Mole Traps In The Frost

[Mr Muddy 141]

Just a thought, is there a reason that the French use the square of round bar as a trigger? It could be that it gives better firing of the trap, as there is less friction where two round surfaces meet compared to a round and flat surface so even if a washer was used it may pay to put a radius on the edge of the washer there-by maintaining a minimum point of contact between the trigger and the trap arms.

 

TC

 

I'm sure you're right about that TC. I find the square trigger also stays off the bottom of the run while I'm pushing the trap down the hole (they are sods for misfiring when you do this), then it sits flush with the earth when I bed the arms into the ground a bit.

I tie the trigger on with a bit of waxed cord, and leave a loop in the other end to anchor the traps.

 

[socks 32,253]

 

I've been watching this thread for a few days. I am based in France and was on here previously under a different name.

 

Just be aware that the Putange traps are like any other type in that the quality differs dependent on the manufacturer. I have bought and used quite a few over the last two years and some are frankly useless. The spring loses its strength and they rust quite quickly. Rust means that the triggers don't slide freely and can prevent the the traps from operating. It is a pain to keep having to rub them down with an abrasive paper or file. I got some from a local hardware shop that are if anything overly strong and do not rust. However, the usual (non-pro) customers complained about them being hard to set and the shop stopped doing them. Bah!

 

If you are serious about making them I would suggest that you forget trying to make them as cheap as here in France which is currently €3.95 (just over three quid) for a pair including triggers and a setting tool, and instead make a more durable product out of tempered stainless wire.

 

As others have said; these are very useful traps and in my opinion knock Traplines into a cocked hat. You can use them under patios, in stony soil, slipped down a molehill shaft like those Dutch traps (I caught one yesterday in that manner) and are great for those surface runs where the mole has just pushed up the turf. If you are getting traps nicked or want to prevent tampering these are just the job. Cut out the clod, lift it out intact, place the traps, replace the clod and mark with spray paint or a bit of plastic pushed into the turf. The downside is that they are more fiddly to set in deeper tunnels. Best thing is that they are light and compact to carry and are as cheap as chips.

 

Trap on its way to me so we can take a look at quaility etc (thanks mr muddy) but we are trying a high tensile steel wire made in sheffield (my home city) so it should withstand a little harsh weather,also a galvenised high strengh wire and see which will work best. We are going to look at the washer for the trigger ( thanks old trap collector) connected with a fine wire so not to loose it. As for the setting tool that could be work in progress but we have several small tool makers locally that will be able to help.

 

iwm

I don't understand the need for a setting tool ... I set all mine by hand with no problems at all ........

[iwm 71]

 

 

I've been watching this thread for a few days. I am based in France and was on here previously under a different name.

 

Just be aware that the Putange traps are like any other type in that the quality differs dependent on the manufacturer. I have bought and used quite a few over the last two years and some are frankly useless. The spring loses its strength and they rust quite quickly. Rust means that the triggers don't slide freely and can prevent the the traps from operating. It is a pain to keep having to rub them down with an abrasive paper or file. I got some from a local hardware shop that are if anything overly strong and do not rust. However, the usual (non-pro) customers complained about them being hard to set and the shop stopped doing them. Bah!

 

If you are serious about making them I would suggest that you forget trying to make them as cheap as here in France which is currently €3.95 (just over three quid) for a pair including triggers and a setting tool, and instead make a more durable product out of tempered stainless wire.

 

As others have said; these are very useful traps and in my opinion knock Traplines into a cocked hat. You can use them under patios, in stony soil, slipped down a molehill shaft like those Dutch traps (I caught one yesterday in that manner) and are great for those surface runs where the mole has just pushed up the turf. If you are getting traps nicked or want to prevent tampering these are just the job. Cut out the clod, lift it out intact, place the traps, replace the clod and mark with spray paint or a bit of plastic pushed into the turf. The downside is that they are more fiddly to set in deeper tunnels. Best thing is that they are light and compact to carry and are as cheap as chips.

Trap on its way to me so we can take a look at quaility etc (thanks mr muddy) but we are trying a high tensile steel wire made in sheffield (my home city) so it should withstand a little harsh weather,also a galvenised high strengh wire and see which will work best. We are going to look at the washer for the trigger ( thanks old trap collector) connected with a fine wire so not to loose it. As for the setting tool that could be work in progress but we have several small tool makers locally that will be able to help

 

iwm

I don't understand the need for a setting tool ... I set all mine by hand with no problems at all ........

 

I agree the setting tool would be a pain as it will slow you down when setting large numbers of traps if you can set them by hand all well and good.(never used one of these traps)

Its going to be trial and error for the first few traps but we can only give it a go.

iwm

[talpa 55]

For attaching the trigger the wire and ferrules used for bird spring wire proofing would be ideal, set at the correct length for humane catch it would speed setting and help reliable firing and catch cleanly around chest behind shoulders.

The setting tool shouldn't be too much of a pain if you work out your system for setting and have it on a short wire/string from you bucket/bag/belt(which ever works for you) then it is always to hand as you kneel to set.

I would be interested in getting some to try out too.

T

[torchey 1,202]

 

 

I've been watching this thread for a few days. I am based in France and was on here previously under a different name.

 

Just be aware that the Putange traps are like any other type in that the quality differs dependent on the manufacturer. I have bought and used quite a few over the last two years and some are frankly useless. The spring loses its strength and they rust quite quickly. Rust means that the triggers don't slide freely and can prevent the the traps from operating. It is a pain to keep having to rub them down with an abrasive paper or file. I got some from a local hardware shop that are if anything overly strong and do not rust. However, the usual (non-pro) customers complained about them being hard to set and the shop stopped doing them. Bah!

 

If you are serious about making them I would suggest that you forget trying to make them as cheap as here in France which is currently €3.95 (just over three quid) for a pair including triggers and a setting tool, and instead make a more durable product out of tempered stainless wire.

 

As others have said; these are very useful traps and in my opinion knock Traplines into a cocked hat. You can use them under patios, in stony soil, slipped down a molehill shaft like those Dutch traps (I caught one yesterday in that manner) and are great for those surface runs where the mole has just pushed up the turf. If you are getting traps nicked or want to prevent tampering these are just the job. Cut out the clod, lift it out intact, place the traps, replace the clod and mark with spray paint or a bit of plastic pushed into the turf. The downside is that they are more fiddly to set in deeper tunnels. Best thing is that they are light and compact to carry and are as cheap as chips.

Trap on its way to me so we can take a look at quaility etc (thanks mr muddy) but we are trying a high tensile steel wire made in sheffield (my home city) so it should withstand a little harsh weather,also a galvenised high strengh wire and see which will work best. We are going to look at the washer for the trigger ( thanks old trap collector) connected with a fine wire so not to loose it. As for the setting tool that could be work in progress but we have several small tool makers locally that will be able to help.

 

iwm

I don't understand the need for a setting tool ... I set all mine by hand with no problems at all ........

 

The ones i use you wouldnt to be setting by hand,

[socks 32,253]

 

 

 

I've been watching this thread for a few days. I am based in France and was on here previously under a different name.

 

Just be aware that the Putange traps are like any other type in that the quality differs dependent on the manufacturer. I have bought and used quite a few over the last two years and some are frankly useless. The spring loses its strength and they rust quite quickly. Rust means that the triggers don't slide freely and can prevent the the traps from operating. It is a pain to keep having to rub them down with an abrasive paper or file. I got some from a local hardware shop that are if anything overly strong and do not rust. However, the usual (non-pro) customers complained about them being hard to set and the shop stopped doing them. Bah!

 

If you are serious about making them I would suggest that you forget trying to make them as cheap as here in France which is currently €3.95 (just over three quid) for a pair including triggers and a setting tool, and instead make a more durable product out of tempered stainless wire.

 

As others have said; these are very useful traps and in my opinion knock Traplines into a cocked hat. You can use them under patios, in stony soil, slipped down a molehill shaft like those Dutch traps (I caught one yesterday in that manner) and are great for those surface runs where the mole has just pushed up the turf. If you are getting traps nicked or want to prevent tampering these are just the job. Cut out the clod, lift it out intact, place the traps, replace the clod and mark with spray paint or a bit of plastic pushed into the turf. The downside is that they are more fiddly to set in deeper tunnels. Best thing is that they are light and compact to carry and are as cheap as chips.

Trap on its way to me so we can take a look at quaility etc (thanks mr muddy) but we are trying a high tensile steel wire made in sheffield (my home city) so it should withstand a little harsh weather,also a galvenised high strengh wire and see which will work best. We are going to look at the washer for the trigger ( thanks old trap collector) connected with a fine wire so not to loose it. As for the setting tool that could be work in progress but we have several small tool makers locally that will be able to help.

 

iwm

I don't understand the need for a setting tool ... I set all mine by hand with no problems at all ........

The ones i use you wouldnt to be setting by hand,

What ones are you using mate ??? ......

[torchey 1,202]

The french ones , i can set em using another trap but i,ve tried by hand and its a f***ing mission

[socks 32,253]

What's the name of them ... Have you got a picture .......

[torchey 1,202]

The same ones we,ve been talking about, muddys picture..

[socks 32,253]

The same ones we,ve been talking about, muddys picture..

They are the same as the ones I use ??? I have no problem setting them by hand ??? ........

[Nicepix 5,650]

As I said in my first post they are not all the same. Some are made from thinner and / or weaker round bar than others and rust far more quickly. Some of the ones I've bought could be set by hand, but the ones I now use would be impossible to set by hand. They occasionally cross over and it needs a trowel or screwdriver to lever them back in position. I can't even set them using the lever tool. It needs the pliers type tool.

 

There are different types of design too. The "Putange Main" is designed to be set by hand, but are much weaker and more bulky.......

The best way to attach the trigger is via a piece of twine as the others have shown. If you try to use metal you will run into two possible problems. Firstly the prongs might cut the metal if the trap fires when setting. Secondly, the weight of a chain or wire could drag on the bottom of the tunnel and cause the trigger to displace during the setting process. I had some with thin bath plug type chains that were a pig to set so I replaced them with braid fishing line.

 

These things have worked for decades so why mess about with a successful design?

[Frontbum 76]

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Edited February 6, 2015 by Frontbum

[3175darren 1,093]

Its good to hear about other traps, it keeps you thinking outside the box,I have the nomol equivalent and have caught a fare few moles with them,but tend to stick with the traditional tunnel trap of talpex, I like this sort of discussion,

[torchey 1,202]

If your going to make spare rings its handy to make a few slightly bigger so they open up a bit wider..

[torchey 1,202]

Its good to hear about other traps, it keeps you thinking outside the box,I have the nomol equivalent and have caught a fare few moles with them,but tend to stick with the traditional tunnel trap of talpex, I like this sort of discussion,

 

In this weather though your not going to get many hours work with a talpex..