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ian28

Zeroing The Yukon Photon Xt 6.5 X 42

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i have just purchased one of these for my .22lr and i am very pleased with it apart from having trouble zeroing it in, for some reason when i first tried zeroing it i fired at a target at 100yrds and it was missing the target completely so moved target to 70yrds and hit it so zeroed it in at 70yrds, so tried it again at 100yrds and hit it but when i went to move the cross down it woundnt make it down fully to where the bullet hit cause it was to its full max of 30 down, as anyone else had problems zeroing this scope in????

 

I wish someone near me had one of these cause I would bring it to you to zero it for me haha make it a lot easier :D hint hint :yes:

​​

hope someone can help me....

 

cheers

atb ian

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common problem with them mine was the same need to build the back mount up slightly . best way is with adjustable mounts or i have heard people using a bit of tin from a tin of pop of some camera film . something thin basically .. adjustable mounts are the best option .. i bought some cheap one piece adjustable mounts off e bay works a treat now ... good luck

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You've just joined a long list of people who have had this problem. Yukon might eventually tinker with newer versions of the scope, it seems to obviously be lacking a thorough field test. I cut a piece of beer can and slotted it under the rear mount. A bit Heath-Robinson, but it does work and cost me nothing.

I've used my Yukon a lot now and would recommend zeroing it at 50 yards. That's a reasonable range for night shooting, it's a compromise range; you should be able to get to within 50 yards of even a wary rabbit at night, if conditions are right, and it's a good range for the capabilities of the .22LR.

I've put a small white dot on the focus ring and one on the body of the scope that align when the scope is focussed at 50 yards. This allows me to quickly re-set the focus to my zero range. I tend to leave the scope focussed at that range as the ring is a pest to turn with frozen fingers. A coaster helps a lot.

After trial and error I've popped out the large centre blank in the scope cover for daylight use (the Yukon is not a great day scope) - seems to work better than just relying on the tiny aperture.

Good luck

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common problem with them mine was the same need to build the back mount up slightly . best way is with adjustable mounts or i have heard people using a bit of tin from a tin of pop of some camera film . something thin basically .. adjustable mounts are the best option .. i bought some cheap one piece adjustable mounts off e bay works a treat now ... good luck

please Merlin could you send me some pictures ? i have the same problem and i would like to understand how i can arrange it

thanks a lot

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From my own recent experience & investigations into the same issue, the consistent advice I'm getting is to use a Picatinny rail and the one piece mount made by Photon. I've decided to convert my M595 over to a Picatinny rail & dedicated Photon mount. Both are getting delivered today, and I'll post a pic when I can.

 

Photons have 30 plus clicks and each click value is 17mm at 100yds, which equates to just over 0.5M adjustment available @ 100 Yds, therefore I'd think this points to the mounts being well out?

 

Other option is using a + MOA rail, but I don't think it's ideal.

 

See other post on issues I've had with using a QR system.

Edited by Lamp_Shy

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From my own recent experience & investigations into the same issue, the consistent advice I'm getting is to use a Picatinny rail and the one piece mount made by Photon. I've decided to convert my M595 over to a Picatinny rail & dedicated Photon mount. Both are getting delivered today, and I'll post a pic when I can.

 

Photons have 30 plus clicks and each click value is 17mm at 100yds, which equates to just over 0.5M adjustment available @ 100 Yds, therefore I'd think this points to the mounts being well out?

 

Other option is using a + MOA rail, but I don't think it's ideal.

 

See other post on issues I've had with using a QR system.

thank you Lamp , but i have another problem : i have 11mm rail becuase i will use my photon on CZ455 and i don't want to buy another ring + rail becuase too expensive , but please post you pictures i like to see other solution

thanks

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From my own recent experience & investigations into the same issue, the consistent advice I'm getting is to use a Picatinny rail and the one piece mount made by Photon. I've decided to convert my M595 over to a Picatinny rail & dedicated Photon mount. Both are getting delivered today, and I'll post a pic when I can.

 

Photons have 30 plus clicks and each click value is 17mm at 100yds, which equates to just over 0.5M adjustment available @ 100 Yds, therefore I'd think this points to the mounts being well out?

 

Other option is using a + MOA rail, but I don't think it's ideal.

 

See other post on issues I've had with using a QR system.

thank you Lamp , but i have another problem : i have 11mm rail becuase i will use my photon on CZ455 and i don't want to buy another ring + rail becuase too expensive , but please post you pictures i like to see other solution

thanks

Have a look at other thread. Pics on there. IMO cheaper rails and mounts = alignment problems mate.

 

 

http://www.thehuntinglife.com/forums/topic/360492-photon-with-qr-mounts/?do=findComment&comment=4295729

Edited by Lamp_Shy

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Thought I'd add some more tuppenceworth to this much discussed topic:

 

My Photon is now pretty much 100% using a 0 MOA Picatinny rail and a dedicated Photon mount from Yukon.

 

I have a couple of observations however:

 

The Photon naturally sits quite high, and whilst this wouldn't normally be a problem, the adjustment range is quite limited @ 30 clicks on both X & Y axis, hence some folk run into problems when zeroing. There simply isn't enough adjustment to lower the scope if it's mounted too high.

 

Even using the dedicated mount, my vertical axis is way out at 24 clicks, which means it's almost at max adjustment. Not good IMO.

 

Secondly, you can adjust by loosening the four cap screws, but this would invalidate the warranty. It most certainly will work though.

 

Lastly, if you do have to adjust way out to around 30 clicks, the cross hairs don't self-centre again, and it's hellish to look at being so far offset

 

I personally don't like the idea of adjustable mounts on a CF as it's more to loosen off.

 

Otherwise I'm delighted with the Photon, which, coupled with an NM 800 IR IC is way more than I'll ever shoot at.

 

Key message is don't use a rail converter, it adds too much height for the Photon to cope with. And get the lowest mounts possible and it'll be fine.

 

ATB

Edited by Lamp_Shy

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yesterday i try again to zeroing my photon with my cz455 ..... terrible

when i move the reticle down i shoot high , when o move up i shoot down , seems is inverted .

i don't understand where is the problem

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yesterday i try again to zeroing my photon with my cz455 ..... terrible

when i move the reticle down i shoot high , when o move up i shoot down , seems is inverted .

i don't understand where is the problem

 

 

Remember when you adjust the Photon, it works the opposite to a normal scope. You move the cross hairs to the POI (Point of Impact) on the target.

 

In other words, aim at the centre of the target, don't move the rifle, then check where the shot is on the target, then move the Photon cross hairs to the POI - then remember to save the settings.

 

Its all in the manual.

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