The Yellow Bunting.

[Meroman 105]

An article written by Sean Fitzpatrick.

 

 

JANUARY/FEBRUARY.

As far as bunting management is concerned, these months are pretty straightforward.
A basic diet of plain-canary seed, supplemented with millet-sprays, is sufficient to keep the birds happy during this relatively dormant period. While it isn’t always available, I also feed screenings. Alternatively, wild seed is available from a number of seed-merchants. I am also trying to get them feeding on “complete diet” pellets from Verse-laga, with some success.
Fresh drinking water is always available, but also, buntings are especially fond of bathing so the birds always appreciate provision of a bath. Even on the coldest days, buntings will saturate themselves within minutes of a bath being provided.
Throughout the year I choose to add a supplement to the drinking water in the form of AVIFORM ULTIMATE. This is the pigeon equivalent of AVIGOLD and is billed as “seven products in one” containing vitamins, sanitisers etc’.

Regarding the housing of my Buntings, for the last seven years I have kept them in flight cages measuring between one and two meters long, 600mm high and 400mm deep. I chose this option with a view to “cage breeding” them.
Prospective pairs are kept together throughout the year. If any aggression is observed the birds are separated by a wire division. However, it should be noted that some degree of aggressive bickering is normal in this species.

 

MARCH/APRIL.

At the beginning of March I begin offering soft-food with a few mini-mealworms added. This can entice buntings to take the soft-food if they are initially reluctant. I have witnessed my Yellow-Buntings feeding pieces of egg-biscuit to nestlings straight from the beak! The soft-food is mixed with grated boiled egg to boost the bird’s protein intake, essential if buntings are to attain breeding condition.
Towards the end of March, nest sites are positioned in the cages. This allows the birds’ time to get accustomed to their environment before breeding.
Nest sites are offered in various forms. The first is a canary wicker-basket, fixed in the back corners of the cage at a height of approx’ 6 inches. Around these I place artificial ivy or something similar. This affords nesting birds some seclusion. Another option is a 6inch earthenware plant-pot. Fill the bottom 2 inches of the pot with dry grass/hay. These can be placed in the front or back corners and hidden behind a board to hide them from full view. The other type I use is a tube of, 1” X 1” wire mesh, 12” high and of a diameter that will accommodate a wicker nest-pan in the bottom. To allow access by the birds, cut an opening in the wire just above the rim of the basket, and about a third of the circumference, about 2” high. Around the wire tube, I wrap more of the artificial ivy or a similar alternative. Of the three, the birds don’t appear to have a particular preference with all three having been utilised successfully.
With the onset of April I increase the availability of live-food in the form of mealworms, buffalo-worms, wax-moth grubs and small brown crickets. With this protein stimulus and lengthening daylight hours, the birds will be coming into breeding condition. Cocks will start warbling

By the end of April, both cock and hen buntings will be moving around their cage/aviary with their crests raised and wings dropped. Start placing strands of grass and coconut fibre in the cage bars and hens will start carrying pieces around in their beak while cock birds will reach full song.
At this time it pays to observe the birds to establish what each bird’s personality is like. They are all individuals and while some will become very aggressive, others will be quite placid and friendly to their prospective mate. Aggressive birds should be separated by a wire partition and only allowed contact in your presence. If they are fit, mating will take place when the partition is withdrawn. Allow them time together and after several couplings have taken place, the birds may start to exhibit aggressive behaviour. At this point, replace the partition to prevent injury to either bird. In other cases, the birds will be more compatible and can be left together. My breeding pairs were left together this year without incident. However, for anyone trying buntings for the first time, I would recommend separating the birds. In time, experience will tell what method is most appropriate in each instance.

MAY – AUGUST.

In my experience, Buntings will start nesting at the start of May, occasionally; they will nest a little earlier.
The nest is constructed of grass, coconut fibre and fine roots and takes on the appearance of a small haystack. It’s surprising how much material is used in the construction.
When the hen is laying, mating will take place more often and more intensely. It is during these months that buntings become more aggressive so pay particular attention.
Yellow Buntings lay clutches of between 2 & 5 eggs with 3 being the most usual number.
Once the hen starts to incubate her eggs, partition the cock bird off and withdraw live-food from both birds. Live-food can be re-introduced to the hen after 10 days of the twelve-day incubation.
The best live-food for newly hatched bunting chicks, are Buffalo Worms. These worms are small and are easily swallowed by the youngsters. In the absence of Buffalo Worms, Mini-Mealworms are next best. Fruit flies are a useful addition but it would be difficult to maintain the high volume needed to keep the chicks going if they were fed exclusively on flies.
After the initial two days of the chicks’ lives, all variety of live-food can be offered. The hen will welcome all wax-moth grubs, squats and small brown crickets.
If all goes well, at six days old the youngsters will be ready for ringing with ‘D’ rings.
When ringing the chicks, I take one chick at a time from the nest and find a comfortable position with good light. I place the ring over the front three toes up to the knuckle of the foot then apply a drop of olive oil to lubricate the ring going over the knuckle. This is best done by holding the front three toes between the finger and thumb; with the other hand work the ring backwards over the foot in a slight twisting motion.
Yellow-buntings fledge as early as twelve days of age and will scurry away into the nearest secluded corner where they remain until their wings develop.
The youngsters will be approx’ 25 days old before they are feeding themselves, by which time the hen will be ready to nest again. The youngsters can be removed and the cock bird re-introduced.

Once the young are weaned, I introduce them to soaked plain canary seed and soaked millet sprays along with egg-food mixed with grated egg. Live-food is available until the young have completed their moult at about twelve weeks of age. Bathing water is available but only in shallow dishes to prevent the chicks from getting too wet.
For exhibition purposes I prefer to colour feed my buntings so I begin colour feeding at about six weeks. The colour is given in the drinking water and I mix it to about half the strength of that fed to canaries.
Also for exhibition purposes, any promising youngsters should be show cage trained from about four weeks old. Buntings can be difficult to steady down if show cage training is delayed.

Buntings are hardy birds and can live for many years if catered for correctly. Pay special attention to youngsters before disposing of any as they will continue to improve and grow for three or four years before reaching their full potential.

 

 

September-December.

Once the breeding season comes to a close, the adults will commence their own moult, which is usually completed by mid-October. Colour feeding is done in the same way as the youngsters. Bathing facilities are always available but it is particularly useful for any birds destined for the show bench.
The basic diet of plain canary, various millets and thrashings will maintain the birds in good general condition.

[RAMBLERS 26]

Good read that meroman cheers .

[j j m 6,478]

Very good read