Moa Or Mrad?

[toxo 160]

The title alone is enough to put many to sleep. I must admit to struggling a bit with the technicalities, probably because I haven't needed to learn them. If the ret has subtentions all you need do is learn the distances that correspond right?

I think I'm about to buy a Vortex scope and you have to stipulate which ret you want, either MOA or MRAD.

Is there a preference for rimfire distances? If so, why? Plain english please.

[riohog 5,621]

There are 2π × 1000 milliradians (≈ 6283.185 mrad) in a circle. So a trigonometric milliradian is just under ¹⁄₆₂₈₃ of a circle. This “real” trigonometric unit of angular measurement of a circle is in use by telescopic sight manufacturers using (stadiametric) rangefinding in reticle

[riohog 5,621]

moa is simple 360 deg in a circle keep it simple

[walshie 2,804]

[toxo 160]

My thoughts exactly. I will get on top of it in the end. Let's see if i'm anywhere near.

 

1 MOA = 1 inch roughly at a 100yds, 2inches at 200yds so presumably 1/2 an inch at 50yds.

 

The Vortex scope subtentions are 1/2 and 1 with 1/2 being 2MOA and a full dot being 4MOA

 

Now let's say a bunnie is 15 inches long.

 

The powers that be say if I want the range in yds I multiply the size of the target in inches by 95.5 and then divide by the MOAs that I measure through the scope at the calibration mag which in this case is 16x.

 

So if I see a bunny that measures 4 whole dots through the scope when on 16x that's 16MOA so,

 

15 inches x 95.5 = 1432.5 divided by 16 gives 90yds right?

 

So if 1 click -1/4 MOA or .25MOA @ 100yds, Strelok (don't ask me how) tells me the difference is;

 

5.3 MOA which is 4 inches which is 21 clicks?

 

Please tell me i'm right. I'm guessing that there are so many variable distances that the only way is to make a click chart or ask Strelok each time?

[walshie 2,804]

Wow. i've shot hundreds and hundreds of rabbits with my rimfire and I have no idea what you are talking about. Are you sure you aren't overcomplicating things?

 

What if you come across an especially large or really tiny rabbit? That will put all your calculations to cock.

 

Zero it at your preferred yardage and leave the adjustments alone. Learn the holdovers for different distances by practicing them.

[toxo 160]

Wow. i've shot hundreds and hundreds of rabbits with my rimfire and I have no idea what you are talking about. Are you sure you aren't overcomplicating things?

 

What if you come across an especially large or really tiny rabbit? That will put all your calculations to cock.

 

Zero it at your preferred yardage and leave the adjustments alone. Learn the holdovers for different distances by practicing them.

 

Of course you're right Walshie. Me too but I shoot mostly at night with an Archer add-on which makes rangefinding even more difficult. If you know your perms and the yardages that's great but the above gives enough of an idea to kill that bunnie wherever it is. The night makes it hard to see where and how much you missed by and so so you can take two or three shots and still not get the rabbit.

I'm gradually getting the right gear around me and then I hope I'll get so used to it that all the above won't matter so much. Then I'll be like you guys going WTF???

 

With practice you'll make a card that'll tell you how many clicks up or down but you need that yardage first. When I can afford it I'm gonna get me one of those NV rangefinders.

Edited January 17, 2016 by toxo

[Tremo 138]

Accurate range finding at night is an art in its own right.

 

I use something like the 'Walshie' method myself. I set the mag to one level. I then get to know the size of a rabbits head between the mill dots and how much space it takes up at your preferred zeroing range. Using this mental picture I can then estimate the distances at night. Yes, it is kind of rough, but at these type of distances I find it accurate enough.