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Air Rifle Hunting And Care Tips.


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I had a little problem filling the rifle today. It got to around 150bar and then it started leaking air between the hose thread and AA adaptor. I only screwed the adaptor on hand tight, does it need to be put on with a spanner or should thumb tight be enough?

The airs not leaking out of the adaptor or the rifle, just where the hose attaches to the adaptor.

Just nip it up mate

Nipped it up with a Gerber, worked a treat, cheers mate.

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First tip is to shoot target first ,get to know your gun ,scope and pellets you are using and make sure you can get a group around about 15-20 mm at all distances   Test different pellets and find

Take Davys offer up , one of the best in the game and respected by many

It all worked it's self out! There's a new dive shop opened this week in Salisbury. I went for the middle ground and bought a 7L bottle with all the gubbins for £200. On my way to the dive shop to fi

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Can't go wrong with the Gerber

Tried to contact you few times to day , Holt permission all ok , the lady who turned up in the car reported us to the police and phoned up the owner , but he said she is all ways causing trouble and carry on shooting

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Sounds like a plan, cheers Fox.

I've been having a play around with the rifle, in the back garden. It's probably around 20 yards from firing point to the target, so I thought I'd site the weapon. To start with it was great! Small grouping of around 7-10mm and corrected the sight to get it in the center of the target. I reset the turrets, refilled the air to around 200bar and now the shots are dropping short by around 15-20 mm of my aiming point. No matter how many times I turn the elevation turret it won't go up, even to the point of the elevation turret at its maximum and won't allow me to turn it any more. Any ideas what has gone wrong? The sun was going down at this point and I wondered if the drop in temperature (which was significant) may have an effect, as it does with a normal round? I may be just clutching at straws with that one.

 

Could be a number of things but start with making sure the rifles power is where you want it, is it in the "sweet spot?"

Check the scope mounts and clamps aren't moving. Does the POI change if you adjust downwards?

You may need to shim the rear of the scope to bring the POI within the adjustment of the scope.

However, if you've had it spot on and now it's gone off the boil it suggests either a power drop or scope fault.

If you're testing in the garden I suggest bringing the range down to 15 or 16 yards to zero the scope, that way you will already be close to your ideal secondary zero at about 35 yards when you push the range out a bit.

Regards

Tim

 

Reading through that again you say you filled to 200 bar? The sweet spot normally starts around 170 bar, anything over that and the power can drop, as will the POI.

Try dry firing the rifle until you're down to 150 bar and try again, also, when filling, go by the gauge on the bottle, not the one on the gun. AA gauges are not always accurate.

Cheers gents for the replys.

 

I've just had another bash and dropped the range to around 10 yards. It's still dropping slightly short of the target. I filled it up at 200 and fired down to 150. It's one mil dot short of the point of aim. The windage turret is also pretty much at its max (left) but it's hitting shraight below point of aim. Will this effect the vertical movement if the horizontal is maxed? I didn't know if it restricts it slightly. I think I may need to go along to the range at devises and see what the problem is.

 

I'm assuming that, as I'm firing at 10 yards (length of my garden, I was in work yesterday and shooting in the garden out the back of the office) that as it's hitting one mil dot low, at 15 and 25 yards it should be about right?

 

Also, I hate all this yards and Inch talk! :)

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Shooting higher than the turret can cope with is not a rare thing with air rifles and scopes..

 

Try packing up the rear mount with something like Duct tape or Insulating tape. The way I do it is to make a double thick patch of two piecess of tape over each other. Cut it to fit and adhere all the way around the base of the mount up to the ledge where the screw holes are for the top piece to screw to, or you'll get sideplay. Mount up the scope and get it as perfectly aligned and the reticle verticle as possible, screw on the top-mount and test fire.

 

You will find this will bring your shot much higher than it is set on your reticle with the turret up to its maximum. You can now wind the turret down and it will find zero at a sensible point on the turret dial.

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She's back in the centre with room to spare on the elevation turret. Cheers fellas. 30 cm of aluminium foil consertinered to about 10mm wide and a mm thick, cut to fit the mountings and it worked like a charm.

 

Thanks again!

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So, now that the rifle is up and running and hitting where I aim, I've made an order with A&M for a marksman silencer and am looking at Harris bipods. Do any of you have any preference in bipod size? I was gonna go for the 9-13 in. I measured the distance from the bottom of the rifle stock and the ground (on a flat surface) when in the prone position and its around 11in, so I'm guessing this would be about right.

Also, the area at the front of the S410 isn't very flat, to mount a bipod. Did anyone have trouble fitting one to theirs? I was considering putting it on a pica tinny rail via a mount. I'd like the ability to remove it easily and also somewhere to mount a lamp/ torch, when out at night and not using the bipod. I think it would be easier to mount the rail, rather than the bipod. This will add a little weight! But I'm not overly fussed about that. I'm used to running around with heavier rifles.

 

Thoughts?

Edited by Airborne3
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Airbourne - have you thought about shooting sticks instead of bipods? These don't affect the balance of the gun. I just got one the other week and having some fun with them. The Primos Gen II shockey stick (tripod) is what I went for.

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