will push through them the majority of times, but not all animals are as easy catch as a squirrel. 

For me, I want my traps to work to their full potential, and if adding a pan to a bodygrip results in more catches, then I think it's something to consider.

 

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