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Concrete Sub-Base - Question For The Builders


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The base will have to slope to a drain.

If you want a 4 inch ( 100m) minimum thickness then it will need to be 6 inch (140mm) thick at the high end in a 4m long run.

Or 5 inch (130mm) on the 3m wide side.

You can slope the base underneath the 4 inch slab but that would not be the usual way I believe.

No that's not the way, if you want a fall on the finished slab then you put the fall on the sub base.

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We normally use at 10 bags of cement per ton not 5 I think it will be two weak

4x2 is 100 MM deep mate there for you'll need 1.2 cubic metres

Think it needs to be at least 4 inches or 100mm deep.

Lads I am ready to go. Channel drains are in and I have a natural slope to the drain due to the lie of the land. Just to shutter with 1 degree of slope towards the drains and I am ready to mix concrete. I'll go with what I have got 11 bags of cement and 2 ton of sand gravel ontop of my already laid 2ton of blinding. If I fall short that is a good thing. It means I can do the last foot to the drains to make an absolutely first class job of how the water flows away.

 

I'll get photos up in the next fortnight of the finished. Great to get the advice.

good luck with it mate

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The base will have to slope to a drain.

If you want a 4 inch ( 100m) minimum thickness then it will need to be 6 inch (140mm) thick at the high end in a 4m long run.

Or 5 inch (130mm) on the 3m wide side.

You can slope the base underneath the 4 inch slab but that would not be the usual way I believe.

No that's not the way, if you want a fall on the finished slab then you put the fall on the sub base.

 

Ok if that is the way to do it, as long as the slope is there. 1% is good either way.

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It won't matter if old gravel is level and settled on an existing yard just rip down a 3x2 from corner to corner and stick it on top of 4x2 shutter that will give you a 3 inch fall and you would just need an extra couple of barrows of concrete depending on size of run. In a 14 foot long run a 3 inch fall = 1 degree slope which is ideal. Do not run dog pen drains into household septic tank or dog hairs will clog up holes in percolation pipes and destroy them unless you put a filter over gully lid. I used 4 inch expanding metal that brickies use and just cut a small piece or 2 to fit under gully lid and it allows water through but catches hair and I just bang out fur balls once a week. Scoop up shit with a metal dustpan or ash shovel and put in dung heap and then wash floors into gully trap with no hair getting through so it's just dirty water getting into septic tank with no solids.

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Lads I am ready to go. Channel drains are in and I have a natural slope to the drain due to the lie of the land. Just to shutter with 1 degree of slope towards the drains and I am ready to mix concrete. I'll go with what I have got 11 bags of cement and 2 ton of sand gravel ontop of my already laid 2ton of blinding. If I fall short that is a good thing. It means I can do the last foot to the drains to make an absolutely first class job of how the water flows away.

 

I'll get photos up in the next fortnight of the finished. Great to get the advice.

I would line your whole shutter with a sheet of polythene if your mixing and pouring it your self mate , it'll stop the water in the concrete soaking down through the base making the concrete much easier to work with , will also help to get a tidy finish.

Regarding cement make sure you mix it plenty strong enough , dog piss, constant pressure washing and frost will find any weakness and it will start to crumble , unless your planning to tile it ?

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We normally use at 10 bags of cement per ton not 5 I think it will be two weak

yeah I normally use 8bags to a ton for general use.for kennels that are going to be pissed on and washed down and scrubbed regularly 10 would probably be better.Id go for a good 4 and 1 mix
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I've smooth floated mine off . Then I use a squiggy to swill out with . Only takes a few mins to start drying . In the near future I'm putting resin on top . The water sits on top of it and doesn't sink in . Stops the smell of piss .

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My mate uses the one that's used in the factories . I've been waiting for some . Been ages now so going to buy some and get it done . I'll find out which one it is . He's used it in his kennels and it's doing the job .

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Lads I am ready to go. Channel drains are in and I have a natural slope to the drain due to the lie of the land. Just to shutter with 1 degree of slope towards the drains and I am ready to mix concrete. I'll go with what I have got 11 bags of cement and 2 ton of sand gravel ontop of my already laid 2ton of blinding. If I fall short that is a good thing. It means I can do the last foot to the drains to make an absolutely first class job of how the water flows away.

 

I'll get photos up in the next fortnight of the finished. Great to get the advice.

remember to make the concrete 5-10mm higher than the Chanel drain,wf
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My mate uses the one that's used in the factories . I've been waiting for some . Been ages now so going to buy some and get it done . I'll find out which one it is . He's used it in his kennels and it's doing the job .

Let us know what the stuff is HPR. Im wanting to do similar for my pens this Summer.
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My mate uses the one that's used in the factories . I've been waiting for some . Been ages now so going to buy some and get it done . I'll find out which one it is . He's used it in his kennels and it's doing the job .

Let us know what the stuff is HPR. Im wanting to do similar for my pens this Summer.

 

 

Sam here, any idea what its called HPR

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